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#1091 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
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Damn it, I was wrong. I'm wrong so often, I should be good at it by now.
Sorry. Dave it was your co-designer / partner in crime ScottMoose who said it. Post #556 "In reality, I was understating above -Thor would actually need ~0.75Kw to properly handle ~live level dynamic peaks." ![]() Jackinnj, Are you referring to adjusting the bias of the F5? If so, no, it's as stock as the day it was finished. R11 = .6V @ 0.V DC My F5 never gets hot, it is almost an open air build with great ventilation. As this is directly related to the Thor's (love 'em) and their power requirements, I don't consider this a thread drift. If others do, I'll move the conversation to a separate thread. Ron
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3 "I fired up the prototype. Literally." The Prophet Pass. |
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#1092 |
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diyAudio Member
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Your average out-of-the box amplifier has gain of ~26dB while the F5 is only ~15dB.
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#1093 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
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Jackinnj.
So how many W's do you feed your Thors?
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3 "I fired up the prototype. Literally." The Prophet Pass. |
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#1094 |
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diyAudio Member
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I use 4x F5's and bi-amp the Thors -- so they'll do 20 - 25W without perspiring.
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#1095 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
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Impressive. I'm sure the sound is even more impressive.
Thanks for sharing your setup. Ron
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3 "I fired up the prototype. Literally." The Prophet Pass. |
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#1096 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Lousy Anna
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Quote:
Not bad at all but not nearly an F5 or NC400's.....
__________________
Troy Thinking positive doesn't make things better, it makes you a better person. |
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#1097 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
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Quote:
Kind Regards, Hari. |
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#1098 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ontario
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Hello.
I have been looking at Speaker kits for quite some time and recently got the thor drivers and crossovers(preowned) as an xmas present. After reading all the good work done by Scottmoose, planet 10, Jim and all the others on this thread. I am going to build the small thors. This is my first project so I was wondering if there is a build instruction for the thors? I can build the cabinets but I am a little worried about simple things that can go wrong like wiring (what type of wire should I buy) and how to hook up the speakers. Any advice would be appreciated. thanks Ben |
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#1099 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Sacramento
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Mr. Tractor,
Can I call you 8n? LOL, OK Ben. Start a new thread when you are ready to start your speaker build. Post a link in this thread to your new thread. That way we can follow you and help you out when you need it. Advice? You'll get plenty of that! Don't go hog wild on expensive wire for Xovers or speaker connections. Do buy good to Very good Xover components. They will be expensive. When it comes time to build those Xovers, ask about which parts people like and the prices. Use Baltic birch plywood 3/4" at LEAST. 1/2" with 3/4" over that would be even better for the cabinets. Don't go cheap on the plywood and/or veneer. Ask a lot of questions in your thread. Show us pictures of your progress, it keeps us interested. ![]() Ron
__________________
"If it doesn't work properly, hope it catches on fire"- Nelson Pass @ BA3 "I fired up the prototype. Literally." The Prophet Pass. |
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#1100 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ontario
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Hi Ron,
Thanks for the early help. your speaker build is certainly an inspiration. I showed your speakers to my wife -- then had to show her some unfinished MDF boxes to give her more realistic expectations. Were we live (rural Ontario) I can get 3/4 MDF or Russian birch. I bought both and thought I would build the baffle and supports from MDF and the sides out of ply. After reading more I think I will build the exterior out of ply and layer at least the baffle with MDF. I am not sure about the braces. After I got the ply home it is only 5/8 and that is all the home depot has so maybe I should layer the whole cabinet with ply on the outside and MDF on the inside. which leads me to a question that I have spent quite a bit of time trying to answer reading the threads. If I chamfer the baffle say 1" on each side is the 9" baffle now 7" or is it still 9" for the baffle step correction? I will start a thread on your good advise but the drivers and crossovers are in customs so it could take quite a while to get them. I would like to finish getting the material to start on the cabinets. Its kind of funny about 25 years ago we lived in Madison and I went to Madisound, at the time they had kits but none assembled or none to listen to just components. If I had made a different choice back then I would have started this hobby a lot earlier. Thanks again Ben |
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