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Old 13th November 2012, 08:07 PM   #1101
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Ben,
Repost the above to your new thread, make sure to provide us with a link in this thread. We will help you and answer your questions there.
Ron
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Old 14th November 2012, 05:20 AM   #1102
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Heres a link
I hope Small Thor -Reloaded -First build
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Old 18th November 2012, 02:47 AM   #1103
Renron is offline Renron  United States
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Kinda sorta but not really related to the Thor's.
I use mine for HT as well as stereo listening. I had a Klipsh center channel speaker that I never really did like and the Odin on it's side is just asking for trouble. So, I bought the Seas coaxial and built a vented cabinet for it and it matches the sound from the Thor's Very, Very well. I am happy with the sound quality and the voices are now clear for my aging ears. The Wifee can hear men's voices better too. Everyone's a winner.
The center speaker is the same as the one MJL21193 built, only his has a curved face to match his floor standers. Nice job BTW
It's a Tony Gee USB MKII design. Looks just like his only I put the ports on the back.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/do...Mk-II_copy.pdf
Ron
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Old 30th March 2013, 09:09 AM   #1104
Calyhs is offline Calyhs  Sweden
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I'm some what a year late, but I thought of re-opening this thread.

I'm about to start a "Small Thor" build, and as everyone else, I have a few questions.

The design drawing says 19mm mdf all around, including internal bracings.
Wouldn't this result in a slight pitch fork effect? Or is it a desirable effect, kept in shape by the bracings?

The original Thor drawings showed a baffle and back wall out of 25mm MDF. While the side walls, floor and top would be 19mm MDF. Would that have any negative effect on the Small Thor design?
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Old 24th June 2013, 03:10 AM   #1105
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Default Started Fat Thor Today

Hi, as the title says I started to build my fat thor today . I have run into an issue with the drawings.

Initially I interpreted the drawing below as having the front panel screwed to the front edge of the side panels. This would make the top and bottom panels fit inside the front and side panels. Problem is when I dry assembled it to fit the
middle baffle board none of the math was right. So I made adjustments so the front panel fit inside the side panels and then the math for the baffle board was right.

Click the image to open in full size.


Then I found the picture below and this person has put the front panel screwed to the ends of the side panel . So which is it. This picture looks like the front panel is wider than 9 inches.?

Click the image to open in full size.

Hopefullly this is clear. Please point me in the right direction

Richard
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Old 24th June 2013, 04:18 AM   #1106
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Um , never mind lol. must be the heat or something. I looked at this drawing for an hour or more then the light bulb came on. I made the sidepanels too long. I made them 20 7/8 instead of 19 3/8 .
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Old 24th June 2013, 04:22 AM   #1107
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To get the driver rebates it is a loteasier if the front baffle is the full 9" width of the box.

dave
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Old 24th June 2013, 04:48 AM   #1108
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What should the calculated box volume be.
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Old 30th July 2013, 02:00 AM   #1109
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Default New Small Thor Build

I am also beginning a new 'Small Thor' build and i'm overwhelmed by the amount of dedication and time people have put into the thor designs.

Scottmoose and planet10 big respect for all the time and effort you have put in and to evenyone else thanks for all the input there really is a wealth of information on here, speakers of all kinds!

So I have a few questions regarding the small thor.

I am a furniture designer maker originally from the UK (now in Australia), I don't know much about the physics of speakers but I've been asked to make a pair for a friend.

Firstly I am unsure which kit with which crossover to buy? I know madisound do one but is it the best for the small thor design? Also is there anyone on here that does a kit? I would be very happy to support the community and even pay a few extra $ to support the 'cause'

I also have a few questions regarding the cabinetry. Things like where the crossover is mounted, is it better to use MDF over PLY when they are going to be painted anyway, and does it matter how the joinery is achieved. i.e rabbeting, domino, mitred. Does the speaker box need re-enforcing or with good joinery can the same quality speaker be achieved with 19mm all round and the bracing slotted into grooves. Is it better to have the port on the front or the back. I have lots more but I don't want to clog up the thread!

I am a prefectionist with all the things I make so these will be no exception. I appologise if I am asking questions that have already been answered, I have spent many hours reading through the posts on here and i'm looking for info specific to my build.

I plan on doing a detailed 3D drawing and a photo post of the progress here once the project gets underway. One drawn up my I will upload my drawings free for personal use if I can't do that e-mail me and I will happily send you them.

Many Thanks, James
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Old 26th August 2013, 03:39 AM   #1110
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Hello I built the small thors (first build) and I cant thank Renron, Dave and many others who helped enough. I often think about how great they were to help me. We recently sold our home and moved to a different home and had the Thors set up before the boxes were unpacked. The speakers are great. I certainly would never buy speakers again. But Renron called it -- they still are not finished. I got in a hurry and really wanted to see how they would sound. They ended up sounding so good I hate to take them out of the listening room. Last week I bolted the drivers in after having them screwed in all this time. Made an improvement to the sound. On the thread I started (above) there is a lot of good information about a first build from the people who helped me. but I would strongly recommend you do as they said not as I did. The Holey brace is can take quite a bit of time I eventually used a cheap drill press and a bimetal hole saw. that sped things up. The brace just barely touching the driver basket seems to be important when playing loud music I can feel the back of the speaker vibrating a little the other panels dont seem to be. The baltic birch plywood also seems to be important. I used MDF and ply wood for the front panel and mdf for the top and bottom to paint. (I going to paint them some day) I am sure Jims crossover is great I bought my components used so ended up with the Madisound upgraded crossover. if you look at http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...ign-help/page3 Karl build the small thor with Jims crossover and they measured great. But we are very happy with the sound the way they are. I dont think there are any joints that would be wrong. As long as they are airtight and strong enough. I just used butt joints. If you use dados or rabbits I think you need to maintain internal volume just repeating what the masters told me. External crossovers also from Renron mastery. check out his thors for real inspiration. hope that helps a little

Ben
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