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Old 28th September 2005, 03:33 AM   #1
blbarth is offline blbarth  United States
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Default speaker selector switch

Sorry if this is the wrong section...

I know this is easy for most of you, but I'm a beginner. I'm trying to find some kind of schematic for a 4-way speaker selector switch so that I can incorporate it into an automation project using a computer. I cannot find anything even after an extensive internet search and a search of this forum.

Can anyone help, or point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!
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Old 28th September 2005, 05:12 AM   #2
DC Dave is offline DC Dave  United States
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I don't have a schematic for you, but what you want to do does not sound too hard. I don't know about connecting it to the computer though.

One way to do it would be to use relays to select the speakers. If you want to 4-way selector that would mean switching 8 speakers two at a time, right? So you could use 8 double pole latching relays and use the PC to select which ones to latch and release. To select pair 1 the PC would send a signal (5 or 12 volts) to latch the two relays for pair 1 and at the same time send a signal to release or unlatch the relays for pairs 2, 3, and 4. Just need to make sure the relays can handle the current going through them from the amplifier.

This does not take into account speaker impedences, so only one pair can be driven without increasing the load to the amplifier.
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Old 29th September 2005, 02:38 AM   #3
blbarth is offline blbarth  United States
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Thanks for the reply. That is exactly what I had in mind for the control section.

The problem is I want to be able to use from 1 to all 4 of the speakers at any one time. The switch I am currently using (just a standard radio shack variety) will allow me to do that. My (cheap) amplifier doesn't seem to mind, so I assume (perhaps incorrectly) that it is doing the impedance matching already. That is the part of the circuit I'm not sure how to build and cannot find anywhere.
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Old 12th January 2006, 10:52 PM   #4
blbarth is offline blbarth  United States
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Still searching the net for any help on this. Anyone have suggestions on how to build an impedance matching speaker selector switch (plan to control it with a pic microcontroller and relays).
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Old 22nd January 2006, 02:07 AM   #5
MCPete is offline MCPete  United States
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What is the part number of the switch from Radio Shack (assuming that it is currently being sold)? If this selector switch allows you to operate 4 pairs of speakers simultaneously, my guess would be that either the selector is inserting resistance in series with the speakers (not likely) or making a parallel connection of two series-connected speakers in each channel.

Are the speakers that you are using raw drivers or speaker systems including passive crossover networks?
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Old 20th December 2015, 05:56 AM   #6
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Digging up a relevant thread for this current project (info down the post)...

The Radio Shack type box that the OP is using ADDS RESISTANCE to each of the additional switched on speaker pairs to keep the impedance minimum in check for most amplifiers. This affects more than sensitivity. It affects bass alignment, etc.

Some of these switches use inductive impedance matching autoformers that affect more than just impedance. I think the Rat-Shack box is just that of resistive loading.

To keep speaker performance in optimal condition, and to keep the amplifier happy; I recommend a pro-amplifier or high-current home-amp that is stable to 2 ohms or lower, or the OP will not be able to have 4 pairs in parallel as he is possibly intending.

In that mindset, the preliminary project as I'm presenting herein has the possibility to work as the OP intends, if the 2PDT switch is replaced by 4 individual SPST relay-activation switches, and adds 2 identical relays. BUT- the LED indicator circuit will need a rework; Subbing in some 12V LED assemblies per switch will sub in, and the 5V PSU section will not be needed. Again- this is doable IF the amp is 2 ohm stable for 4x 8 ohm speaker pairs, and 1 ohm stable for 4x 4 ohm speaker pairs. Otherwise, I would not recommend this course of action.

Here is where I'm at thus far:

Click the image to open in full size.

LEDs should count 1-2-3 when switching pairs. Muting in between to hot-swap pairs without killing/shutting-off the amp. This is for one pair in operation per selection.

I think it looks solid,
Wolf
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Old 23rd December 2015, 03:48 AM   #7
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Update:
Click the image to open in full size.

Added capacitor "to absorb energy from the relays. This might help protect the power supply, but it probably isn’t needed. Keep contact resistance low. If the coil resistance of the relays is below 75 ohms you might want to consider a beefier power supply" - Neil Davis

I still have one more opinion pending...
Wolf
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Old 9th February 2016, 07:19 PM   #8
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Just wanted to post where I'm at currently with this project.
I have a majority of it assembled, but no pictures yet.

Here is what is likely the final schematic:
Click the image to open in full size.

I added the MOVs just because I have them. They won't hurt, but won't necessarily be required.

Pictures to come,
Wolf
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Old 12th February 2016, 07:19 AM   #9
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If I could edit the graphic above I would. I deleted the picture from the photobucket because I have the MOVs in the wrong place. Yet- it still shows up in the previous post.

Anyway- the MOV's are to be placed across the outs on the unit. IE- across each +/- speaker out terminal pair.

I'll update and repost the correct picture. Sorry for the confusion,
Wolf

EDIT:
Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by wolf_teeth; 12th February 2016 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 15th February 2016, 07:54 PM   #10
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Well- Initially, the device worked as expected. I got everything wired up this evening.

Then- the 5V LEDs started to die one by one over the course of about a half hour. I guess I might need current limiting resistors EVEN WITH the 5VDC supply. I didn't know if these 5VDC LEDs had resistance pre-added or not.
I checked the voltage at the point of the LEDs, and it still has supply at the correct voltage at each point.

Back panel loaded:
Click the image to open in full size.

Rear of rear plate:
Click the image to open in full size.

You can see the CR filters down the middle of the binding posts from the input to the negative buss. Then the MOVs are attached across the +/- binding post leads atop of the CR filters. All ins and outs are paralleled into the Speakons. Glue and screws were used in mounting virtually all components on the back panel.

Switched the 6 row to a pair of 4-circuits (only 6 are connected) to get them to fit.
Click the image to open in full size.

Wired input side to relays, Red is right, Black is left:
Click the image to open in full size.

Wired out outs from relays and ins from relays to the in/out board:
Click the image to open in full size.

Rear panel Installed:
Click the image to open in full size.

Wired up LEDs and switch:
Click the image to open in full size.

Ready to close the lid:
Click the image to open in full size.

Here are some pics before the LEDs died...

Power:
Click the image to open in full size.

Relay pair out 1:
Click the image to open in full size.

Relay pair out 2:
Click the image to open in full size.

Relay pair out 3:
Click the image to open in full size.

Oh- and I did check that the relays worked for the right jacks. I used a voltmeter for continuity on the ins and a jumper for the outs for both channels and everything works properly.

Proper resistance for the 5V LED should be 4-10 ohms, and 60-180 for a 3.3V LED equivalent, depending on desired brightness.

Last and final updated graphic below. Resistor shown is 1W.:

Click the image to open in full size.

Thanks for looking!
Wolf
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