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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Well I thought I'd give it a whirl...still have acouple more days left on the first one to make sure everything will work out as planned...basically the setup will be :
seas Seas T25CF002-06 Millenniums Seas W22Eoo2 Seas W26 The bottom portion"triangle" will be wrapped in a veneer with a front firing Seas W26 the top portion will be smoothed and painted a candy burgandy with a veneer inlay... I'll post more pics when I get further
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
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Will you call them Snake Charmer ?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I am hoping to mate them with a DEQX.... it still has a ton more left as far as finishing...
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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In the third pic down, just what are you doing with the hand that isn't holding the baffle?!?
I'm surprised you've gone the W22 for mid range though, I would have maybe gone for the W18. From my measurements the cone break up starts at 2.7Khz with a broad peak at 3.5Khz. Where are you crossing to the treble and what rolloff? Nice to see someone use the Crescendo treble BTW. EDIT: My bad, your using the millenium and not the crescendo. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bremerton, WA.
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Interesting.
I don't think I'd be concerned about the high end of the W22. Rather the low end. That's an awfully small baffle with a very good front/back short circuit path. You're going to have to equalize the heck out of that thing to go fairly low in frequency. Maybe you're planning on running the W26 driver fairly high, say 300-400 Hz? It's also very unclear what the polar response will look like. Cheers, Davey. |
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#6 |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tampa
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Davey,
I thought the same thing. Which then begs the question, Tru, you're going OB above the modal region and closed in ? Thats interesting, although I've seen it on Troels(sp) site before. Love your woodwork, wish I was half that good cheers, AJ |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stockholm
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I'd be a bit concerned about the baffle step for the tweeter. The distance to the edge is almost identical for more than half of the turn. That will lead to ripple in the response, like in the simulation below. The simulation is a guess with the baffle measures estimated from the pictures.
But I agree with the others on the cool look of the project!
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks guys for the input...this is my first wack at it...and I have a few changes for the second set...basically this first one it to see if I can get the materials to do what I want...then the next set will be to fine tune and problems with the shape of the baffle.. I am hoping to start working with acouple of local interior design shops and start making loudpseakers that can be custom made and designed for the WAF and still give incredible performance per house or buisness etc... My other plan is to build unconventional peice see the rough drawing
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Stockholm
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I think you'd be doing the same mistake again if you built those. The distance between the tweeter dome and the edge of the baffle should vary over the turn. The way you have drawn it, with a circular circumference around the tweeter (and woofer) will yield a strong ripple in the baffle step. At least, try The Edge in my signature, to simulate the baffle step. You will find that an ordinary rectangular baffle is pretty good. A friend of mine got very aware of this problem as he built these:
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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more pics of the progress of my baffles...
The back is finished for the most part and tommorrow it's off to the front... http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/randy_...75.jpg&.src=ph http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/randy_...d4.jpg&.src=ph http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/randy_...c2.jpg&.src=ph http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/randy_...ac.jpg&.src=ph these are pics of my budy rick holding the drivers in place http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/randy_...dd.jpg&.src=ph http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/randy_...0f.jpg&.src=ph http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/randy_...5f.jpg&.src=ph |
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