Tang Band driver opinions

Jared · 27th September 2002, 10:29 PM

Im pretty much a newbie at all of this, but recently got the opportunity to get any drivers from
http://www.nuera-acoustic.ca
that I wanted in trade for some capacitors (11,000 mfd 80 volt)

So I was trying to figure out what drivers to get and make a fairly simple system with.
I was thinking to do a pair with:
(2)w8-740c 8"sub
(1) w4-657 4"mid/full
(1) 25-302s 1" dome tweets
per unit using a 2 way crossover, and an extra capacitor to high pass the tweet at 10k or so.

Any advise, comments, driver substitions would be welcome.
thanks

Jared · 29th September 2002, 07:54 PM

46 views and nobody can give me any advice one way or another?? I figured someone had some TB driver experience and could say yay or nay to the choices i made?

Bill Fitzpatrick · 29th September 2002, 10:08 PM

I know you're doing a trade thing but the Tangband W4-654S available from parts express for $12.25 (quan. 4) is free of the nasty peak in the 8K area that the 657 has.

I think a simple first order crossover at about 6K would be a better choice than an single cap to bring in the tweet at 10K.

And, I don't think you should think of the 8" as a sub. since you will probably want to cross somewhere around 400Hz.

Do it right and you should have a tasty little system.

Jared · 30th September 2002, 12:25 AM

I didnt really consider that hump, I didnt look at eh scale well enough to realize how large it was !

Would a 3 way crossover be a much better idea then, in order to bandpass the mid in the 400-5.5k range then?

Bill Fitzpatrick · 30th September 2002, 01:03 AM

I think it would make a nice 3 way but after looking at the curve on the 8 incher, I might nudge the crossover down to 300-350Hz.

You might be able to get away with first order slopes all around but the response of the woofer is kind of sketchy - it's not smooth but at least there aren't an nasty peaks.

Remember, it won' be enough to just mount the mid and tweet to a flat baffle. You want to get the <i>acoustic centers</i> on the same plane.

Jared · 30th September 2002, 02:00 AM

how do you determine the acoustic center of a driver? the center of the cone when it is at rest? Is htis why some speakers have non vertial front baffles? Would using a thick baffle and routing drivers to different depths be a correct approach? Where can I learn more about this? I only have automotive and sub building experience, so never had to deal with golden ratio or passive crossovers and all this other stuff I keep finding more of

Bill Fitzpatrick · 30th September 2002, 03:17 AM

It's difficult to know the acoustic center because it varies with frequency.

The best you can probably hope for is to use the front of the voice coil as a reference. Yes, the concept of sloped baffels is to align the voice coils. It's often called time alignment.

Since you are a beginner, I would suggest that you just flush mount to the baffle and tilt the completed system so that the mid and tweet voice coils are in the same plane - it should be close enough. Or you can built the enclosure so that the baffle is appropriately sloped. If you route to move the tweet far enough back, the rim of the hole will cause new problems.

Realize that I am being picky here. This whole thing is fairly complex and requires a great deal of understanding, experience and some certain amount of test equipment.

If you're serious about DIY speaker design you should get a copy of "The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook."

I'm offering my advise here because you didn't initially come off as a dummy like many other newbies who's posts I've read. Still, I can't hold you hand through the whole process. Grab a basic understanding from the Cookbook and maybe I can fill in the blanks.

Kilowatt · 30th September 2002, 05:14 AM

I got TB W4-656S drivers from Parts Express for my system. I chose them because of their oustanding frequency response, allowing me to cross my tweeters over very high.

Jared · 30th September 2002, 12:39 PM

owell, turns out the trade fell through. thanks for your help anyways Bill. I have the 2 radioshack books on speaker building, "Building Speaker Systems" and "Advanced Speaker Systems" but they really dont cover too mand advanced topics.

swirv · 30th September 2002, 07:41 PM

Killowatt , what tweeter are you using with your 656S? I just ordered a pair--PartsExpress had them on sale.

