Low wattage, high efficiency, high quality?
Hi there I have recently inherited a small Sansui 117 Integrated amplifier. I remember this amp used to sound realy good, but I will need to source some speakers for it.
The problem is that it is a very low wattage amp. I found a page online with some specifications, which I will add just now.
Now from what I have read on this forum, the sound level or volume generated is not just a product of the number of watts being chased to a speaker, and that the sensitivity of the speaker can add alot to the total power.
Now I know its not 1978 anymore but is it still possible to get good high efficiency speakers (and what is the minimum level I should settle for)?
Also what wattage rating should the speakers carry?
The goal is not overpowering loudness (lol) but rather just to have enough power to sufficienty drive the lower bass ranges.
I have a set of QLN number 1 monitor speakers (GBP1000+) but they are rated at 100W and require quite a strong amp to drive them sufficiently as they are totaly sealed enclosures of immense wheight. Am I right if I assume that this amp will destroy these speakers?
I am insistent on using this amp as it has one of the nicest phono equalisers I have ever heard. +-.05dB of the RIAA equalisation curve from 30Hz to 15KHz
So please you audio wizzards can you suggest a set of speakers, or suitable drivers for DIY speakers (I can do woodwork and went through all 101 experiments in my electronics kit as a child, so I have basic electronic litiracy too lol.)
haha, ok remembered that I forgot to add the specs *** I clicked the button, but I'm new, so it takes a while before I can edit my message.....
15watt into 8 ohms
20watts into 4 ohms
18watts into 8 ohms (?)
load impendance 8 ohms
Just to recap, I need to find out which wattage, impendance and efficiency speakers would be recommended....
What you want to avoid is clipping. Say I have a speaker rated for 50 watts. All it tells me is that it won't burn up - unless I pump more then 50 watts of clipping power to it. I won't hesitate to run 300 watts or even 900 watts to a 50 watt speaker. The Xmax on the driver will come into play before burnout. The cone will start slapping and bottoming out or a woofer whooshing and not creating music.
Imagine 109 db at only one watt! :)
Today I'm going to purchase some 1/2" plywood to start on one of his designs. The 'David"...
David 'The Giant Killer' 3 Way Stereo/HT Tower;
I'm just starting out on the High Efficiency designs myself. I've built Sealed, Ported, Transmission Lines, 4th order BandPass and Dual-Chambered Bass Reflex boxes, also on my list is an Aperiodic box. Starting on that one tomorrow. :)
I also had these on my drawing board;
Two of these in parallel (sealed or ported box) for a total of 101 db, until I found Bill's site, where I could get more db's with a horn loaded enclosure.
Hope others jump in with their designs. I'd like to get more ideas on horn HQ systems. Especially what they're using for midrange and tweeters. :)
Rj many thanks for the reply, The wife and me flew to The Palace at Suncity last night, so I couldn't thank you sooner.
I always thought I know alot about sound (which comes with haveing big ears) until I got to this site (well, in the land of the blind...)
How would solid Oak, or maybe Iroko (similar to teak but drier and more brittle) perform compared to plywood?
1 more question, does the speaker box design influence the efficiency of the driver placed in it, or is the value you get on the specs where its at? I.e. can a 96db @ 1 watt driver be made a 105db speaker box?
Sorry if I sound dumb, but alot of the stuff sounds quite counter intuitive to the uninitiated like me....
Solid hardwood is great, as long as it's well seasoned, and not used in panels more than about 8" wide. Any larger, then the expansion and contraction will cause splitting.
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