Im pretty much a newbie at all of this, but recently got the opportunity to get any drivers from
http://www.nuera-acoustic.ca
that I wanted in trade for some capacitors (11,000 mfd 80 volt)
So I was trying to figure out what drivers to get and make a fairly simple system with.
I was thinking to do a pair with:
(2)w8-740c 8"sub
(1) w4-657 4"mid/full
(1) 25-302s 1" dome tweets
per unit using a 2 way crossover, and an extra capacitor to high pass the tweet at 10k or so.
Any advise, comments, driver substitions would be welcome.
thanks
http://www.nuera-acoustic.ca
that I wanted in trade for some capacitors (11,000 mfd 80 volt)
So I was trying to figure out what drivers to get and make a fairly simple system with.
I was thinking to do a pair with:
(2)w8-740c 8"sub
(1) w4-657 4"mid/full
(1) 25-302s 1" dome tweets
per unit using a 2 way crossover, and an extra capacitor to high pass the tweet at 10k or so.
Any advise, comments, driver substitions would be welcome.
thanks
I know you're doing a trade thing but the Tangband W4-654S available from parts express for $12.25 (quan. 4) is free of the nasty peak in the 8K area that the 657 has.
I think a simple first order crossover at about 6K would be a better choice than an single cap to bring in the tweet at 10K.
And, I don't think you should think of the 8" as a sub. since you will probably want to cross somewhere around 400Hz.
Do it right and you should have a tasty little system.
I think a simple first order crossover at about 6K would be a better choice than an single cap to bring in the tweet at 10K.
And, I don't think you should think of the 8" as a sub. since you will probably want to cross somewhere around 400Hz.
Do it right and you should have a tasty little system.
I think it would make a nice 3 way but after looking at the curve on the 8 incher, I might nudge the crossover down to 300-350Hz.
You might be able to get away with first order slopes all around but the response of the woofer is kind of sketchy - it's not smooth but at least there aren't an nasty peaks.
Remember, it won' be enough to just mount the mid and tweet to a flat baffle. You want to get the <i>acoustic centers</i> on the same plane.
You might be able to get away with first order slopes all around but the response of the woofer is kind of sketchy - it's not smooth but at least there aren't an nasty peaks.
Remember, it won' be enough to just mount the mid and tweet to a flat baffle. You want to get the <i>acoustic centers</i> on the same plane.
how do you determine the acoustic center of a driver? the center of the cone when it is at rest? Is htis why some speakers have non vertial front baffles? Would using a thick baffle and routing drivers to different depths be a correct approach? Where can I learn more about this? I only have automotive and sub building experience, so never had to deal with golden ratio or passive crossovers and all this other stuff I keep finding more of 
It's difficult to know the acoustic center because it varies with frequency.
The best you can probably hope for is to use the front of the voice coil as a reference. Yes, the concept of sloped baffels is to align the voice coils. It's often called time alignment.
Since you are a beginner, I would suggest that you just flush mount to the baffle and tilt the completed system so that the mid and tweet voice coils are in the same plane - it should be close enough. Or you can built the enclosure so that the baffle is appropriately sloped. If you route to move the tweet far enough back, the rim of the hole will cause new problems.
Realize that I am being picky here. This whole thing is fairly complex and requires a great deal of understanding, experience and some certain amount of test equipment.
If you're serious about DIY speaker design you should get a copy of "The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook."
I'm offering my advise here because you didn't initially come off as a dummy like many other newbies who's posts I've read. Still, I can't hold you hand through the whole process. Grab a basic understanding from the Cookbook and maybe I can fill in the blanks.
The best you can probably hope for is to use the front of the voice coil as a reference. Yes, the concept of sloped baffels is to align the voice coils. It's often called time alignment.
Since you are a beginner, I would suggest that you just flush mount to the baffle and tilt the completed system so that the mid and tweet voice coils are in the same plane - it should be close enough. Or you can built the enclosure so that the baffle is appropriately sloped. If you route to move the tweet far enough back, the rim of the hole will cause new problems.
