Kinda sorta but not really related to the Thor's.
I use mine for HT as well as stereo listening. I had a Klipsh center channel speaker that I never really did like and the Odin on it's side is just asking for trouble. So, I bought the Seas coaxial and built a vented cabinet for it and it matches the sound from the Thor's Very, Very well. I am happy with the sound quality and the voices are now clear for my aging ears. The Wifee can hear men's voices better too. Everyone's a winner.
The center speaker is the same as the one MJL21193 built, only his has a curved face to match his floor standers. Nice job BTW
It's a Tony Gee USB MKII design. Looks just like his only I put the ports on the back.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble Homemade Hifi_USB Mk-II_copy.pdf
Ron
I use mine for HT as well as stereo listening. I had a Klipsh center channel speaker that I never really did like and the Odin on it's side is just asking for trouble. So, I bought the Seas coaxial and built a vented cabinet for it and it matches the sound from the Thor's Very, Very well. I am happy with the sound quality and the voices are now clear for my aging ears. The Wifee can hear men's voices better too. Everyone's a winner.
The center speaker is the same as the one MJL21193 built, only his has a curved face to match his floor standers. Nice job BTW
It's a Tony Gee USB MKII design. Looks just like his only I put the ports on the back.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/download/Humble Homemade Hifi_USB Mk-II_copy.pdf
Ron
I'm some what a year late, but I thought of re-opening this thread.
I'm about to start a "Small Thor" build, and as everyone else, I have a few questions.
The design drawing says 19mm mdf all around, including internal bracings.
Wouldn't this result in a slight pitch fork effect? Or is it a desirable effect, kept in shape by the bracings?
The original Thor drawings showed a baffle and back wall out of 25mm MDF. While the side walls, floor and top would be 19mm MDF. Would that have any negative effect on the Small Thor design?
I'm about to start a "Small Thor" build, and as everyone else, I have a few questions.
The design drawing says 19mm mdf all around, including internal bracings.
Wouldn't this result in a slight pitch fork effect? Or is it a desirable effect, kept in shape by the bracings?
The original Thor drawings showed a baffle and back wall out of 25mm MDF. While the side walls, floor and top would be 19mm MDF. Would that have any negative effect on the Small Thor design?
Started Fat Thor Today
Hi, as the title says I started to build my fat thor today . I have run into an issue with the drawings.
Initially I interpreted the drawing below as having the front panel screwed to the front edge of the side panels. This would make the top and bottom panels fit inside the front and side panels. Problem is when I dry assembled it to fit the
middle baffle board none of the math was right. So I made adjustments so the front panel fit inside the side panels and then the math for the baffle board was right.
Then I found the picture below and this person has put the front panel screwed to the ends of the side panel . So which is it. This picture looks like the front panel is wider than 9 inches.?
Hopefullly this is clear. Please point me in the right direction
Richard
Hi, as the title says I started to build my fat thor today . I have run into an issue with the drawings.
Initially I interpreted the drawing below as having the front panel screwed to the front edge of the side panels. This would make the top and bottom panels fit inside the front and side panels. Problem is when I dry assembled it to fit the
middle baffle board none of the math was right. So I made adjustments so the front panel fit inside the side panels and then the math for the baffle board was right.
Then I found the picture below and this person has put the front panel screwed to the ends of the side panel . So which is it. This picture looks like the front panel is wider than 9 inches.?
Hopefullly this is clear. Please point me in the right direction
Richard
New Small Thor Build
I am also beginning a new 'Small Thor' build and i'm overwhelmed by the amount of dedication and time people have put into the thor designs.
Scottmoose and planet10 big respect for all the time and effort you have put in and to evenyone else thanks for all the input there really is a wealth of information on here, speakers of all kinds!
So I have a few questions regarding the small thor.
I am a furniture designer maker originally from the UK (now in Australia), I don't know much about the physics of speakers but I've been asked to make a pair for a friend.
Firstly I am unsure which kit with which crossover to buy? I know madisound do one but is it the best for the small thor design? Also is there anyone on here that does a kit? I would be very happy to support the community and even pay a few extra $ to support the 'cause'
I also have a few questions regarding the cabinetry. Things like where the crossover is mounted, is it better to use MDF over PLY when they are going to be painted anyway, and does it matter how the joinery is achieved. i.e rabbeting, domino, mitred. Does the speaker box need re-enforcing or with good joinery can the same quality speaker be achieved with 19mm all round and the bracing slotted into grooves. Is it better to have the port on the front or the back. I have lots more but I don't want to clog up the thread!
