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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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This is a newbie question. This is my first attempt to design a pair speakers. I've used SW to measure the T/S parameters, including Vas measurement using delta-compliance method. I'm now modelling the box using Unibox, and I have a question about what final low-end response to go for.
I want this box for music, not HT, and I don't want "flat till 20Hz". Even then, my drivers have an Fs of 42Hz, which is higher than what I'd like to work with. In a vented enclosure, if I tried getting a maximally flat alignment, I was getting the knee of the curve at a fairly high frequency. So I tried lowering the Vb, and I am getting a very shallow drooping curve, followed by a knee at a much lower frequency. To my (totally inexperienced) eye, this gradual droop followed by the knee seems like a better alignment than a flat graph, because I expect that room reinforcement will neutralise the gradual droop very well. I'm also going to have a downward-firing port about two inches from the floor, so the low freqs will get amplified even more because of the floor, I believe. Here is the graph Unibox is giving me. See the high F3 but the low knee point: ![]() The impedance graph looks like this: ![]() Is this gradual droop a good idea? It's not possible that I'm the first person who's tried this, though I couldn't find any mention of this thing in Dickason 5/ed. (In fact, Dickason's entire approach to vented box design seems anachronistic after using unified box modelling software.) Can I simply keep lowering the Vb arbitrarily like this in Unibox? Other than cone excursion, is there any limit to how low I can set Vb? Any comments and feedback will be really useful. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: loughborough/ rochester
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i have used a similar approach when i made my enclosures for a vifa pl18- used a slightly larger box tuned a few hz lower than the "ideal" max flat response, as they were going to be used in a fairly small room. They sound great, but you have to keep an eye on the group delay and phase plots, as by lowering the tuning frequency the group delay will increase, making the bass sound slow and muddled. Im not sure what figures unibox gives, but winisd can be used to give an idea of the group delay figures. Basically, you want the curve to be as flat and low as possible for the tightest bass.
I think- if im wrong correct me guys |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Editor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
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Dear Mr Pip,
I designed my Basszilla bass box to have this "droopiness" I think they call it "an overdamped alignment" Its supposed to minimize some of the supposed negatives of a bass reflex, and also match room bass lift as you mentioned. The bass is tight tight tight - whatever that means. I like it a lot, but my bass driver- an obscure JBL 15" is already highly damped already electro- magnetically. Also, I realized that if I add up all the spaces directly connected to my listening room, it is quite a bit bigger than I thought. Also, if I turn up the bass (its bi-amped) the upper bass gets excessive before the lower. Sooooo lately I have been thinking of shortening the port tube to try to lessen the droopinesss a bit to see if I like it with a bit more lower bass. Tragically, due to a construction disaster I was forced to glue the port tubes in place, which is going to make the experiment difficult and non-reversable. So: I recommend that you make the port removable and/or adjustable so you can then tune it by ear to the room. Remember. the port doesn't even have to be in the box, it can stick out into the air at first if that's easier for initial experiments. In this case the volume might change a bit if you later put the port back into the box, but boxes realy aren't THAT touchy and you could easily adjust for that after getting close. Perhaps its best to use PVC tube for the port because its cheap, and a consistant diameter and have it friction fit into a hole in the box, so it is easy to remove. After a few experiments, you will have a collection of lengths to play with! It wouldn't be a bad feature to retain some adjustability to tune them to your new bigger living area in Goa when you move... |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: flyover country
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You are correct wrt group delay. However, there is a qualifier to that. For minimum phase high pass filters, once you get, say, an octave or more above the highest non-dc pole or zero, the group delay decreases by 40db per decade regardless of filter order, so lowering the tuning frequency can actually *decrease* group delay an octave or more above the tuning frequency depending on the tuning Q, even though it will be greater at and below the tuning frequency. Once you start tuning below 40hz, the group delay tradeoff seems to me to become increasingly satisfactory with most music.
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#5 | |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
__________________
www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: loughborough/ rochester
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I see, ive re-read that bit of the loudspeaker design cookbook and understand it a bit better now.
As a side note, I also found that the simulations on loudspeaker cad programs gave me a port length that was too long to give the desired tuning frequency. Although i was meant to use a 19cm port for a tuning of 45hz, after making an impedance curve the port was reduced to 15cm to give the 45hz- as given, it was around 40hz and the bass was seriously lacking in umph, sounding too rolled off. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Editor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
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Quote:
My problem too. We are certainly technical here I mean my SPEAKER has "excessive droopiness" I'm fine , really
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#8 | ||||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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Quote:
As usual, it's a pleasure hearing from you. Quote:
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I will use this method and prepare a few identical square pieces, each with a piece of tube of a specific length. This will let me switch tubes and try different lengths. I find it hard to conceive of a port tuning approach without this sort of well-sealed but removable tube. I can apply this approach to the rear or the bottom of the box... it's the front-firing port which is hard to do this way, for cosmetic reasons. Quote:
Who says we audio geeks can't create winged words of beauty, even if it's all ****? Variac, your Basszilla is doomed to complete obsolescence. You are not using a G2Si, which, in another thread the Gooroos have just told me is about the only tweeter worth using for high-xo uses. Suffer. Regret and suffer. |
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#9 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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Quote:
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Also, let me clarify that I screwed up in my opening post. I have written in that post: Quote:
So, to get the question right, is there no limit to how low I can set the Fb? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Sydney
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