Surround system?
Hello everyone, first post.
I am building a new house with a semi-dedicated HT and I am trying to decide whether to build the five or more surround speakers myself or just buy some B&W CT7.3 in-cabinets (costing €1,500 each).
I came across the PMC Fact.8 tower and Fact.3 standmount. I love how they look and I like what the reviewers comment. But these are way over budget at €6,000 for a pair of the towers. The Fact.3 costs not much less.
Fact.8 Loudspeaker Specifications
After a search, I found the Thors on the Seas website and this lead to this thread, which I scrolled through for the last few hours! Few! I might consider the Small Thor, which is more elegant. These would even fit behind an AT screen as centre speaker, even if that means that it is close to the wall. Would the Thor perform as good as the Fact? I happen to own a pair of open baffle Jamo R909 (bought used...) which I find brilliant. Clean, open sound and deep but very tight bass. Incapable of boomy bass! The midrange is Seas, tweeter is Scanspeak Revelator. These were bought for the large open plan area in the new house.
I did audition the Klipsch in-cabinet system. OK for movie, but lacking for music: to sharp in the high frequencies. Maybe missing some mid-bass. The 3-way B&W CT7.3 sounds much better with music.
I also thought about the Jensen from Troels Gravesen (with aperiodic vents). These are 3-way and also not cheap to do.
Jensen 1071 built by Tom
Other info is that the room is about 5,000 cubic feet and cladded with drywall. And I am building a pair of LLT subwoofers with Maelstrom 18-inchers... Weather stopped the house build, so these will finally be assembled, time to decide about the main speakers. If I can't get better sound than the B&W's (the CM9 + CM centre 2 also considered), I won't bother. Should I bother? I have experience in cabinet making, none in electronics. The Madison kit with improved assembled X-overs seem tempting. Maybe some German or Dutch shop offers the same kits.
Any suggestion is welcome.
Hello everyone, first post.
I am building a new house with a semi-dedicated HT and I am trying to decide whether to build the five or more surround speakers myself or just buy some B&W CT7.3 in-cabinets (costing €1,500 each).
I came across the PMC Fact.8 tower and Fact.3 standmount. I love how they look and I like what the reviewers comment. But these are way over budget at €6,000 for a pair of the towers. The Fact.3 costs not much less.
Fact.8 Loudspeaker Specifications
After a search, I found the Thors on the Seas website and this lead to this thread, which I scrolled through for the last few hours! Few! I might consider the Small Thor, which is more elegant. These would even fit behind an AT screen as centre speaker, even if that means that it is close to the wall. Would the Thor perform as good as the Fact? I happen to own a pair of open baffle Jamo R909 (bought used...) which I find brilliant. Clean, open sound and deep but very tight bass. Incapable of boomy bass! The midrange is Seas, tweeter is Scanspeak Revelator. These were bought for the large open plan area in the new house.
I did audition the Klipsch in-cabinet system. OK for movie, but lacking for music: to sharp in the high frequencies. Maybe missing some mid-bass. The 3-way B&W CT7.3 sounds much better with music.
I also thought about the Jensen from Troels Gravesen (with aperiodic vents). These are 3-way and also not cheap to do.
Jensen 1071 built by Tom
Other info is that the room is about 5,000 cubic feet and cladded with drywall. And I am building a pair of LLT subwoofers with Maelstrom 18-inchers... Weather stopped the house build, so these will finally be assembled, time to decide about the main speakers. If I can't get better sound than the B&W's (the CM9 + CM centre 2 also considered), I won't bother. Should I bother? I have experience in cabinet making, none in electronics. The Madison kit with improved assembled X-overs seem tempting. Maybe some German or Dutch shop offers the same kits.
Any suggestion is welcome.
Hi guys,
New member here. I am wanting to build the odin mk3 with the new xover design from jimangie???
I am wanting to make a few changes:
The internal cabinet size will be the same as the original design from seas. Is it best to port the speaker or seal it like jimanjie?
I intend to make the baffle protrude 25mm out from the cabinet and have rounded edges. The flat surface of the baffle will remain the same as the original design.
Will this effect BSC? If so, what changes are necessary?
New member here. I am wanting to build the odin mk3 with the new xover design from jimangie???
I am wanting to make a few changes:
The internal cabinet size will be the same as the original design from seas. Is it best to port the speaker or seal it like jimanjie?
I intend to make the baffle protrude 25mm out from the cabinet and have rounded edges. The flat surface of the baffle will remain the same as the original design.
Will this effect BSC? If so, what changes are necessary?