I am a prefectionist with all the things I make so these will be no exception. I appologise if I am asking questions that have already been answered, I have spent many hours reading through the posts on here and i'm looking for info specific to my build.
I plan on doing a detailed 3D drawing and a photo post of the progress here once the project gets underway. One drawn up my I will upload my drawings free for personal use if I can't do that e-mail me and I will happily send you them.
Many Thanks, James
I am also beginning a new 'Small Thor' build and i'm overwhelmed by the amount of dedication and time people have put into the thor designs.
Scottmoose and planet10 big respect for all the time and effort you have put in and to evenyone else thanks for all the input there really is a wealth of information on here, speakers of all kinds!
So I have a few questions regarding the small thor.
I am a furniture designer maker originally from the UK (now in Australia), I don't know much about the physics of speakers but I've been asked to make a pair for a friend.
Firstly I am unsure which kit with which crossover to buy? I know madisound do one but is it the best for the small thor design? Also is there anyone on here that does a kit? I would be very happy to support the community and even pay a few extra $ to support the 'cause'
I also have a few questions regarding the cabinetry. Things like where the crossover is mounted, is it better to use MDF over PLY when they are going to be painted anyway, and does it matter how the joinery is achieved. i.e rabbeting, domino, mitred. Does the speaker box need re-enforcing or with good joinery can the same quality speaker be achieved with 19mm all round and the bracing slotted into grooves. Is it better to have the port on the front or the back. I have lots more but I don't want to clog up the thread!
I am a prefectionist with all the things I make so these will be no exception. I appologise if I am asking questions that have already been answered, I have spent many hours reading through the posts on here and i'm looking for info specific to my build.
I plan on doing a detailed 3D drawing and a photo post of the progress here once the project gets underway. One drawn up my I will upload my drawings free for personal use if I can't do that e-mail me and I will happily send you them.
Many Thanks, James
Hello I built the small thors (first build) and I cant thank Renron, Dave and many others who helped enough. I often think about how great they were to help me. We recently sold our home and moved to a different home and had the Thors set up before the boxes were unpacked. The speakers are great. I certainly would never buy speakers again. But Renron called it -- they still are not finished. I got in a hurry and really wanted to see how they would sound. They ended up sounding so good I hate to take them out of the listening room. Last week I bolted the drivers in after having them screwed in all this time. Made an improvement to the sound. On the thread I started (above) there is a lot of good information about a first build from the people who helped me. but I would strongly recommend you do as they said not as I did. The Holey brace is can take quite a bit of time I eventually used a cheap drill press and a bimetal hole saw. that sped things up. The brace just barely touching the driver basket seems to be important when playing loud music I can feel the back of the speaker vibrating a little the other panels dont seem to be. The baltic birch plywood also seems to be important. I used MDF and ply wood for the front panel and mdf for the top and bottom to paint. (I going to paint them some day) I am sure Jims crossover is great I bought my components used so ended up with the Madisound upgraded crossover. if you look at http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?26754-seas-thor-crossover-redesign-help/page3 Karl build the small thor with Jims crossover and they measured great. But we are very happy with the sound the way they are. I dont think there are any joints that would be wrong. As long as they are airtight and strong enough. I just used butt joints. If you use dados or rabbits I think you need to maintain internal volume just repeating what the masters told me. External crossovers also from Renron mastery. check out his thors for real inspiration. hope that helps a little
Ben
Ben
8ntractor,
Thank you for the very kind words. I warned you about finishing the cabinets........LOL. Too funny.
I am just a termite, making little pieces of wood out of big pieces. Dave (Planet10) and Sir Scottmoose are the heros of this speaker transformation.
James5000,
I'll try to answer most of your questions in the order you asked them. Easy to be overwhelmed with information from so many credible sources.
First, I'd charge (even a friend) more than a few "Fosters" for the trouble your about to take on. (hint: don't offer to paint them piano black) LOL you'll be sorrrrrrryyyyyyyy!
Second, the "Kit" that is sold on line is CRAP. That is what Planet10 and ScottMoose worked so hard to correct. The XO (crossover is crap too)
There are currently 3 versions of the "Thors" that have had the design corrected.