27th September 2002, 10:29 PM	#1
Jared diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Raleigh NC	Tang Band driver opinions Im pretty much a newbie at all of this, but recently got the opportunity to get any drivers from http://www.nuera-acoustic.ca that I wanted in trade for some capacitors (11,000 mfd 80 volt) So I was trying to figure out what drivers to get and make a fairly simple system with. I was thinking to do a pair with: (2)w8-740c 8"sub (1) w4-657 4"mid/full (1) 25-302s 1" dome tweets per unit using a 2 way crossover, and an extra capacitor to high pass the tweet at 10k or so. Any advise, comments, driver substitions would be welcome. thanks

30th September 2002, 05:14 AM	#8
Kilowatt diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Harlowton, MT, USA	I got TB W4-656S drivers from Parts Express for my system. I chose them because of their oustanding frequency response, allowing me to cross my tweeters over very high. __________________ - "With power amplifiers, negative feedback is a good thing, and positive feedback can induce destructive oscillation, but with people, positive feedback is a good thing, and negative feedback can induce destructive oscillation"

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29th September 2002, 07:54 PM	#2
Jared diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Raleigh NC	46 views and nobody can give me any advice one way or another?? I figured someone had some TB driver experience and could say yay or nay to the choices i made?

29th September 2002, 10:08 PM	#3
Bill Fitzpatrick diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Eugene, OR	I know you're doing a trade thing but the Tangband W4-654S available from parts express for $12.25 (quan. 4) is free of the nasty peak in the 8K area that the 657 has. I think a simple first order crossover at about 6K would be a better choice than an single cap to bring in the tweet at 10K. And, I don't think you should think of the 8" as a sub. since you will probably want to cross somewhere around 400Hz. Do it right and you should have a tasty little system.

30th September 2002, 12:25 AM	#4
Jared diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Raleigh NC	I didnt really consider that hump, I didnt look at eh scale well enough to realize how large it was ! Would a 3 way crossover be a much better idea then, in order to bandpass the mid in the 400-5.5k range then?

30th September 2002, 01:03 AM	#5
Bill Fitzpatrick diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Eugene, OR	I think it would make a nice 3 way but after looking at the curve on the 8 incher, I might nudge the crossover down to 300-350Hz. You might be able to get away with first order slopes all around but the response of the woofer is kind of sketchy - it's not smooth but at least there aren't an nasty peaks. Remember, it won' be enough to just mount the mid and tweet to a flat baffle. You want to get the <i>acoustic centers</i> on the same plane.

30th September 2002, 02:00 AM	#6
Jared diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Raleigh NC	how do you determine the acoustic center of a driver? the center of the cone when it is at rest? Is htis why some speakers have non vertial front baffles? Would using a thick baffle and routing drivers to different depths be a correct approach? Where can I learn more about this? I only have automotive and sub building experience, so never had to deal with golden ratio or passive crossovers and all this other stuff I keep finding more of

30th September 2002, 03:17 AM	#7
Bill Fitzpatrick diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Eugene, OR	It's difficult to know the acoustic center because it varies with frequency. The best you can probably hope for is to use the front of the voice coil as a reference. Yes, the concept of sloped baffels is to align the voice coils. It's often called time alignment. Since you are a beginner, I would suggest that you just flush mount to the baffle and tilt the completed system so that the mid and tweet voice coils are in the same plane - it should be close enough. Or you can built the enclosure so that the baffle is appropriately sloped. If you route to move the tweet far enough back, the rim of the hole will cause new problems. Realize that I am being picky here. This whole thing is fairly complex and requires a great deal of understanding, experience and some certain amount of test equipment. If you're serious about DIY speaker design you should get a copy of "The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook." I'm offering my advise here because you didn't initially come off as a dummy like many other newbies who's posts I've read. Still, I can't hold you hand through the whole process. Grab a basic understanding from the Cookbook and maybe I can fill in the blanks.

30th September 2002, 12:39 PM	#9
Jared diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Raleigh NC	owell, turns out the trade fell through. thanks for your help anyways Bill. I have the 2 radioshack books on speaker building, "Building Speaker Systems" and "Advanced Speaker Systems" but they really dont cover too mand advanced topics.

30th September 2002, 07:41 PM	#10
swirv diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: South Carolina	Killowatt , what tweeter are you using with your 656S? I just ordered a pair--PartsExpress had them on sale.

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