Go you mean that the baffle will extend out sideways? Ie making the baffle 11" wide instead of 9"? A sketch might help.
This will affect BSC and if the baffle just sticks out it will increase the amount of ripple.
dave
Okay.... side view. The flat surface of the baffle remains the same, along with the width of the baffle flat surface. But 25mm on the top, bottom, and sides is added for the curve.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I suggest you use forum attachment service, like in your previous post
seems to work ok
moderation
edit,
I see Tony is helping you
another one.
Another one showing odin front. The centre rectangle represents the original odin baffle. This retangle protrudes from the main cabinet by 24mm.
The 2nd rectangle represents the 25mm addition for the baffle roll over curve. Rollover curve is 24.5mm. This, in essence, will increase the baffle size by 50mm in height and 50mm in width. Please note that this portion is curved.
3rd rectangle represents the outer cabinet with a width of 25mm. This accomodates the 24.5mm curve down to the protruding baffle.
So the main cabinet body will be 69mm thick mdf.But the internal volume remains the same.
Another one showing odin front. The centre rectangle represents the original odin baffle. This retangle protrudes from the main cabinet by 24mm.
The 2nd rectangle represents the 25mm addition for the baffle roll over curve. Rollover curve is 24.5mm. This, in essence, will increase the baffle size by 50mm in height and 50mm in width. Please note that this portion is curved.
3rd rectangle represents the outer cabinet with a width of 25mm. This accomodates the 24.5mm curve down to the protruding baffle.
So the main cabinet body will be 69mm thick mdf.But the internal volume remains the same.
Attachments
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Hey,
Build the LR4 crossed at 1500Hz, that's the best sounding version IMO. The baffle design should have minimal effect on the BSC verses what I have which is a 10" wide box with 0.5" roundovers on the sides of the baffle. You can also tweak the BSC some if needed by changing the value of resistor on the woofer circuit, but I doubt you'll need to do that. In the tweeter circuit, just use a 9uF cap and 3.3 Ohm resistor (instead of the 8.7 in and 3.59 in the picture).
I sealed mine because my boxes had a 3" port so I couldn't get the tuning frequency low enough to provide a satisfactory ported response. They are commercial speakers that I modded. The W18 woofers work well vented in a large box, 2 cu. feet. A smaller box like the Odin could also work if the tuning frequency is low enough, but the deep bass will not be there. You could always try it with the 2" port and plug the port and stuff the box if you can't get the bass response right. They will sound good sealed, but need a subwoofer for 50Hz and below.
Build the LR4 crossed at 1500Hz, that's the best sounding version IMO. The baffle design should have minimal effect on the BSC verses what I have which is a 10" wide box with 0.5" roundovers on the sides of the baffle. You can also tweak the BSC some if needed by changing the value of resistor on the woofer circuit, but I doubt you'll need to do that. In the tweeter circuit, just use a 9uF cap and 3.3 Ohm resistor (instead of the 8.7 in and 3.59 in the picture).
I sealed mine because my boxes had a 3" port so I couldn't get the tuning frequency low enough to provide a satisfactory ported response. They are commercial speakers that I modded. The W18 woofers work well vented in a large box, 2 cu. feet. A smaller box like the Odin could also work if the tuning frequency is low enough, but the deep bass will not be there. You could always try it with the 2" port and plug the port and stuff the box if you can't get the bass response right. They will sound good sealed, but need a subwoofer for 50Hz and below.
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Is this just for convenience of component values or due to the cabinet design I want to use? Because I can get all the exact values you show on the crossover....by the way, thanks for the extensive work you have put into the xover and your quick response.
I will probably just seal them. But will perhaps build a normal version and try the 2" port idea. Will tune them to what the original odin is and see what happens...
Is this just for convenience of component values or due to the cabinet design I want to use? Because I can get all the exact values you show on the crossover....by the way, thanks for the extensive work you have put into the xover and your quick response.
No, not just for convenience. I've gone back and forth with these values in a small window. The values I gave are about in the middle of that window.
It's not work, it's play.
To know about baffle step we need a top view. As far as edge diffraction you would be better to have one larger continuous round over than the stepped one you are showing.
dave
Super! Thanks guys. I wasnt complaining about diyaudio by the way. Just the fact that my images werent displaying.
Not diyA's fault. I fixed the 1st picture link which was a mess. Better to attach images to the database, and then you also don't have to worry about your photo-posting service dissappearing your images.
dave
The curved bit will not effect where BS occurs, and it is small enuff that it will impact the smoothness of the transition only a little. 2" wider baffle will push the transition frequency down a little bit.
dave