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Old 12th April 2007, 05:03 PM   #481
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midnite Mick
Then would there be a minimum holeage for proper air movement.....or in this case the least interference is the best? I guess what I am asking is there a point where removing more material will have no effect?
There is a balance between not-restricting air flow (which will be cabinet dependent), bracing, and breaking up internal standing waves.

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Old 12th April 2007, 08:49 PM   #482
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Default Mother Nature Knows Best

As to the holes and % of wood remaining.
The most efficient structure is the pentagon. Look how strong the honeycomb is, It has the greatest strength to material volume.
I understand that all my holes are not in that structure form, but the 50% ratio seems a little small.
I think that some of the energy that transfers from the front baffle to the brace / panel would be absorbed and NOT transfered to the opposite side panel. That should be a good thing. I believe it acts somewhat like an antiviberation mat.

What do you think?

Ron
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Old 12th April 2007, 09:29 PM   #483
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I thought the strongest structure was a triangle. The tube and fabric airplanes that I built or owned used steel tubing laid-out in triangles to form the trusses. Built-up wings were similarly constructed including the torsion boxes(drag and anti-drag bars) in the wings.

Ray
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Old 12th April 2007, 09:51 PM   #484
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ray Collins
I thought the strongest structure was a triangle. The tube and fabric airplanes that I built or owned used steel tubing laid-out in triangles to form the trusses. Built-up wings were similarly constructed including the torsion boxes(drag and anti-drag bars) in the wings.

Ray
I think that if you fiberglas'd the "most holy" (sanctissimus) structure you could add a lot to the structural integrity.
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Old 12th April 2007, 09:53 PM   #485
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Default Re: Mother Nature Knows Best

Quote:
Originally posted by Renron
[I think that some of the energy that transfers from the front baffle to the brace / panel would be absorbed and NOT transfered to the opposite side panel.
That is a bit less stiffness than i intended, but who knows... if the energy is averaged, and made more chaotic/random/uncorrelated that is probably a good thing.

dave
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Old 12th April 2007, 09:59 PM   #486
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ray Collins
I thought the strongest structure was a triangle.
Yes... straight out of Bucky Fuller (one of my heros). My current garage/workshop/warehouse apron cover is pure fuller inspiration. No-one would believe/understand it when i described it. Once i got the pieces all together (took the most time to paint/weatherproof the struts), it took Ruth and i ~ 2 hours to build the 36 foot x 10 ft structure which survived its 1st serious test thus last december.

In the top left brace in the survey pic (with 57% holes) "fixing" it involves running a piece from the back of the driver areas to the opposite corners triangulating the holes (and it ends up at 49% holes)

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Old 12th April 2007, 10:02 PM   #487
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Quote:
Originally posted by jackinnj
I think that if you fiberglas'd the "most holy" (sanctissimus) structure you could add a lot to the structural integrity.
Indeed. And that applies to almost any panel...

In a similar experiemnt i had one of my TL-site readers to try was "finishing" the cardboard midrange tube in his TLS80s with PVA glue. He reported very positive results.

dave
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Old 12th April 2007, 10:35 PM   #488
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Quote:
Originally posted by planet10 (Dave)


In a similar experiemnt i had one of my TL-site readers to try was "finishing" the cardboard midrange tube in his TLS80s with PVA glue. He reported very positive results.


Homemade Phenolic tubing ...

You really want to do something weird, buy some roofing paper, then use yellow carpenter's glue to build up a completly custom form out of small squares/pieces. You could build a really custom looking enclosure that way!

== John ==
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Old 12th April 2007, 11:28 PM   #489
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Buckminister Fuller...I was fortunate enough to hear him speak when I was an undergraduate in the 1960's. He inspired a friend, his dad and I to build two geodesic domes. When I left the faculty at the U of Al. in 1983 they were still serving as housing for them.
Dave, was your build a dome also?

Ray
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Old 13th April 2007, 12:05 AM   #490
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ray Collins
was your build a dome also?
Not this one... it would be classed as a tensengrity (sp?) structure.

Click the image to open in full size.

You can see it here... the major structural element is the platic tarp that is the cover. It is fixed by cedar boards at the top to the deck rail, and held out over the apron by the horizonal struts. Another set of cedar boards at the ends of the struts supply an attachment point for the other end of the tarp and a tiny bit of weight to help pull it taught. It was able to hold up to 8" of snow (i didn't let it get any deeper) during the winter storms.

I have built some domes thou... a 20 footer out of 1x1s, clear poly & staples, a 6 footer out of an HP plotter box, aluminum foil & duct tape (latest 3 years outdoors in the rain & sun as a BBQ cover before getting bad enuff to be trashed), and a 47.5 foot one made from 3/4" Al electrical conduit. We cut the pieces to length, flattened the ends in a vise, drilled a hole. We held the pieces together with carriage bolts. Took me & my brother less than an afternoon to assemble once we had all the pieces made. Just threw a tarp over it. I gave it to someone to use as a greenhouse frame and it is still in action as far as i know.

Someone should really make corner pieces that you can just plug PVC pipe into. Allow people to make a range of sizes really easily.

dave
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