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Old 16th October 2005, 01:39 AM   #11
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For what it's worth, I *hate* orbital sanders for this kind of work. I don't like to use them past the glazing & spot putty phase (right before sealer/primer). [Caveat again - automotive experience only!]

Can you get it off with a sanding block (not just free paper - invest five bucks in automotive paint aisle at Crappy Tire) and 125 grit?

If it's really high, you might be able to cheat-start with a sharp knife.

Wes
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Old 16th October 2005, 01:43 AM   #12
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PS - metal polish may actually damage your finish. I don't know Mibro, but Brasso would probably kill it. Metal polish often contains de-oxidization compounds.

I would strong recommend buying the 3M stuff. 3M Fine Cut Rubbing Compound. The easiest place to get it is WalMart (Crappy Tire doesn't carry it). Of course, if you live in Vancouver, Wally World is not an option. Chumps!

Wes
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Old 16th October 2005, 02:05 AM   #13
pjpoes is offline pjpoes  United States
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yes you get brush strokes using a brush, but thats ok, you use sandpaper to remove them. Dont try and get it perfect with a brush, that is impossible.

I find you can use high grades of paper, like 400+ for your smooth sanding if using an orbital because you have the aid of a machine, makes it quicker. You need to take your time and be careful throughout the sanding and polishing stages, as you dont want to remove too much in any area, or burn any areas.

Most everything that everyone else mentioned is also good advice, especially that of the car finishing, as its not that different. The biggest difference is that poly is not as hard as car paint.
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Old 16th October 2005, 03:37 AM   #14
jarros is offline jarros  Canada
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Sounds great. I should be able to sand it down enough with my sanding block. I'm getting real tired of sanding by now, but I'd rather have it done right than ruin it by using a powered sander after I've come this far I'll also go and pick up the 3M Rubbing compound so I don't have to take any chances with the Mibro stuff.

I think I've got a good idea of what I need to do now. Thanks again for all the help, and I'll be sure to let you know how it all turns out!

Jared
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Old 16th October 2005, 04:54 AM   #15
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Sorry to join this party so late but on future projects I'd recommend prepping with a good quality lacquer based sanding sealer before applying color or poly. I like the Deft brand.

I make a lot of things with veneers, veneered plywood and hardwoods and sanding sealer is well worth it. It fills the pores very quickly and doesn't raise the grain like some other finishes do. On a tight grained wood like maple I usually finish sanding at about 220/240. Then a coat of sanding sealer. I'll sand that at 320/400. What I look for is a uniform matte finish at this point. Anything still glossy is below the sanded surface. If I see this I repeat the sealer/sanding. Open pore woods like oak will take a few more coats if you're going for a 'glass' surface.

The good thing about lacquer is that you can sand in minutes if you spray and in about 30 minutes if you brush it on. The other nice thing about a lacquer base is that it accepts subsequent finishes like enamels and polys without any problem. If you're staining something though you need to apply stain before the sealer.

I've tried the water borne sealers and have been disappointed.

One other tip that prevents heartache is to really clean the surface after sanding. I'm fortunate to have a compressor so I blow off the surface and then vacuum before applying the next coat. Its amazing how a little dust particle will make itself known to you when it all dries. Especially if you're a perfectionist which I bet you are.

Lastly, except for your disappointment in the gloss over black finish its really beautiful work!
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Old 16th October 2005, 05:04 AM   #16
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Hey, Saabie;

Interesting comments. Sounds like sanding sealer takes the place of glazing putty in automotive work -- gets rid of the little tiny imperfections so that you're starting with a smooth surface.

Is the sealer you're talking about transparent?

Wes
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Old 16th October 2005, 11:42 AM   #17
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spraying, but the sanding and rubbing compound stages are pretty similar.

The final result is probably what you're after.
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Old 16th October 2005, 04:15 PM   #18
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Wes -

Yes, it dries clear.


Mike
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