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#111 |
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diyAudio Member
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Of course that is true, not many people here would be able to afford to build the Thor's.
I guess I am one of those "privileged" white South Africans that I am sure you have all heard / seen reported in the press all these years. I am in fact so overadvantaged that the goverment has seen fit to disallow me ( as a "white" citizen ) from being a part of incentivised investment programs. As a stand against this I have disinvested from South Africa and as a result had a bit of spare cash to fund this project. I'll test the various configurations that have been suggested though I am not sure that I will be able to measure anything effectivley for you. I will need to be getting some measuring equipment soon. I have heard a Behringer mike being recommended here. Thoughts on this?
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Ross Saunders |
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#112 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Canada, Vancouver
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Quote:
Scott, did you change anything in crossover when you generated response chart? Another questions related to the drivers' position - after moving vent down, and leaving drivers in the same location, sound (air pressure, *shrug* - I'm not professional here, so sorry for the terms) inside the cabinet don't pass through whole stuffing when it goes towards the vent. How does this affect final result? As well, Scott, does your calculation take such details? as I understand you are writting thesis about those calculations...? Finally - keep doing good job, guys.. I'm tracking this thread and I'm very curious to see the final result. Never know, maybe I'll build them one day... |
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#113 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#114 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Carpentry becomes a bit tricker, but to improve the visual impact... no pedistal required.
3.5 degrees makes them good for 8-12' optimal distance. 6-16' a tad less optimal dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#115 |
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diyAudio Member
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perhaps instead of "Fat Thor" it could be renamed "Falstaff" -- the fat, jolly knighted companion in Henry IV, Pt 1 -- it is apparently going to be a project of good cheer.
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#116 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#117 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Quote:
Crossover is assumed to be the same -it doesn't affect the MathCad response anyway as it only kicks in above the 1Khz limit of these charts. Above that, it's only the drivers that are contributing, the cabinet shouldn't be doing anything other than providing them with a rigid home. The stuffing is another issue however, and a fair point. It's only really there to damp the higher harmonics -forget that nonsense about fibres moving and affecting the speed of sound etc, so the positioning isn't particularly critical in this respect. It's the driver position / distance from So that's more important. Ultimately, the quarter-waves generated in the cabinet should pass through all the stuffing anyway, so no worries there. I said the above was my last -well, OK, I couldn't resist. Sorry Dave! Final thoughts: a straight pipe is at last possibly on. So & Sm = 3.5Sd. 45" pipe length. Tweeter centred at 0.35% pipe length from top. Vent is circular and 3"x6" (WxL). Close to a BR box, but not quite -it's still a TL. Stuffing density 0.5lbs to the cubic foot. Stuff from the top to the half-way mark, or just beyond. The response is rising slightly below 100Hz -that isn't going to be too much of a problem however, and I doubt boom will be an issue, bacause we'll loose that rise through baffle-step loss. It should be pretty flat overall. And, it's a simple build. I prefer the response of the FatThor variations above frankly (love those drawings Dave, especially that last one!), but this isn't that bad either. Best Scott |
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#118 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: 1/2 way up Vancouver Island
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Hello Folks:
I though I would offer a few thoughts regarding the construction of these cabinets. The size of the baffles has me a little concerned. I think a significant amount of bracing should be included in the design. I recommend 1/2 in thick plywood that has been drilled out significantly to be mostly holes. I woould put this at the mid point across the front baffle for the top half of the cabinet then repeat it on the bottom half for the front section. This brace could be easily cut out for the drivers to act as a driver brace as well. I think Dave knows what I am suggesting, it worked very well on a set of WR125 bipoles I made. Perhaps Dave can comment. Bracing is really going to be needed the more the better! I also recommend 1.5 in or so legs off of a slightly oversized base if the bottom vent design is chosen. I have built with a slight lay back angle, it is a little tricky but definitely worth the effort. Hope this helps
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SCD |
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#119 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Planet Earth
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#120 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I wouldn't have built the thors without adding bracing. This box is bigger. dave
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