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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 20th July 2009, 12:32 AM   #891
fc911c is offline fc911c  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Renron
Frank,
Sorry, can't quite picture how your pedistals will look. Could you mock one up for us??? and yourself of course.

TiteBond wood glue, either #3 or 4, I like to use 1 coat on the endgrain of MDF and let it soak in, then glue both of the pieces in place and shoot a couple of pin nails into it while it drys. Never ever ever had a glue joint fail when done this way.

As far as the brace touching the backside of the driver.....I suppose it should, but mine don't and haven't had any problems with 'em yet. I have the ones with the rubber boot. I have several horizontal cross braces in addition to the one vertical brace though. Make sure you don't center the vertical brace, off set is better for sound wave cancellation.

You can get the threaded inserts from OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware) they have several styles to choose from. I like the ones that look like corkscrew picture holders for sheetrock. It is a VERY good idea to use 2 layers of MDF at the driver locations. Back bevel around the drivers to make them fit. 2 layers is plenty of support and you may not even need the threaded inserts, depends on what type of screws you mount drivers with. I used #8 Allen head.

I attached my front loaded port to the back side of the front Baffle with sub-floor adheasive. On a test chunk of wood route out a hole 1/4" deep that is the same as the outside diameter as the port tube. Snug fit is what you are after, glue it in place and let it dry. When it's dry, drill a large hole from the otherside into the center of the port tube. Use a flush cut router bit inside the port and Voila. instant perfect fit. I then used a 3/8" roundover as a flare to give it a finished look. However, as you are going to downfire your Thors, it doesn't have to be beautiful.

Thanks for the pictures.

Ron
Thanks Renron I will mock one up and take a pic. Thanks for the detailed answers to my questions, it will make my job a lot easyer.

Thanks
Frank
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Old 20th July 2009, 01:21 AM   #892
fc911c is offline fc911c  United States
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here is a quick mock up, the base will be a little wider. the posts will lift the cabinets 4" above the top of base. I can adjust final height by adding layres to the base.

I am using titebond but it says no number on bottle?
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Old 20th July 2009, 01:23 AM   #893
fc911c is offline fc911c  United States
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another
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Old 20th July 2009, 03:27 PM   #894
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Frank,

Aaahhhh, now I get it! Thanks for the mock up. Looks good, and a cool idea. Be aware that the tweeter height will change accordingly and you may need to sit on a phonebook or two to get your ear to the "sweet spot" tweeter wise.

Looks like a good idea and I like the rounded front, are you planning on using a round over bit too?

Titebond is the original, the numbering system (original, 2, 2d, 3) came later in development. They are respectively; General purpose alaphatic glue, #2; a semi-waterproof approved for light outdoor duty a polyvinyl acetate, (2d) it's darker brother for dark woods, and the waterproof version #3, which is a polymer. Their suitability for cold weather applications is in reverses order, 3,2,original, 3 being the best for cold weather work but takes the longest to tack and dry completely. (I worked as a carpenter at Lake Tahoe (elevation ~6,200 ft.) and the glue often froze in the back of the truck overnight. The only one that worked in those temps was Titebond 3, after it was warmed up a bit. I used over 1/2 gallon on my build of the Thors. I also used it for the cherry wood veneer iron on lay-up. It worked flawlessly.

Ron
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Old 20th July 2009, 10:17 PM   #895
fc911c is offline fc911c  United States
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Hi Ron

yes I know I will have to adjust tweeter height, so I will just add layers to bottom of base. or get a lower chair LOL

I would like to match the Radius on both front corners all the way up the cabinets. I don't know if there is a router bit that big, 3/4 is the biggest I've seen.

Well back to work this week so I won't have a chance to work on them till the end of week.

Frank
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Old 22nd August 2009, 12:43 PM   #896
fc911c is offline fc911c  United States
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Hi all

well I have one cabinet almost completed. I haven't much time to work on them and it took a lot longer than I thought it would.

I have a question on the batting amount used. I started with the recomended amount of 9 and 15 oz but it sounded muffled. I removed 9 oz from the rear compartment and it really sounded much better.

Can someone give me a idea of how much to use and where to put it? Does teasing the batting make a differance?

Thanks for the help
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File Type: jpg Speaker Cabinets 005.JPG (39.8 KB, 360 views)
File Type: jpg Speaker Cabinets 001.JPG (47.9 KB, 362 views)
File Type: jpg Speaker Cabinets 002.JPG (55.5 KB, 349 views)
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Old 31st August 2009, 12:49 AM   #897
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Frank I might not be any help because mine have a different internal structure, no typical TL baffle like yours do. I have "tuned or voiced" mine to the way I like them, and how they sound where they are placed in the room. I have removed even more of the stuffing after each change. I LOVE the new crossover design and it being outside the "box". I have removed all the stuffing out of the bottom / last 1/3. I would recommend that you do NOT glue them up until you have an opportunity to live with them for at least a few weeks. Remember they WILL take about 80 hours to break in and sound their best. I'd be screwed if I could not have access to the internal chamber. I also replaced all the wireing to the drivers with different gauges for bass and tweets.
Only you can tell if you like the stuffing amount and how they sound in your listening room. If they sound muffled to you then take out some more stuffing until they sound boomy, then slowly replace stuffing and give'em a listen. If you pick one song that has great detail and use it as a guide, you'll soon hear the difference in stuffing amounts and locations inside the cabinets.
Your gonna love the Thors..............

Ron

Last edited by Renron; 31st August 2009 at 12:52 AM.
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Old 31st August 2009, 12:59 AM   #898
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Don't tease the batting.........You'll only P*ss it off. %)

fluff is good, packed is bad. Hey, it's DIY! Have fun learning.

Ron
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Old 18th October 2009, 09:30 PM   #899
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Well folks, the weather is cooler and it's time for a good project. FWIW i will bring (yet another) Short Thor in solid cherry. Step by (oops) step.

So far thanks and kudos to all the contributors to the clarity thread. After going somwhat blind i found every last answer i had about this kit. Adam at madisoud even thought i knew what i was doing.

Here for all is a compliation for short thor projects. It is my offering and
is well intentioned as the widows mite. All i did was gather this info. I deserve no credit for any of this and wish none.

I do hope as has been the tradition in this thread that someone will add
to this. Maybe do the same for Small or Fat Thor.

This will not be a value oriented project. Don't look for injenuity. At 59 yrs old I learned if I throw enough money and time at job i will pull it off. That
should at least make this entertaining.

Anyhow that is it for today. The speakers are in the sllipery fingers of UPS
and I pick up lumber tomorrow.
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Old 18th October 2009, 09:41 PM   #900
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oops. I do have one (my first) question. Does the front to back brace contact the rear of the drivers. If so, What material should go between the wood and the speaker and sbould there be any pressure between the two?
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