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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 25th August 2011, 10:15 AM   #1031
tinitus is offline tinitus  Europe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serioushifi View Post
now my images arent working....arghhh!
I suggest you use forum attachment service, like in your previous post
seems to work ok


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edit,
I see Tony is helping you
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Old 25th August 2011, 10:17 AM   #1032
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Super! Thanks guys. I wasnt complaining about diyaudio by the way. Just the fact that my images werent displaying.
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Old 25th August 2011, 10:37 AM   #1033
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Default another one.

Another one showing odin front. The centre rectangle represents the original odin baffle. This retangle protrudes from the main cabinet by 24mm.

The 2nd rectangle represents the 25mm addition for the baffle roll over curve. Rollover curve is 24.5mm. This, in essence, will increase the baffle size by 50mm in height and 50mm in width. Please note that this portion is curved.

3rd rectangle represents the outer cabinet with a width of 25mm. This accomodates the 24.5mm curve down to the protruding baffle.

So the main cabinet body will be 69mm thick mdf.But the internal volume remains the same.
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File Type: gif odin-front.gif (5.8 KB, 341 views)

Last edited by serioushifi; 25th August 2011 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 25th August 2011, 11:08 AM   #1034
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Hey,

Build the LR4 crossed at 1500Hz, that's the best sounding version IMO. The baffle design should have minimal effect on the BSC verses what I have which is a 10" wide box with 0.5" roundovers on the sides of the baffle. You can also tweak the BSC some if needed by changing the value of resistor on the woofer circuit, but I doubt you'll need to do that. In the tweeter circuit, just use a 9uF cap and 3.3 Ohm resistor (instead of the 8.7 in and 3.59 in the picture).

I sealed mine because my boxes had a 3" port so I couldn't get the tuning frequency low enough to provide a satisfactory ported response. They are commercial speakers that I modded. The W18 woofers work well vented in a large box, 2 cu. feet. A smaller box like the Odin could also work if the tuning frequency is low enough, but the deep bass will not be there. You could always try it with the 2" port and plug the port and stuff the box if you can't get the bass response right. They will sound good sealed, but need a subwoofer for 50Hz and below.

Last edited by jimangie1973; 25th August 2011 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 25th August 2011, 11:11 AM   #1035
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Originally Posted by jimangie1973 View Post
Hey,

Build the LR4 crossed at 1500Hz, that's the best sounding version IMO. The baffle design should have minimal effect on the BSC verses what I have which is a 10" wide box with 0.5" roundovers on the sides of the baffle. You can also tweak the BSC some if needed by changing the value of resistor on the woofer circuit, but I doubt you'll need to do that. In the tweeter circuit, just use a 9uF cap and 3.3 Ohm resistor (instead of the 8.7 in and 3.59 in the picture).
Is this just for convenience of component values or due to the cabinet design I want to use? Because I can get all the exact values you show on the crossover....by the way, thanks for the extensive work you have put into the xover and your quick response.
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Old 25th August 2011, 11:18 AM   #1036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimangie1973 View Post
Hey,

Build the LR4 crossed at 1500Hz, that's the best sounding version IMO. The baffle design should have minimal effect on the BSC verses what I have which is a 10" wide box with 0.5" roundovers on the sides of the baffle. You can also tweak the BSC some if needed by changing the value of resistor on the woofer circuit, but I doubt you'll need to do that. In the tweeter circuit, just use a 9uF cap and 3.3 Ohm resistor (instead of the 8.7 in and 3.59 in the picture).

I sealed mine because my boxes had a 3" port so I couldn't get the tuning frequency low enough to provide a satisfactory ported response. They are commercial speakers that I modded. The W18 woofers work well vented in a large box, 2 cu. feet. A smaller box like the Odin could also work if the tuning frequency is low enough, but the deep bass will not be there. You could always try it with the 2" port and plug the port and stuff the box if you can't get the bass response right. They will sound good sealed, but need a subwoofer for 50Hz and below.
I will probably just seal them. But will perhaps build a normal version and try the 2" port idea. Will tune them to what the original odin is and see what happens...
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Old 25th August 2011, 12:01 PM   #1037
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Originally Posted by serioushifi View Post
Is this just for convenience of component values or due to the cabinet design I want to use? Because I can get all the exact values you show on the crossover....by the way, thanks for the extensive work you have put into the xover and your quick response.
No, not just for convenience. I've gone back and forth with these values in a small window. The values I gave are about in the middle of that window.

It's not work, it's play.
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Old 26th August 2011, 08:46 PM   #1038
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I have used your picture and added what we are thinking of doing....think jamo d830 protruding baffle and curved edges.
To know about baffle step we need a top view. As far as edge diffraction you would be better to have one larger continuous round over than the stepped one you are showing.

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Old 26th August 2011, 08:48 PM   #1039
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Super! Thanks guys. I wasnt complaining about diyaudio by the way. Just the fact that my images werent displaying.
Not diyA's fault. I fixed the 1st picture link which was a mess. Better to attach images to the database, and then you also don't have to worry about your photo-posting service dissappearing your images.

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Old 26th August 2011, 08:52 PM   #1040
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Originally Posted by serioushifi View Post
The 2nd rectangle represents the 25mm addition for the baffle roll over curve. Rollover curve is 24.5mm. This, in essence, will increase the baffle size by 50mm in height and 50mm in width. Please note that this portion is curved.
The curved bit will not effect where BS occurs, and it is small enuff that it will impact the smoothness of the transition only a little. 2" wider baffle will push the transition frequency down a little bit.

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