Mother Nature Knows Best
As to the holes and % of wood remaining.
The most efficient structure is the pentagon. Look how strong the honeycomb is, It has the greatest strength to material volume.
I understand that all my holes are not in that structure form, but the 50% ratio seems a little small.
I think that some of the energy that transfers from the front baffle to the brace / panel would be absorbed and NOT transfered to the opposite side panel. That should be a good thing. I believe it acts somewhat like an antiviberation mat.
What do you think?
Ron
read my signiture
As to the holes and % of wood remaining.
The most efficient structure is the pentagon. Look how strong the honeycomb is, It has the greatest strength to material volume.
I understand that all my holes are not in that structure form, but the 50% ratio seems a little small.
I think that some of the energy that transfers from the front baffle to the brace / panel would be absorbed and NOT transfered to the opposite side panel. That should be a good thing. I believe it acts somewhat like an antiviberation mat.
What do you think?
Ron
read my signiture
Ray Collins said:
Yes... straight out of Bucky Fuller (one of my heros). My current garage/workshop/warehouse apron cover is pure fuller inspiration. No-one would believe/understand it when i described it. Once i got the pieces all together (took the most time to paint/weatherproof the struts), it took Ruth and i ~ 2 hours to build the 36 foot x 10 ft structure which survived its 1st serious test thus last december.
In the top left brace in the survey pic (with 57% holes) "fixing" it involves running a piece from the back of the driver areas to the opposite corners triangulating the holes (and it ends up at 49% holes)
dave
Buckminister Fuller...I was fortunate enough to hear him speak when I was an undergraduate in the 1960's. He inspired a friend, his dad and I to build two geodesic domes. When I left the faculty at the U of Al. in 1983 they were still serving as housing for them.
Dave, was your build a dome also?
Ray
Dave, was your build a dome also?
Ray
Ray Collins said:
Not this one... it would be classed as a tensengrity (sp?) structure.
You can see it here... the major structural element is the platic tarp that is the cover. It is fixed by cedar boards at the top to the deck rail, and held out over the apron by the horizonal struts. Another set of cedar boards at the ends of the struts supply an attachment point for the other end of the tarp and a tiny bit of weight to help pull it taught. It was able to hold up to 8" of snow (i didn't let it get any deeper) during the winter storms.
I have built some domes thou... a 20 footer out of 1x1s, clear poly & staples, a 6 footer out of an HP plotter box, aluminum foil & duct tape (latest 3 years outdoors in the rain & sun as a BBQ cover before getting bad enuff to be trashed), and a 47.5 foot one made from 3/4" Al electrical conduit. We cut the pieces to length, flattened the ends in a vise, drilled a hole. We held the pieces together with carriage bolts. Took me & my brother less than an afternoon to assemble once we had all the pieces made. Just threw a tarp over it. I gave it to someone to use as a greenhouse frame and it is still in action as far as i know.
Someone should really make corner pieces that you can just plug PVC pipe into. Allow people to make a range of sizes really easily.
dave
Dave,
Sorry for the delayed response; my wife and I met some friends for dinner and I just returned.
Very credible builds. The two domes we built started with poles set to support platforms upon which the domes were built. Each was a 5/8 dome and, as with yours, went together very quickly after the components were built. Cedar shake shingles were used to skin them. In one dome we placed a row of clear panels that tracked the moon's rise and setting(it was the '60s after all). The tedious part was building the sub-assemblies but the results very gratifying. The domes served as bedrooms and the areas below as the living rooms and kitchens.
Ray
PS
My wife just relinquished the computer.
Nice, simple structure...VERY well done! The junction boxes are a good idea. I tried them with welded plates but it was not feasable; sub-assemblies made of wood were cheaper and could be assigned to helpers.
I think Buckey would be proud.
Sorry for the delayed response; my wife and I met some friends for dinner and I just returned.
Very credible builds. The two domes we built started with poles set to support platforms upon which the domes were built. Each was a 5/8 dome and, as with yours, went together very quickly after the components were built. Cedar shake shingles were used to skin them. In one dome we placed a row of clear panels that tracked the moon's rise and setting(it was the '60s after all). The tedious part was building the sub-assemblies but the results very gratifying. The domes served as bedrooms and the areas below as the living rooms and kitchens.
Ray
PS
My wife just relinquished the computer.
Nice, simple structure...VERY well done! The junction boxes are a good idea. I tried them with welded plates but it was not feasable; sub-assemblies made of wood were cheaper and could be assigned to helpers.
I think Buckey would be proud.
Inside in or Inside out?
Any potential issues with building the X-overs on a small sheet of ABS plastic? Thought about static electricty but no moving parts here. Parts held with zip ties and ABS held in place with velcro for possible removal later?
I remember reading somewhere (can't find it now) that it makes a difference which side of the inductor coil the + goes into and out of, In on the inside or out on the inside? Anybody know for sure?
Coils at 90* angles of course.
NQ
Ron
Any potential issues with building the X-overs on a small sheet of ABS plastic? Thought about static electricty but no moving parts here. Parts held with zip ties and ABS held in place with velcro for possible removal later?
I remember reading somewhere (can't find it now) that it makes a difference which side of the inductor coil the + goes into and out of, In on the inside or out on the inside? Anybody know for sure?
Coils at 90* angles of course.
NQ
Ron
Scottmoose said:Thought they looked familiar. I really should give those things a shot at some point, Especially since the SIs are supposed to work nicely on a (relatively) narrow baffle, so I might stand a fighting chance of getting them into the house
I wouldn't bother... the 15 really struggles to get up to the horn... i am eagarly awaiting the 10 (or to try any number of other 8 or 10" coaxes -- a set of 10" Tannoys out of the Kensington(?) would be interesting too.
dave