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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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I have a pair of JX92S drivers sitting around for two years in small ported boxes. I now want to try using them as wide-range midranges (in a manner planet10 keeps advocating). I therefore want help on what tweeter to use for these?
I guess I'll be crossing the tweeters at something between 4K and 6K, 2nd or 4th order. (I'd usually prefer 4th order, but because the xo freq is so high, I may use lower order if I go with a dome. For planars/ribbons, I don't know.) What tweeter should I use? If the xo freq was lower, I'd use a Seas TBFC/G or a Vifa D25AG35: affordable and clean. Is there anything better than these given my xo freq is much higher this time? The parameters I'd look for will include:
My budget for each tweeter is $100, excluding shipping. I have zero experience with planars/ribbons... I've probably never even seen them. I have read that they are great if the xo freq can be highish, so I was wondering whether any of them will be your recommendation? If I don't get a clear indication from you guys, I'll fall back on the Vifa or the Seas domes I mentioned earler. One thing is clear: I'm pretty sure I'll prefer the sound of the JX92S with a good tweeter + a good xo compared to a plain single-driver JX92S. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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The key thing is that all drivers have faults and you can almost always hear the characteristic sound of the material of the moving mass. If you change from one material to another it tends to highlight the crossover. Thus, if you have an aluminium cone midrange, it would be best matched to an aluminium tweeter. Aluminium dome tweeters tend not to be very good (and not in the same league as the JX92s), so the best choice is a ribbon tweeter. I have heard JX92s with the Fountek ribbon crossed over at 7kHz and it sounded good.
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: The People's Republic of Maryland
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Just follow these plans:
http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/JX92SG2siDesignPak.pdf |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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Quote:
I wonder what the distortion and ETC readings are like for these ribbons? |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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I got one suggestion which pointed me towards ribbons in general, and another to a specific design which used the G2Si. Both were very useful pointers, but is there absolutely no other opinion on this subject from anyone else?
Specifically, are we all of one mind that there's absolutely no tweeter better than the G2Si for high-xo situations, at $100 or less? Thanks for your help. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Dallas, TX
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Quote:
--Chris |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Yes, despite them often being marketed as "ribbons" the plastic film with thin conductors and no transformer is a different beast entirely. Many years ago, Wharfedale osld a headphone using this principle as referred to it as "isodynamic" because the drive was applied over (nearly) all the surface. I think that was the right name for a technology that is essentially a flexible PCB held in front of some magnets. By contrast, a true ribbon has a corrugated aluminium foil suspended between the pole pieces of a powerful magnet. The difference is that the true ribbon has a lower moving mass and operates in a constant magnetic field, whereas the isodynamic drver has a necessarily higher mass and operates rather nonlinearly because the field is applied from the back only. It's a bit like single-sided electrostatics vs proper push-pull...
Go for the true ribbon, You won't regret it. (I bought a pair of ESG1 to go with my JX92s but haven't got around to making the boxes yet.)
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Mumbai, India
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Quote:
BTW, what's the ESG1, and where is it sold? And what about woofers? I want to take the JX92S down not below 100Hz. I want to xo this driver to one or two woofers. Will the Dayton RS 10" woofer (not the subwoofer but the woofer) used in one push-push pair per side be a good idea? I'll need four woofers, but the resultant sound, perhaps in a sealed enclosure, may be good. Any other ideas of woofers to mate with the JX? (No, I don't want to use the 6" Jordan woofer.) |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tennessee
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tcpip,
Answers below: 1. BTW, what's the ESG1, and where is it sold? E-speakers (a supplier of Aurum Cantus products in the US) designated the A-C ribbons by the ES leading initials a few years ago. I think that they have gone away from that designation at this time. Hence, the A-C G2si was designated as the ESG2si and such. You'll want the G2si for my design which was referenced earlier. 2. And what about woofers? I want to take the JX92S down not below 100Hz. I want to xo this driver to one or two woofers. Will the Dayton RS 10" woofer (not the subwoofer but the woofer) used in one push-push pair per side be a good idea? I'll need four woofers, but the resultant sound, perhaps in a sealed enclosure, may be good. Any other ideas of woofers to mate with the JX? (No, I don't want to use the 6" Jordan woofer.) I suggest that you build the JX92S/A-C G2si mini-monitors exactly as I outlined in my write-up. Hence, the box size would be a 7 to 9 liters (0.25 to 0.3 cu. ft) volume. As I mention in the write-up you can seal their boxes and get excellent performance to below 100 Hz which would be ideal for your needs. Alternately, build just add the port tube but stuff it with so effectively you have a sealed box and you'll have the same performance. You can use the new Parts Express Dayton RS line of woofers with the aluminum cones (these are actually are subwoofers). If you have a small or medium sized room, likely one woofer per side would be adequate but if you want more bass you can go with 2 per side. I like the tight bass that you get from sealed subwoofers. Depending on room gain you may wish to boost the bass to extend the low end a bit to your taste. Of course you will need crossover(s) and amplifier(s) (plate amps?) for these woofers. I would cross over at 100 Hz with a 24 dB/octave low pass on the woofers and a 12 dB/octave high pass on the satellites. Thus, you'll have acoustically a 4th order crossover. Other woofers/subwoofers can likely be used if they can deliver as desired for a sealed enclosure. Jim |
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