I'm planning on building a crossover for my diy project and I notice that different software gives me different parts values even though it's cross at the same frequency. So I was wondering what's up with that. Here's an example of a simple 2-way 12db crossover network for 8ohm driver:
Software 1 shows: C1 - 3.98uF L1 - 1.01mH C2 - 3.98uF L2 - 1.01mH
Software 2 shows: C1 - 11.25uF L1 - 0.72mH C2 - 5.62uF L2 - 0.36mH
The C1 and L1 are LP
Which one is accurate and how do I know?
Software 1 shows: C1 - 3.98uF L1 - 1.01mH C2 - 3.98uF L2 - 1.01mH
Software 2 shows: C1 - 11.25uF L1 - 0.72mH C2 - 5.62uF L2 - 0.36mH
The C1 and L1 are LP
Which one is accurate and how do I know?
I make the first one a second order Linkwitz-Riley at 2500Hz.
The second seems quite wrong - if you have 2nd order Butterworth filter for a 4ohm tweeter and an 8ohm woofer, your high-pass will be 11.25uF & 0.36mH and your low-pass will be 5.62uF & 0.72mH. You seem to have these written out in the wrong combination, unless it's a series crossover. But the values are right for a Butterworth.
What speakers are you using, as I doubt they'll actually measure at 8ohms, and especially not through-out the range your going to be crossing over at. If this is your first speaker, then I'd suggest 'borrowing' what someone else has done with your drivers and then tweak it after you've got it working (only if you don't like the sound).
The second seems quite wrong - if you have 2nd order Butterworth filter for a 4ohm tweeter and an 8ohm woofer, your high-pass will be 11.25uF & 0.36mH and your low-pass will be 5.62uF & 0.72mH. You seem to have these written out in the wrong combination, unless it's a series crossover. But the values are right for a Butterworth.
What speakers are you using, as I doubt they'll actually measure at 8ohms, and especially not through-out the range your going to be crossing over at. If this is your first speaker, then I'd suggest 'borrowing' what someone else has done with your drivers and then tweak it after you've got it working (only if you don't like the sound).
Are you using a Dayton RS-150S with an LCY100? Or is it another Dayton 6" That I don't know about?
I think you'll find that the LCY outperforms the Dayton in all respects. You may actually find yourself unhappy with the tweeter sound when it's actually the cone break-up of the woofer causing your problems.
You'll also have to pad the woofer a fair bit to match your tweeter. Have you thought about something else (I I think the Daytons are <$30 and the LCYs are nearly $200 -each)? Have you thought about one of the middle level PHLs instead (1310s are available from Zalytron at $85ea and 1360's are $88). They would be more of a match in terms of dynamics, sound quality, and power handling (as well as more evenly being matched regarding SPL).
I think you'll find that the LCY outperforms the Dayton in all respects. You may actually find yourself unhappy with the tweeter sound when it's actually the cone break-up of the woofer causing your problems.
You'll also have to pad the woofer a fair bit to match your tweeter. Have you thought about something else (I I think the Daytons are <$30 and the LCYs are nearly $200 -each)? Have you thought about one of the middle level PHLs instead (1310s are available from Zalytron at $85ea and 1360's are $88). They would be more of a match in terms of dynamics, sound quality, and power handling (as well as more evenly being matched regarding SPL).
Yes I am refering to the Datyon RS150S.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-362
I borrowed a pair from a friend of mine and we tried running it active with the LCY110 and it sounds really good. I will have to L-pad the ribbon down to match with the dayton.
I already own the LCY110 and the 130. I got it at a really good price. So I'm sticking with that plus they are the best sounding tweeter I've ever heard so Im very happy with them. I decided to go with the dayton reference because I like the detail mids from the seas excels and the overall sound and the datyon has been tested to have similar performance at literally a fraction of the cost.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-362
I borrowed a pair from a friend of mine and we tried running it active with the LCY110 and it sounds really good. I will have to L-pad the ribbon down to match with the dayton.
I already own the LCY110 and the 130. I got it at a really good price. So I'm sticking with that plus they are the best sounding tweeter I've ever heard so Im very happy with them. I decided to go with the dayton reference because I like the detail mids from the seas excels and the overall sound and the datyon has been tested to have similar performance at literally a fraction of the cost.
Sorry about the time gap, but I don't have email on the weekend (currently).
Have you thought about 2 Daytons on each side (either in series or parallel depending on your amplification)? That would probably solve most of your padding needs (padding the LCY does seem a shame).
I found a site on the web where 2 of these were used with 2 different types of tweeters. Try http://www.eldamar.net/audio/RS150MTM/ and see if you can find something useful in there. As they've included a Zobel for the RS0150 pair, you'll find that the cross-over will work better for you.
Have you thought about 2 Daytons on each side (either in series or parallel depending on your amplification)? That would probably solve most of your padding needs (padding the LCY does seem a shame).
I found a site on the web where 2 of these were used with 2 different types of tweeters. Try http://www.eldamar.net/audio/RS150MTM/ and see if you can find something useful in there. As they've included a Zobel for the RS0150 pair, you'll find that the cross-over will work better for you.
I was thinking about going with dual reference, but I want more low end for my room since im not going to be using a sub. I already have those LCY110 so Im sticking with that. Also I didn't want to build towers cause my space is limited so this is probably my best bet, plus im on a budget..lol
Having never used either driver, I can't really comment.
BUT
, the site I mentioned said he was having 'trouble' with the unit(s) when there was significant low bass below 40Hz. Note that there are 3 designs on this page - a tower, a ported box and a sealed box.
If you haven't already purchased the Daytons, you might want to look around a bit more. For the cost of 4 RS-150Ss, you could probably pick up something else to match the LCYs. I think Zalytron have some specials on some of the Focal drivers, and I think they've got CA18 SEAS drivers for under $50 also.
BUT
, the site I mentioned said he was having 'trouble' with the unit(s) when there was significant low bass below 40Hz. Note that there are 3 designs on this page - a tower, a ported box and a sealed box.
If you haven't already purchased the Daytons, you might want to look around a bit more. For the cost of 4 RS-150Ss, you could probably pick up something else to match the LCYs. I think Zalytron have some specials on some of the Focal drivers, and I think they've got CA18 SEAS drivers for under $50 also.
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