Hello,
I am about to build myself a pair of Small Thor in the following months and I have a few questions I believe you folks can answer for me.
1)
Can I modify/convert the pipe port to make it look like the original? Still on the front though. Here's a picture of what I mean:
I suppose the volume of the port itself must be kept the same.
3" x 4" pipe equals 463.33 cm3 or 28.27 inch3
179 x 65 x 40 mm rectangular equals 465.4 cm3 or 28.40 inch3
(23mm MDF: 9" - 2 x 23 =179 mm)
2)
What do you think of an active crossover?
I already have all the amplification needed and a miniDSP 2x4. Using the miniDSP for active xo would save huge money. The miniDSP would also make it easier modifying the xo for one to two midrange drivers.
Does the two midrange drivers get identical signal from the xo or would I need one more miniDSP?
Maybe it's just stupid?
3)
As of now I have the two tweeters and one pair of midrange drivers.
I will not be able to afford the second set of W18E for atleast a month or two: is it possible to use just one set of midrange drivers in the Small Thor cabinet? Ofcourse I don't expect the performance of a Thor, but it would be nice to put my drivers to use and to get rid of my current speakers.
For this to work I expect a different crossover and that would not be a problem with the miniDSP.
Thanks in advance
Björn, Sweden
I am about to build myself a pair of Small Thor in the following months and I have a few questions I believe you folks can answer for me.
1)
Can I modify/convert the pipe port to make it look like the original? Still on the front though. Here's a picture of what I mean:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I suppose the volume of the port itself must be kept the same.
3" x 4" pipe equals 463.33 cm3 or 28.27 inch3
179 x 65 x 40 mm rectangular equals 465.4 cm3 or 28.40 inch3
(23mm MDF: 9" - 2 x 23 =179 mm)
2)
What do you think of an active crossover?
I already have all the amplification needed and a miniDSP 2x4. Using the miniDSP for active xo would save huge money. The miniDSP would also make it easier modifying the xo for one to two midrange drivers.
Does the two midrange drivers get identical signal from the xo or would I need one more miniDSP?
Maybe it's just stupid?
3)
As of now I have the two tweeters and one pair of midrange drivers.
I will not be able to afford the second set of W18E for atleast a month or two: is it possible to use just one set of midrange drivers in the Small Thor cabinet? Ofcourse I don't expect the performance of a Thor, but it would be nice to put my drivers to use and to get rid of my current speakers.
For this to work I expect a different crossover and that would not be a problem with the miniDSP.
Thanks in advance
Björn, Sweden
Yes. You must maintain the area & cross-section, not the volume. It should be noted that the original had the terminus on the back at the top.
Off-set needs to be maintained, you can't push the drivers up to the top as pictured in the Usher you posted.
Sounds a good idea. You'll have some work to get all the details right.
You could do a halfThor by having the cross-section of the line & the terminus.
dave
PS: the front page (even set to 100 posts) is only good for the last 3-6 hrs)
Uhm. Maybe someone could draw me an idiot friendly .bmp?
It seems I'm having difficulties with techy talk.
So if it's not the volume of the port that affects performance, what is it really?
Ah. Cool. It seems like I've misjudged the hugeness of this forum
Uhm. Maybe someone could draw me an idiot friendly .bmp?
It seems I'm having difficulties with techy talk.
So if it's not the volume of the port that affects performance, what is it really?
http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/Changing-Port-Size.pdf
dave
What size Amps for the Thors?
Hey guys,
I've been thinking........................
I'm driving my Thors with an F5, not the turbo model. I was given a pair of Carver A-220s and just for fun hooked 'em up and listened for the difference.
The "drive" is so much greater with the carver I was shocked. But, there is a "Live" presence with the F5 that almost brings tears to my eyes when listening to Alison Krauss' s voice.
Dave, you stated that we should use 750Watts for optimum performance earilier. Whoa. That's a lot more than the F5 is capable of.
What are you'all driving the Thors with? and what is your wattage?
Any opinons on the Carver's quality? I could even use them as Mono blocks @ 375W each.
Thoughts?
Ron
Hey guys,
I've been thinking........................
I'm driving my Thors with an F5, not the turbo model. I was given a pair of Carver A-220s and just for fun hooked 'em up and listened for the difference.
The "drive" is so much greater with the carver I was shocked. But, there is a "Live" presence with the F5 that almost brings tears to my eyes when listening to Alison Krauss' s voice.
Dave, you stated that we should use 750Watts for optimum performance earilier. Whoa. That's a lot more than the F5 is capable of.
What are you'all driving the Thors with? and what is your wattage?
Any opinons on the Carver's quality? I could even use them as Mono blocks @ 375W each.
Thoughts?
Ron
Doah!
Damn it, I was wrong. I'm wrong so often, I should be good at it by now. Sorry.
Dave it was your co-designer / partner in crime ScottMoose who said it. Post #556
"In reality, I was understating above -Thor would actually need ~0.75Kw to properly handle ~live level dynamic peaks."
Jackinnj,
Are you referring to adjusting the bias of the F5? If so, no, it's as stock as the day it was finished. R11 = .6V @ 0.V DC
My F5 never gets hot, it is almost an open air build with great ventilation.
As this is directly related to the Thor's (love 'em) and their power requirements, I don't consider this a thread drift. If others do, I'll move the conversation to a separate thread.
Ron
Damn it, I was wrong. I'm wrong so often, I should be good at it by now.
Sorry. Dave it was your co-designer / partner in crime ScottMoose who said it. Post #556
"In reality, I was understating above -Thor would actually need ~0.75Kw to properly handle ~live level dynamic peaks."
