I haven't seen anyone veneer a baffle with more than two roundovers. With four, you'll need to use a solid piece of wood that you could bond with MDF. You veneer the sides then glue on the wood and then round over the edges. Of course, your roundover radius cannot exceed the thickness of the wood.
Do you have a router?
Do you have a router?
A lot of opinion on that topic. Frankly I'd make it easy on yourself a choose what looks nicest followed by what you have the tools to build.
I think the triple layers of MDF are going to be your undoing. I'd go all single layer with a double layer front baffle. Furthermore if you first veneer the sides and then glue some nice lumber on top of the first baffle layer, you can put a small round over on that, limited only by the thickness of the lumber.
I think the triple layers of MDF are going to be your undoing. I'd go all single layer with a double layer front baffle. Furthermore if you first veneer the sides and then glue some nice lumber on top of the first baffle layer, you can put a small round over on that, limited only by the thickness of the lumber.
maybe i can do a 3 layer baffle and 1 or 2 the rest of the way around. I could make the front to layers of the baffle smaller and rounded on all 4 edges and give it that black matte finish. what is that finish I see it on lots of cabinets and have no idea of how they do that. like the speaker on the cover of Great Sound Stereo Speaker Manual by Weems, David B. seen here im sure that it goes into detail in the manual but mine is taking forever to get to me.
also seen here
Gavin
also seen here
Gavin
Hi Gavin,
Claudio Negro's HP and the Manual that I wrote (taken directly from Claudio) include a way of setting up SW without the Wallin Jig. He uses cables that he puts together. It may save some time though the Jig is really not that hard and it is a good start to learning how to solder and put circuits together.
In terms of placement of drivers on the baffle, you can use the Baffle Diffraction Simulator from FRD Consortium or The Edge. A google will find either one. The Edge is a little easier to use but there are many more features and there is more flexibility with the BDS. Both are excellent tools.
HTH,
Jay
Claudio Negro's HP and the Manual that I wrote (taken directly from Claudio) include a way of setting up SW without the Wallin Jig. He uses cables that he puts together. It may save some time though the Jig is really not that hard and it is a good start to learning how to solder and put circuits together.
In terms of placement of drivers on the baffle, you can use the Baffle Diffraction Simulator from FRD Consortium or The Edge. A google will find either one. The Edge is a little easier to use but there are many more features and there is more flexibility with the BDS. Both are excellent tools.
HTH,
Jay
ok, so I have been messing with BFD for driver positioning. I just put in all the info on my current design. what am I really looking for here ? to get all the driver plots on the same line? to have all the time delays the same graph? if so what are some tricks to do this?. you can see above my current design.
thanks for the info,
Gavin
thanks for the info,
Gavin
My understanding is that you are looking for the smoothest response. You might try starting with the drivers centered and then start nudging them to one side until the response looks smoothest.
I'm going a different route. I centered because I like the way it looks and then I'm going to attempt to deal with diffraction using felt on the baffle surface.
I'm going a different route. I centered because I like the way it looks and then I'm going to attempt to deal with diffraction using felt on the baffle surface.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.