The Small, The Fat and The Short. I built the "Small". It has great WAF appeal.
Here is Planet10s website with the dimensions and a good XO design by Jimangie. I can vouch for this XO, it helps. Reduces the Db a few from the original design but is worth the attenuation.
http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/Revisiting-Thor-291109.pdf
Mount the XO on the OUTSIDE of the cabinet. I originally built them inside and then later changed to outside. MUCH easier to change a C or R.
Either Baltic birch plywood (has more layers and zero voids) or MDF. MDF makes lots of nasty dust. I used Italian bendy plywood for mine. Either is OK.
Use lots of bracing internally and butt joints are fine with a good quality glue. You know which one you prefer. Hard to over brace the box. Until you start to negate the internal volume. Use whatever type of jointery you prefer. You can locate the port in the front or down, if you put it in the rear, it will sound boomy placed near the wall. Dont' do it!
Planet10 already has drawing posted (above link) , but we would like to see your progress as you build them. Start a new thread with your build pictures and questions, put a link in this thread so we can find / follow your progress. We answer questions more often when pictures are involved. I'm sure 8ntractor will be a fountain of knowledge and glad to help you with your build questions.
Ron
Still lovin' my Thors. Thanks Dave and ScottMoose!
Thank you for the very kind words. I warned you about finishing the cabinets........LOL. Too funny.
I am just a termite, making little pieces of wood out of big pieces. Dave (Planet10) and Sir Scottmoose are the heros of this speaker transformation.
James5000,
I'll try to answer most of your questions in the order you asked them. Easy to be overwhelmed with information from so many credible sources.
First, I'd charge (even a friend) more than a few "Fosters" for the trouble your about to take on. (hint: don't offer to paint them piano black) LOL you'll be sorrrrrrryyyyyyyy!
Second, the "Kit" that is sold on line is CRAP. That is what Planet10 and ScottMoose worked so hard to correct. The XO (crossover is crap too)
There are currently 3 versions of the "Thors" that have had the design corrected.
The Small, The Fat and The Short. I built the "Small". It has great WAF appeal.
Here is Planet10s website with the dimensions and a good XO design by Jimangie. I can vouch for this XO, it helps. Reduces the Db a few from the original design but is worth the attenuation.
http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/Revisiting-Thor-291109.pdf
Mount the XO on the OUTSIDE of the cabinet. I originally built them inside and then later changed to outside. MUCH easier to change a C or R.
Either Baltic birch plywood (has more layers and zero voids) or MDF. MDF makes lots of nasty dust. I used Italian bendy plywood for mine. Either is OK.
Use lots of bracing internally and butt joints are fine with a good quality glue. You know which one you prefer. Hard to over brace the box. Until you start to negate the internal volume. Use whatever type of jointery you prefer. You can locate the port in the front or down, if you put it in the rear, it will sound boomy placed near the wall. Dont' do it!
Planet10 already has drawing posted (above link) , but we would like to see your progress as you build them. Start a new thread with your build pictures and questions, put a link in this thread so we can find / follow your progress. We answer questions more often when pictures are involved.
I'm sure 8ntractor will be a fountain of knowledge and glad to help you with your build questions.Ron
Still lovin' my Thors. Thanks Dave and ScottMoose!
Hi Ron,
You, Scottmoose and Dave forgot way more than I will ever know about this. I am happy with my first build and they will likely be my last because they are good enough that I will live with them for a long time. I kept my b$w's for a decade and these are superior. I was playing around with them after bolting the drivers in and i inverted the tweeter polarity I also used a speaker location calculator "rule of 5ths".and put them on hockey pucks (this is canada after all) they always sounded good but now they really sound good. I finally got around to measuring the speakers today with a cheap radio shack spl meter and a computer generate sine wave sweep. +/- 3 from 42 - 20k at the listening position. I am sure the measurement was not super accurate. but the band is in the room.
Ben
You, Scottmoose and Dave forgot way more than I will ever know about this. I am happy with my first build and they will likely be my last because they are good enough that I will live with them for a long time. I kept my b$w's for a decade and these are superior. I was playing around with them after bolting the drivers in and i inverted the tweeter polarity I also used a speaker location calculator "rule of 5ths".and put them on hockey pucks (this is canada after all) they always sounded good but now they really sound good. I finally got around to measuring the speakers today with a cheap radio shack spl meter and a computer generate sine wave sweep. +/- 3 from 42 - 20k at the listening position. I am sure the measurement was not super accurate. but the band is in the room.
