Tyimo,
There is no best material to build a box from, but I would suggest that only test boxes be made from OSB. It's not a very sturdy board and tends to have a swelling problem at the cuts. Sealing is also difficult.
Besides I only see it in 7/16" or about 12mm thicknesses here. Too thin for most applications. If it's being used for diy, then it must be they can't afford or don't have access to better materials.
What are you planning to build?
Cal
There is no best material to build a box from, but I would suggest that only test boxes be made from OSB. It's not a very sturdy board and tends to have a swelling problem at the cuts. Sealing is also difficult.
Besides I only see it in 7/16" or about 12mm thicknesses here. Too thin for most applications. If it's being used for diy, then it must be they can't afford or don't have access to better materials.
What are you planning to build?
Cal
Is this really oriented strand board? Available in those thicknesses?
If so why not get a piece of the 21 mm, make sure it is well braced including corner blocking and let us know what you think. It may be fine and it's not too expensive. I would still worry about the swelling though as it does seem tough to seal.
Cal
If so why not get a piece of the 21 mm, make sure it is well braced including corner blocking and let us know what you think. It may be fine and it's not too expensive. I would still worry about the swelling though as it does seem tough to seal.
Cal
Greets!
Ideally, speakers should be constructed with a material that either resonates above or below its passband. If this isn't practical, then greater rigidity (its MOE spec) requires less damping due to acoustic energy decreasing with increasing frequency. The OSB available near me would have to be ~2.44" thick to match 19mm Baltic Birch's MOE, so totally unsuitable for typical alignments unless it's a built-in IMO.
That said, a highly underdamped (resonant) alignment can benefit from using such a lossy material, so it may work fine if you can keep it airtight and don't create too many 'hot spots' such as occurs with a lot of bracing or horn folds. Frankly though, having tried this, I find them too 'dead' sounding unless designed with theoretically excessive gain, which isn't the case with every on-line published BLH design I've reverse engineered.
As always though, YMMV.
GM
Ideally, speakers should be constructed with a material that either resonates above or below its passband. If this isn't practical, then greater rigidity (its MOE spec) requires less damping due to acoustic energy decreasing with increasing frequency. The OSB available near me would have to be ~2.44" thick to match 19mm Baltic Birch's MOE, so totally unsuitable for typical alignments unless it's a built-in IMO.
That said, a highly underdamped (resonant) alignment can benefit from using such a lossy material, so it may work fine if you can keep it airtight and don't create too many 'hot spots' such as occurs with a lot of bracing or horn folds. Frankly though, having tried this, I find them too 'dead' sounding unless designed with theoretically excessive gain, which isn't the case with every on-line published BLH design I've reverse engineered.
As always though, YMMV.
GM
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