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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West London
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I thought I would try using Bonda wood hardener on the speakers I'm building - Shin mentioned it and since he seems to know roughly what he's on about
Anyway... Bloody good stuff - it's a very thin liquid resin - the viscosity or water or thereabouts, it soaks right into MDF and really does change the properties. I sprayed it on using a trigger pull sprayer - no problems although it took about 4 days to wear off my arm where I accidentally sprayed myself.... The most obvious effect is how much better the finish after sanding down is, very smooth indeed - almost like plastic and I didn't get the typical furry finish after priming the cabs with the first coat of MDF primer either. It did however take a lot longer to sand the cabs down because the MDF is that much tougher. I may use a couple of thin strips of MDF to test how much stronger it is by seeing how much mass is required to snap a treated bit Vs an untreated bit. Anyway, just thought I would pop that down - Bonda is deffo worth a try. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Great Stuff Mike,
Your the first that I've heard from who's tried this and it sounds like you've got the same results I did, which is always good. The original thread along with a UK link to purchase this stuff for anyone else interested: A solution to MDF expansion on joints, translams etc. Its also dirt cheap for the hassle it saves. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Planet Earth
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Interesting guys. I'm going to try to find something like that. A quick Google turned up a couple of products available here in the US.
Minwax has a solvent-based one, should be able to get it in most paint stores: http://www.minwax.com/products/woodmaint/hardener.cfm PC Products has a water-based one: http://www.pcepoxy.com/woodproducts/woodpetrif.asp Does the Bonda have a solvent (acetone?) smell? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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I suppose you are using this on MDF you'll build a speaker with.
Do you use it before the parts together or afterwards? What kind of glue are you using? Seen any reaction between glue and the wood hardener?
__________________
Gravity - Making the G since 13.7 billion B.C. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
Definitely use once you've finshed construction. You'd almost certainly have issue's glueing surfaces together since after you apply the stuff the treated surface is non porous. I use regular weatherproof Evostik Resin W glue. No reaction whatsoever with the glue. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West London
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Quote:
I would think the minwax product is pretty close to Bonda, it doesn't say it uses the moisture in the wood to cure but whether that makes a difference or not, I don't know. |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Wood hardener | AuroraB | Everything Else | 9 | 28th August 2007 03:55 PM |
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| Recommended diy Pre for T-amp | t. | Class D | 12 | 21st June 2005 09:56 AM |
| MINWAX wood hardener | amo | Multi-Way | 9 | 21st January 2004 10:26 PM |
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