Ben
Hi all,
Im thinking on rebuilding my old Thors. I have few questions. What is the difference between Fat Thor and Fat Thor ML sound wise? I really like the old Thor for the not boxy bass and mid. So am I wrong to think that Fat Thor would be better in that region?
Then about the crossover. Ive found a couple of schematics for a new xo. One on the link on Renrons post above and this one:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...as-thor-kit-reduced-baffle-step-crossover.jpg
Is the latter one the latest version from jimangie1973 and can it be used on Fat Thor?
Thaks in advance
Juhi
Im thinking on rebuilding my old Thors. I have few questions. What is the difference between Fat Thor and Fat Thor ML sound wise? I really like the old Thor for the not boxy bass and mid. So am I wrong to think that Fat Thor would be better in that region?
Then about the crossover. Ive found a couple of schematics for a new xo. One on the link on Renrons post above and this one:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...as-thor-kit-reduced-baffle-step-crossover.jpg
Is the latter one the latest version from jimangie1973 and can it be used on Fat Thor?
Thaks in advance
Juhi
Hello,
I build "small thor" I read the whole topic but I had to miss this passage.
I think I removed too much when I do my swiss cheese .. : ( what will be the impact on the final result, is it serious?
Thank you in advance for your answers.
Attachments
Want to best PMC Twenty-13 TL speaks with Thor DIY
Thor Gods:
I won’t do this to you again – I promise.
With DIY Thor on my mind, I went to a shop wherein the next-to-cheapest tower speaker is the $5k/pr PMC Twenty-23 (transmission line 2-way speaker, 5.5 driver, SEAS doped fabric tweeter, crossover at 1.8kHz). They were powered by a ProLogue Premium tube amp – the salesman said the amp sounded like the HK Citation II which I’m preparing to rebuild McShane-style with help.
I was (finally) really impressed by a speaker (lots of buddies have had extravagant fails over the years). My yardstick is carved bass (I’ve played some $6-figure ones). LaFaro’s bass from Bill Evans’ Village Vanguard gig in 1961 sounded like it was there playing in the store…and not the least bit puffed up or ill-defined. An in-store copy of Beethoven Opus 13 on solo concert piano sounded like a, um, piano…not a piano with hidden Kraco subwoofers. Diana Krall’s voice (including s consonants) was real and devastating and her piano sound was proper (her string bassist’s sound was a bit produced-up but no matter – Mr. Costello’s wife gets a lifelong pass from me for reasons I shouldn’t discuss here).
I dutifully listened to some modern fictionalized sonic perturbations too (Steely Dan, Michael Jackson, other stuff) – the 23s recite them tactfully and dispassionately which is fine with me. I might go back and hear some tenors, sopranos, guitars, trumpet/sax, etc. (and some Cavaille-Coll-spec pipe organs although that’s admittedly not fair).
I was out of time and won’t listen to speakers I can’t afford, so that was it. If a speaker does the above-mentioned acoustic stuff adroitly, I’ll put up with the rest. Note that the PMCs weren’t at all loud - I would like to have more headroom so that I can work on the motorcycle in the garage and have it sound like a hired trio is just inside my screen door.
So…Thor and diy. I’m thinking I’m a budding transmission line apologist. I like super-controlled bass and TL apparently gives it (so does CII – if my friend hadn’t sold his wheels-up CII to me for chump change I might not be going here). In this thread I detect the notion that the original Thor design, an already “bassically” well-behaved design, has perhaps been bested bass-wise by the fat, small, short, etc. derivations (an unusual anti-Goldilocks result).
I have a professional woodworking guru with a shop full of expensive machinery in the building next to me. I’m not looking for Museum of Modern Art chic looks - I’d wouldn’t mind if they looked as if a super-talented Amish person had made them with primo materials and old-school techniques, dowels, etc. (Maybe imagine them next to the whale foreskin covered barstools in Ari Onassis’ yacht in the 60s…yeah). I like the look of the SEAS MTM Thor stuff (not very Amish, but never mind, move along). And I want to know going in that my cabs are heavy and steadfastly out of the sonic picture – I will get young athletes to move them around for me.
