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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Indiana
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http://www.vikash.info/audio/W3-871S/build.asp
built with a table saw..check but what i'm wondering is how u flush trim the cabinets? sometimes my panels overhang by a few mm and it is quite annoying to sand. i got my router (fixed and plunge) and i'm just trying to figure out how exactly to do this. also, how did he roundover the edges? thanks..or someone could gimme a site that shows all the different things u can do w/ a router. any help is appreciated. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Ontario
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You need a "flush trim" router bit - see here for an example:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...168,46171&ap=1 Check out the woodworking.com forum for numerous questions and answers on routers and all things wood. Paul |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Illinois
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Quote:
Similarly a roundover bit will give you the rounded edges. I'm guessing that you use your router free-hand... for control and accuracy I highly recommend making a router table/bench. There are lots of free plans out there (google "DIY Router Table"). A basic one is very cheap to make ~10-20 bucks in materials and novice completion time in 1-2hours. Brad |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Once again, this is purely opinion, but I hate routers for flush trimming wood on wood. I use a belt sander for this task on hardwood. I use my belt sander so much I am going to buy a bigger one
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Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. Enzo Ferrari |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Indiana
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ok we must keep in mind however that I am only a junior in HS (started yesterday) and I have already spent all my summer job money on various audio projects ( MTWW m4n vifa d6g x2..most notably) and that i have a skil router w/ plunge attachment, hitachi circular saw, saw horses, black and decker orbital sander a few dremels and a hardcore old school craftsman corded drill. i bought some router bits off ebay which include a rabbeting and roundover bit (carbide bits). what I need to know is if it is possible to get edges like that w/o a router table? i'm not the greatest woodworker (as people at caraudio.com could tell u
) but i love learning new stuff and i'm up for anything...but i have limited funding. so pretty much what i need to know is whether or not it is even possible to do those edges w/o a router table. if not, then i'll try and cook one up. thanks!
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: NYS
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Sure, you can use the roundover bit in your router and "hand hold" the router and do a decent job of of it. Just be sure to clamp the workpiece securely.
Do some test pieces to get a feel for it, and make the cut in repeated passes setting the bit lower each pass. Keep the base of the router seated flat on the workpiece, go slow and it helps to avoid split-outs by routing the end grain cuts first. The flush trim bit works to make edges flush with the adjacent panels, but if you don't have one (or a belt sander) a sharp hand plane works just as well.
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onasis |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Indiana
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anything else i should know about my router or cabinet making in general?
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Redneck Riviera
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never use Gorilla glue
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
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Hey Lemans23 -
Were you aware that John has replaced the Tangband driver with a HiVi in this design? http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker18.html
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Soft Dome |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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Quote:
I have the cheapest plunge router that money can buy, and I only really ever use three bits: 1) The flush trim bit - straight shank with wheel at the bottom which I use to get perfect edges. Forget belt sanding etc. this is the best way I have come across for fast and perfect aligning edges. Just clamp the enclosure down and freehand away. You MUST move the router in the correct direction for perfect finish and don't apply too much pressure. Let the router do the cutting, and use a slower spin speed so as not to burn the wood you're cutting. It took me less than a minute to get perfectly flush edges on each eclosure ![]() 2) Roundover bit - to round over the edges AFTER all edges are flush trimmed. Make sure you set the plunge depth correctly as there's no guide to stop you from going too deep ![]() 3) Standard thin cutter - which I use with a diy hole cutting jig to cut the driver cut-outs in the baffle. If I had to give up all other power tools in my workshop, then the router and these three bits are the one's I would keep! Good luck with your project, the W3-871s design ala Zaph is really good.
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"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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