Jackinnj,
Are you referring to adjusting the bias of the F5? If so, no, it's as stock as the day it was finished. R11 = .6V @ 0.V DC
My F5 never gets hot, it is almost an open air build with great ventilation.
As this is directly related to the Thor's (love 'em) and their power requirements, I don't consider this a thread drift. If others do, I'll move the conversation to a separate thread.
Ron
Care and feeding of the Thors is directly related to the thread. Repute has an Adcom GFA5800 on his. Class A for the for first 10 watts then like 300 AB.
Not bad at all but not nearly an F5 or NC400's.....
I think putting it in perspective a TL sounds better than a vented system in the low frequency and the mid-range section given the same set of drivers. Mass manufacturing of TL systems are difficult as they involve stringent requirements for damping the line which are not easy for mass commercial manufactures. Vented enclosures on the other hand are easy to manufacture and does not have stringent tolerances. Mass commercial manufacturing does not have different results where as in a TL there can be huge variations in teh mid-range / low frequency due to damping tolerances. Hence there are only a handful of commercial TL manufactures and they know what they are doing.
Kind Regards,
Hari.
Hello.
I have been looking at Speaker kits for quite some time and recently got the thor drivers and crossovers(preowned) as an xmas present. After reading all the good work done by Scottmoose, planet 10, Jim and all the others on this thread. I am going to build the small thors. This is my first project so I was wondering if there is a build instruction for the thors? I can build the cabinets but I am a little worried about simple things that can go wrong like wiring (what type of wire should I buy) and how to hook up the speakers. Any advice would be appreciated.
thanks
Ben
I have been looking at Speaker kits for quite some time and recently got the thor drivers and crossovers(preowned) as an xmas present. After reading all the good work done by Scottmoose, planet 10, Jim and all the others on this thread. I am going to build the small thors. This is my first project so I was wondering if there is a build instruction for the thors? I can build the cabinets but I am a little worried about simple things that can go wrong like wiring (what type of wire should I buy) and how to hook up the speakers. Any advice would be appreciated.
thanks
Ben
Mr. Tractor,
Can I call you 8n?
LOL, OK Ben. Start a new thread when you are ready to start your speaker build. Post a link in this thread to your new thread. That way we can follow you and help you out when you need it.
Advice? You'll get plenty of that!
Don't go hog wild on expensive wire for Xovers or speaker connections. Do buy good to Very good Xover components. They will be expensive. When it comes time to build those Xovers, ask about which parts people like and the prices.
Use Baltic birch plywood 3/4" at LEAST. 1/2" with 3/4" over that would be even better for the cabinets. Don't go cheap on the plywood and/or veneer. Ask a lot of questions in your thread. Show us pictures of your progress, it keeps us interested.
Ron
Can I call you 8n?
LOL, OK Ben. Start a new thread when you are ready to start your speaker build. Post a link in this thread to your new thread. That way we can follow you and help you out when you need it.
Advice? You'll get plenty of that!
Don't go hog wild on expensive wire for Xovers or speaker connections. Do buy good to Very good Xover components. They will be expensive. When it comes time to build those Xovers, ask about which parts people like and the prices.
Use Baltic birch plywood 3/4" at LEAST. 1/2" with 3/4" over that would be even better for the cabinets. Don't go cheap on the plywood and/or veneer. Ask a lot of questions in your thread. Show us pictures of your progress, it keeps us interested.
Ron
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the early help. your speaker build is certainly an inspiration. I showed your speakers to my wife -- then had to show her some unfinished MDF boxes to give her more realistic expectations. Were we live (rural Ontario) I can get 3/4 MDF or Russian birch. I bought both and thought I would build the baffle and supports from MDF and the sides out of ply. After reading more I think I will build the exterior out of ply and layer at least the baffle with MDF. I am not sure about the braces. After I got the ply home it is only 5/8 and that is all the home depot has so maybe I should layer the whole cabinet with ply on the outside and MDF on the inside. which leads me to a question that I have spent quite a bit of time trying to answer reading the threads. If I chamfer the baffle say 1" on each side is the 9" baffle now 7" or is it still 9" for the baffle step correction? I will start a thread on your good advise but the drivers and crossovers are in customs so it could take quite a while to get them. I would like to finish getting the material to start on the cabinets. Its kind of funny about 25 years ago we lived in Madison and I went to Madisound, at the time they had kits but none assembled or none to listen to just components. If I had made a different choice back then I would have started this hobby a lot earlier.
Thanks again
Ben
Thanks for the early help. your speaker build is certainly an inspiration. I showed your speakers to my wife -- then had to show her some unfinished MDF boxes to give her more realistic expectations. Were we live (rural Ontario) I can get 3/4 MDF or Russian birch. I bought both and thought I would build the baffle and supports from MDF and the sides out of ply. After reading more I think I will build the exterior out of ply and layer at least the baffle with MDF. I am not sure about the braces. After I got the ply home it is only 5/8 and that is all the home depot has so maybe I should layer the whole cabinet with ply on the outside and MDF on the inside. which leads me to a question that I have spent quite a bit of time trying to answer reading the threads. If I chamfer the baffle say 1" on each side is the 9" baffle now 7" or is it still 9" for the baffle step correction? I will start a thread on your good advise but the drivers and crossovers are in customs so it could take quite a while to get them. I would like to finish getting the material to start on the cabinets. Its kind of funny about 25 years ago we lived in Madison and I went to Madisound, at the time they had kits but none assembled or none to listen to just components. If I had made a different choice back then I would have started this hobby a lot earlier.
Thanks again
Ben