So, thou studly experts whose brains I dig, hit me with your rhythm stick. Please post replies and sell me on:
Fat/Thin/Small/Original/Extra-crispy? I want extended/controlled bass with playback volume. Since the CII is already controlled in bass, perhaps I can afford some extension on original Thor bass? These will play in a large room with hardwood floors and a vaulted ceiling (or a smaller room if my current romance doesn’t work out – again, move along). And, um, now would be a good time to suggest any other tight-bassed diy design option.
SEAS? – They’re purdy, SEAS has long-term corporate stability, the build quality is seemingly worthy of the CII. But I’ve described my sound – is there a better TL option?
Crossover?:
I want to shave down any known bumps using highest-spec parts and defensible design. Looking for smooth, low-fatigue trio jazz ride cymbal (test: Thigpen’s ride on Oscar Peterson’s West Side Story). Want no mendacity in vocals – e.g., Krall’s voice must not acquire any fork-tongued sibilance. Crossovers will be external - I am prepared to experiment. No compromise - if you tell me I need whale-foreskin-in-virgin-olive-oil capacitors, infra-hydraulic quasi-toroidal transformers, well ok.
Cabinets?:
I dunno – Zalytron for heft? Or completely custom and let my cabinet guy figure it out s/t interior dimensions? I dunno.
I do know this – though this is important to me and I’m excited about it (and have been), I’m done thinking about it and will not drawl on any longer – I want to get some choice basic intel subject to my proclivities and DO it. I’m a blind golfer here and you’re the pros – please line me up on this drive and I’ll get myself to the 19th hole.
I won’t do this to you again – I promise…even though this thread is already epic.
CJRTrio
Thor Gods:
I won’t do this to you again – I promise.
With DIY Thor on my mind, I went to a shop wherein the next-to-cheapest tower speaker is the $5k/pr PMC Twenty-23 (transmission line 2-way speaker, 5.5 driver, SEAS doped fabric tweeter, crossover at 1.8kHz). They were powered by a ProLogue Premium tube amp – the salesman said the amp sounded like the HK Citation II which I’m preparing to rebuild McShane-style with help.
I was (finally) really impressed by a speaker (lots of buddies have had extravagant fails over the years). My yardstick is carved bass (I’ve played some $6-figure ones). LaFaro’s bass from Bill Evans’ Village Vanguard gig in 1961 sounded like it was there playing in the store…and not the least bit puffed up or ill-defined. An in-store copy of Beethoven Opus 13 on solo concert piano sounded like a, um, piano…not a piano with hidden Kraco subwoofers. Diana Krall’s voice (including s consonants) was real and devastating and her piano sound was proper (her string bassist’s sound was a bit produced-up but no matter – Mr. Costello’s wife gets a lifelong pass from me for reasons I shouldn’t discuss here).
I dutifully listened to some modern fictionalized sonic perturbations too (Steely Dan, Michael Jackson, other stuff) – the 23s recite them tactfully and dispassionately which is fine with me. I might go back and hear some tenors, sopranos, guitars, trumpet/sax, etc. (and some Cavaille-Coll-spec pipe organs although that’s admittedly not fair).
I was out of time and won’t listen to speakers I can’t afford, so that was it. If a speaker does the above-mentioned acoustic stuff adroitly, I’ll put up with the rest. Note that the PMCs weren’t at all loud - I would like to have more headroom so that I can work on the motorcycle in the garage and have it sound like a hired trio is just inside my screen door.
So…Thor and diy. I’m thinking I’m a budding transmission line apologist. I like super-controlled bass and TL apparently gives it (so does CII – if my friend hadn’t sold his wheels-up CII to me for chump change I might not be going here). In this thread I detect the notion that the original Thor design, an already “bassically” well-behaved design, has perhaps been bested bass-wise by the fat, small, short, etc. derivations (an unusual anti-Goldilocks result).
I have a professional woodworking guru with a shop full of expensive machinery in the building next to me. I’m not looking for Museum of Modern Art chic looks - I’d wouldn’t mind if they looked as if a super-talented Amish person had made them with primo materials and old-school techniques, dowels, etc. (Maybe imagine them next to the whale foreskin covered barstools in Ari Onassis’ yacht in the 60s…yeah). I like the look of the SEAS MTM Thor stuff (not very Amish, but never mind, move along). And I want to know going in that my cabs are heavy and steadfastly out of the sonic picture – I will get young athletes to move them around for me.
