Clarity on Seas Thor Kit

Re: Corian Speaker

ronzeman said:
Even with that cool CNC rig it was a fantastic accomplishment ! The cabinets must weigh a ton. At first I thought the boxes were made of corian only...little or no internals...Now I See ! WELL DONE
thanks, it certianly did require a lot of thought and engineering along with about 150 hrs of hard work, cant imagine doing it without the tools i had though
 
Thanks Ron,
Just started my Small Thor build. (finally taken the plunge after 18 months watching all your fine efforts).

As an ignoramous on diy speakers, I was hoping to find someone to mentor me thru the initial stages.

I've spent hours reading thru all the threads (yours,Greenie,Byrd,Karlxii etc etc). Have enjoyed every minute - but there is too much info spread all over the place. (It's a nightmare trying to find that bit of info/answer I read months ago....)

I was going to suggest to Scottmoose (& Planet10) start a new thread: "Small Thor Build Q&A - (an Idiots Guide.)" :xeye: ...with all the relevant bits.

Newbies can then post their build questions..... (and you "have-beens" can provide the answers and post your pics).
Thanks in advance
Mike.A
 
Dave, and SM.
What a marvelous plug you designed too!
I was listening to a new CD I got for Xmas, "Pictures from an Exhibition", I had to touch the subwoofer to make sure it was not playing. It wasn't. They don't replace subs, however they sure drive deeper than most expect for their size (drivers)

I received most of my new Xover parts for Xmas as well. Here are some of the Caps that will go in a new Xover outside the speaker.

Mike A. ,
If you start a new thread and ask your questions there, upload photos I sure others along with myself will be more than happy to help you however we can. This is a wonderful group of DIYers, very helpful.
Jump in and start asking. Don't be overwhelmed by inaction.
My curved Thors' were my first pair of speakers I ever built. I have since built 2 other pair and a MONSTER subwoofer for HT. How can I help?

PS, If you start a new thread put a link into this thread.

Ron
 

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Newby questions.

I have cut the wood and now have (most) of the the hardware. I am sure most questions have been answered in past posts, but would appreciate info on the following....
Newby questions: :xeye:
1. Swisscheesing : what is the recommended % and does it make sense to cut the holes identical for both boxes? (symmetrical)

2. Inside wall damping : (foam, bitumin or carpeting on the inside walls) Is it useful, what is best and where?

3. The Port size : is it critical? (cannot get 75mm, but can get superb quality airtight 70mm). Alternatively, can two small tubes be used or will it effect the sound?

4. Favoured port location? (I fancy front). Must it be as low down as possible?

5. Bracing : must it touch the speakers? And the tweeter?

6. Where is the best place for the cross-over? (I have the Madisound premium)

7. (Non Small Thor question) Why is the ariel tweeter offset?

Many thanks in advance for any input.
Brgrds
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Re: Newby questions.

mikeabramson said:
1. Swisscheesing : what is the recommended % and does it make sense to cut the holes identical for both boxes? (symmetrical)
2. Inside wall damping : (foam, bitumin or carpeting on the inside walls) Is it useful, what is best and where?
3. The Port size : is it critical? (cannot get 75mm, but can get superb quality airtight 70mm). Alternatively, can two small tubes be used or will it effect the sound?
4. Favoured port location? (I fancy front). Must it be as low down as possible?
5. Bracing : must it touch the speakers? And the tweeter?
6. Where is the best place for the cross-over? (I have the Madisound premium)
7. (Non Small Thor question) Why is the ariel tweeter offset?

1/ 35-40% speaker to speaker they should be close if not identical.

2/ wool or cotton felt, BAF batting, fiberglass insulation.

3/ it is critical. If you decrease the cross section you have to shorten the port. 2 ports of total cross section can be subbed

4/ where it is along the length of the box is important. It can fire out front, back side or bottom

5/ it should be firm against the magnet, but not so much pressure to stress the frame Tweeter no care.

6/ not in the box.

7/ to distribute the edge diffraction

dave
 
Re: Re: Newby questions.

planet10 said:


1/ 35-40% speaker to speaker they should be close if not identical.

2/ wool or cotton felt, BAF batting, fiberglass insulation.

3/ it is critical. If you decrease the cross section you have to shorten the port. 2 ports of total cross section can be subbed

4/ where it is along the length of the box is important. It can fire out front, back side or bottom

5/ it should be firm against the magnet, but not so much pressure to stress the frame Tweeter no care.

6/ not in the box.

7/ to distribute the edge diffraction

dave

Dave,
If I may so bold as to add to your answers;

1) don't overdo the swisscheesing......I came REAL close. I might have lost some of the weight that helps with resonance
2) Only insulate the top 1/2 of the box, maybe ~1 foot below the lower driver.
4) It depends on how close to the rear wall you can place your speakers, I ported out the front so the speaker could sit closer to the rear wall.....WAF :smash: Out the rear will add room boost. Like a subwoofer in a corner.
6) Amen to that, my new X-overs will be OUTside

Thanks again for all your work P-10

Ron

MA, Got any pics yet?
 
I’d third? that - placing the crossover externally – I’ve put mine at the base of my Small Thors but have only screwed in the MDF base but it’s removal might mess up my veneering!!.

If you are placing your crossover into the cabinet locate it “near” a driver opening where you can get a hand in to unfix it (bolts or screws?) and make sure the board is the correct shape to manoeuvre out of the driver opening – break the board into more than one if necessary.

I say near, as you don’t want to create any interference from the drivers magnet! Having said that, I’ve just place my woofer/tweeter board screamingly close to my 8” woofer in the PMS’s. Worried about this I’ve tried listening with this board away from the driver and very close and can not hear an audible effect and would not do this normally except that it is a very restricted box.

http://www.greenie512.net/greenie512/html/wip.html
 
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Joined 2001
Paid Member
Re: Re: Re: Newby questions.

Renron said:
1) don't overdo the swisscheesing......I came REAL close. I might have lost some of the weight that helps with resonance

I backed off on the percentage after seeing yours and greenie's swisscheese. You want to use the holes to let air flow freely, to break up resonances, but not so many that they compromise the structural integritiy of the brace. Some of ours likely get as low as 30%.

dave
 
troystg said:
Reputes were vented out of the bottom and sit on small stands.

Absolutely NO subwoofer required in his LARGE living room.


EDIT:

And yet they remain nude and unfinished 3-4 yrs later... :rolleyes:


Troystg,
Ditto on the subwoofer requirement, I had a professional musician over for dinner and he asked if the subwoofer was on. Nope. He was astounded by the amount of clean bass produced by the "Smalls".

Unfinished.........Tsk.....Tsk......:whazzat:

Ron