Best way to connect top to bottom

minh_827 · 29th August 2005, 02:27 PM

What is the best way to connect the top to the bottom of my loudspeaker so that it can be remove easily? I'm thinking of connecting them permanently together but that is toooo heavy. This is my first diy speaker so please help me out. I'm stucked in this phase and cannot complete the project. All advice and commets are wellcome.

Thanks Minh

Audiophilenoob · 29th August 2005, 03:29 PM

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-367

something like this on the underside is what I use

about 4 per top should provide quite a bit of shear strength and should be easy to remove vertically

I've used them in the past and they are very hard to break (even though they're plastic) if sheared...

and they're cheap if you do break one

K-amps · 29th August 2005, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by minh_827
What is the best way to connect the top to the bottom of my loudspeaker so that it can be remove easily? I'm thinking of connecting them permanently together but that is toooo heavy. This is my first diy speaker so please help me out. I'm stucked in this phase and cannot complete the project. All advice and commets are wellcome.

Thanks Minh

This is a riot, a cordless, some hotsauce and the KRS's....

minh_827 · 6th September 2005, 03:24 AM

THANKS Audiophilenoob for the help, but I think there too weak to support the top cabinet. It's really heavy. I used constraint layer damping. Front baffle is 3 layer of 3/4 mdf, 1/8 vinly damping from acoustical solution, 1'' mdf

minh_827 · 6th September 2005, 03:26 AM

K-amps, thats the kas's not krs's

Audiophilenoob · 6th September 2005, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by minh_827
THANKS Audiophilenoob for the help, but I think there too weak to support the top cabinet. It's really heavy. I used constraint layer damping. Front baffle is 3 layer of 3/4 mdf, 1/8 vinly damping from acoustical solution, 1'' mdf

I think you're underestimating how much force it would take to break these with a shear

probably you would have to tip the whole cabinet over and hold it in the air side ways and just let the top fall

I don't think you plan to do that do you?

minh_827 · 6th September 2005, 05:40 AM

wow! Really, I think I will take a second look. Will have to think of other stuffs to buy from parts express.

Thanks for the help. Minh

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29th August 2005, 03:29 PM	#2
Audiophilenoob diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: NC	http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-367 something like this on the underside is what I use about 4 per top should provide quite a bit of shear strength and should be easy to remove vertically I've used them in the past and they are very hard to break (even though they're plastic) if sheared... and they're cheap if you do break one

6th September 2005, 03:24 AM	#4
minh_827 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: san jose california	THANKS Audiophilenoob for the help, but I think there too weak to support the top cabinet. It's really heavy. I used constraint layer damping. Front baffle is 3 layer of 3/4 mdf, 1/8 vinly damping from acoustical solution, 1'' mdf

6th September 2005, 03:26 AM	#5
minh_827 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: san jose california	K-amps, thats the kas's not krs's

6th September 2005, 05:40 AM	#7
minh_827 diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: san jose california	wow! Really, I think I will take a second look. Will have to think of other stuffs to buy from parts express. Thanks for the help. Minh

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