Realize that I am being picky here. This whole thing is fairly complex and requires a great deal of understanding, experience and some certain amount of test equipment.
If you're serious about DIY speaker design you should get a copy of "The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook."
I'm offering my advise here because you didn't initially come off as a dummy like many other newbies who's posts I've read. Still, I can't hold you hand through the whole process. Grab a basic understanding from the Cookbook and maybe I can fill in the blanks.
W4-657S and the 25-302S
The W4-657S is a very good driver even with the hill at the end of the scale.
Over the 656-654-655 the 657S has more power handling, way more excursion over the others.
With no problem with distortion.
The peak can be tammed very easy.
And other will say so also.
A proper order and the bump is gone.
I have built a few of the W4-657S in a MT, MTM using the 25-302S as I was involved with Nuera but am not anylonger.
I am in the middle of building my own HT using the W4-657S and the W3-871S as the mid.
tweeter I went with a TC from Vifa as my designer.Rick Craig is mad about the TC tweeters for the money.
Even though I have a dozen of the 25-302S and the 28-847S on hand also.
The 25-302S is bang on a few points with the TM025F-9.
Same in almost evey point of a scale along with a drop in replacment and no crossover point will show.
On the W8 you can see some of my reviews on the PE board till I am done a comparison to the MCM 55-2421.
I am not going to go into ripping any of these drivers as has stated they are all a very good bargen for the price.Once you use on of the W4 what ever one you use you will be very happy with the quality for the price.
Anyway good luck in your project.
Al
PS Bill have you ordered or tried the W3-871S as I know you were very unhappy with the W3-593S specs from TB.
Just had to ask.
The W4-657S is a very good driver even with the hill at the end of the scale.
Over the 656-654-655 the 657S has more power handling, way more excursion over the others.
With no problem with distortion.
The peak can be tammed very easy.
And other will say so also.
A proper order and the bump is gone.
I have built a few of the W4-657S in a MT, MTM using the 25-302S as I was involved with Nuera but am not anylonger.
I am in the middle of building my own HT using the W4-657S and the W3-871S as the mid.
tweeter I went with a TC from Vifa as my designer.Rick Craig is mad about the TC tweeters for the money.
Even though I have a dozen of the 25-302S and the 28-847S on hand also.
The 25-302S is bang on a few points with the TM025F-9.
Same in almost evey point of a scale along with a drop in replacment and no crossover point will show.
On the W8 you can see some of my reviews on the PE board till I am done a comparison to the MCM 55-2421.
I am not going to go into ripping any of these drivers as has stated they are all a very good bargen for the price.Once you use on of the W4 what ever one you use you will be very happy with the quality for the price.
Anyway good luck in your project.
Al
PS Bill have you ordered or tried the W3-871S as I know you were very unhappy with the W3-593S specs from TB.
Just had to ask.
I wasn't very unhappy with the specs. Measurement just didn't equal the specs in a couple of areas, particularly Rf. The specs said 110Hz but measurments were 135Hz. I'm looking at the 654 because the specs say 65Hz. In reality they may be 90Hz, which is good for us.
Say, are you sure that you are not still working for NuEra? I go to your homepage and wind up at NuEra.
Your post smacks of advertising to me.
Say, are you sure that you are not still working for NuEra? I go to your homepage and wind up at NuEra.
Your post smacks of advertising to me.
Bill, his post is far from advertising.
As it stands right now, he's just another DIYer like the rest of us, albeit one which probably has the most experience with the TB product line than any.
I happen to know that he has absolutely *nothing* to do with Nuera anymore - in any aspect whatsoever.
It might sound like advertising, but it's not.
As it stands right now, he's just another DIYer like the rest of us, albeit one which probably has the most experience with the TB product line than any.
I happen to know that he has absolutely *nothing* to do with Nuera anymore - in any aspect whatsoever.
It might sound like advertising, but it's not.