So, thou studly experts whose brains I dig, hit me with your rhythm stick. Please post replies and sell me on:
Fat/Thin/Small/Original/Extra-crispy? I want extended/controlled bass with playback volume. Since the CII is already controlled in bass, perhaps I can afford some extension on original Thor bass? These will play in a large room with hardwood floors and a vaulted ceiling (or a smaller room if my current romance doesn’t work out – again, move along). And, um, now would be a good time to suggest any other tight-bassed diy design option.
SEAS? – They’re purdy, SEAS has long-term corporate stability, the build quality is seemingly worthy of the CII. But I’ve described my sound – is there a better TL option?
Crossover?:
I want to shave down any known bumps using highest-spec parts and defensible design. Looking for smooth, low-fatigue trio jazz ride cymbal (test: Thigpen’s ride on Oscar Peterson’s West Side Story). Want no mendacity in vocals – e.g., Krall’s voice must not acquire any fork-tongued sibilance. Crossovers will be external - I am prepared to experiment. No compromise - if you tell me I need whale-foreskin-in-virgin-olive-oil capacitors, infra-hydraulic quasi-toroidal transformers, well ok.
Cabinets?:
I dunno – Zalytron for heft? Or completely custom and let my cabinet guy figure it out s/t interior dimensions? I dunno.
I do know this – though this is important to me and I’m excited about it (and have been), I’m done thinking about it and will not drawl on any longer – I want to get some choice basic intel subject to my proclivities and DO it. I’m a blind golfer here and you’re the pros – please line me up on this drive and I’ll get myself to the 19th hole.
I won’t do this to you again – I promise…even though this thread is already epic.
CJRTrio
Well I'm no pro, but I've been living with Thor´s for a few years now.
I built new XO´s for my Thor´s some time ago, and I really like the result. Being lazy, I haven't built new cabinets. Fat would be my choice, but my next project is a 4-way phone booth, so Fat Thor must wait its turn.
The Thor is a very good speaker. Specially mid clarity and bass control are superb in its price class. No boxy sound here.
Thors are not a hard speaker to drive, but they do benefit from a good amp. I substituted my old Luxman with a pair of Apoll class-d mono block´s and could not stop giggling for hours.
Juhi
I built new XO´s for my Thor´s some time ago, and I really like the result. Being lazy, I haven't built new cabinets. Fat would be my choice, but my next project is a 4-way phone booth, so Fat Thor must wait its turn.
The Thor is a very good speaker. Specially mid clarity and bass control are superb in its price class. No boxy sound here.
Thors are not a hard speaker to drive, but they do benefit from a good amp. I substituted my old Luxman with a pair of Apoll class-d mono block´s and could not stop giggling for hours.
Juhi
CJ,
I've been gone (other forums, not audio) for a while so I just read your verbose post and related questions.
Your not going to like the sound reflections from those hard wood floors. Been there, used area rugs to help (not cure) boominess. Ports on the front or down? Mine are on the front, if I had a do-over, I would port them down. How far from rear walls can they be placed and you still be happy with room design. Curtains? Rugs? Chairs? Couches? All will make an impact on the reflections and Boom you perceive.
Fat thors will produce copious amounts of bass, maybe not the best for your locations and taste. (hardwood floors)
Tall Thors would be a good match, imo. All of the umph but controlled.
Solid cabinets are a must. Build 'em right and you'll be grinning like the rest of us soon.
Let us know what direction you go.
Ron
necro-posting specialist.......
I've been gone (other forums, not audio) for a while so I just read your verbose post and related questions.
Your not going to like the sound reflections from those hard wood floors. Been there, used area rugs to help (not cure) boominess. Ports on the front or down? Mine are on the front, if I had a do-over, I would port them down. How far from rear walls can they be placed and you still be happy with room design. Curtains? Rugs? Chairs? Couches? All will make an impact on the reflections and Boom you perceive.
Fat thors will produce copious amounts of bass, maybe not the best for your locations and taste. (hardwood floors)
Tall Thors would be a good match, imo. All of the umph but controlled.
Solid cabinets are a must. Build 'em right and you'll be grinning like the rest of us soon.
Let us know what direction you go.
Ron
necro-posting specialist.......