Tb/Nuera ? Al aka RAW.
No I have been no longer involved with Nuera for a few months now, the site belongs to Billy Lau (Nuera ).
I have lots of cabinets I had made for the testing of many designs all at my coin, and got stuck with all of these empty cabinets.
All of which were to make designs to post for others to build and use for free.
all 40 sets.
Off that anyway ya I agree totally with you on the 593S specs a Joke to say the least. not even close to the posted specs.
But I was just banging my head with others about getting correct data posted on the Web.This will never happen.
This happened with the W8 so the specs were changed and the W8 had a C added to the end to account for the new model.
On the other end of the scale Bill the 655 is a better longer range out of all the drivers with out a peak to speak of.
But Nuera or PE has grabbed it yet.!!!
will have to see about the new W4 Billy just told me about he has with a Neo motor!!
No I have been no longer involved with Nuera for a few months now, the site belongs to Billy Lau (Nuera ).
I have lots of cabinets I had made for the testing of many designs all at my coin, and got stuck with all of these empty cabinets.
All of which were to make designs to post for others to build and use for free.
all 40 sets.
Off that anyway ya I agree totally with you on the 593S specs a Joke to say the least. not even close to the posted specs.
But I was just banging my head with others about getting correct data posted on the Web.This will never happen.
This happened with the W8 so the specs were changed and the W8 had a C added to the end to account for the new model.
On the other end of the scale Bill the 655 is a better longer range out of all the drivers with out a peak to speak of.
But Nuera or PE has grabbed it yet.!!!
will have to see about the new W4 Billy just told me about he has with a Neo motor!!
SPIKE YOU SAY!!
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kidder/Audio/Drivers/RCM_525/RCM_525.htm
$40.00 USD for a 14 db jump hill as seen above
http://www.boomspeed.com/wrnch22/RImage-03.jpg
Or the $18.00 USD 8-9db jump from the W4 -657S.
I think enough has been said on the W4.
Al
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kidder/Audio/Drivers/RCM_525/RCM_525.htm
$40.00 USD for a 14 db jump hill as seen above
http://www.boomspeed.com/wrnch22/RImage-03.jpg
Or the $18.00 USD 8-9db jump from the W4 -657S.
I think enough has been said on the W4.
Al
W4-656S
I just bought 2 656's from PE. Anyone used these before? This will be my first set of hi-fi D I Y. Im decided on my tweeter selection and box design. I just really liked the freq responce of this driver at the price offered--and I just had to buy a set of drivers or I was going to search and change my mind foever. I want to build a nice set of musical mains for 'our' HT (my gf will call these 'her' speakers) I really dont have any fancy modeling software and dont know where to start as far as tweeter/crossover goes.
Any help would be cool...
I just bought 2 656's from PE. Anyone used these before? This will be my first set of hi-fi D I Y. Im decided on my tweeter selection and box design. I just really liked the freq responce of this driver at the price offered--and I just had to buy a set of drivers or I was going to search and change my mind foever. I want to build a nice set of musical mains for 'our' HT (my gf will call these 'her' speakers) I really dont have any fancy modeling software and dont know where to start as far as tweeter/crossover goes.
Any help would be cool...
silly typo
In my last post I typed 'decided on my design' and ment to type 'un-decided on my design' I want to build something differant that a vanilla sealed rectangle. My GF wants them to be astheticly pleasing and she wants them to really sound good (is it posible?!? jk)
So I would like to try something simple yet differant. like a terminated line or a Voit Pipe or di-pole.
This maybe getting off subject. If so I will start a new thread.
In my last post I typed 'decided on my design' and ment to type 'un-decided on my design' I want to build something differant that a vanilla sealed rectangle. My GF wants them to be astheticly pleasing and she wants them to really sound good (is it posible?!? jk)
So I would like to try something simple yet differant. like a terminated line or a Voit Pipe or di-pole.
This maybe getting off subject. If so I will start a new thread.
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