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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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I've been using the Eagle brand from Madison. I am not sure if they are good but in your opinions, what are the best out there?
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
For speaker xovers. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Washington, D.C.
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I've pretty much switched over to the Dayton noninductives. I participated in a blind A-B test with the Daytons up against Mills, and there was noooooooo difference. Plus, the leads on the Daytons are very easy to work with, and, unlike the Madisound Eagles, the value is actually printed on them. I've grown to hate the Eagles--the leads break off with even a little use, and who can remember the color coding scheme?
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kingston, NY
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I like whatever Digikey sends me.
Seriously, I can't hear the difference between resistors, unless one's bad. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Well, if the resistor is in series with an inductor, a plain vanilla wirewound does just fine. The kind with a finned aluminum body are really nice for higher power work and can be bolted to a metal surface to help dissipation. I've used Ohmite and Dale with great satisfaction.
When low inductance is important (e.g., tweeter padding), the foil power resistors (TO220ish package) from Digikey work really well. I think they're made by Ohmite. I also used some from Caddock and they were just fine, too.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Mills, they seem to work fine
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left lane is for passing, slower traffic keep right please. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Colorado
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I drink Bud Lite. Works fine for me -- gets me just as drunk as the expensive stuff.
I don't get it. Why so many posts that say nothing? If you can't tell the difference between resistors (or beers), then why bother to proclaim your insensitivity on a public forum? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Washington, D.C.
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Hmmm. I'm new to the group and can't tell whether you're being serious or not. But either way, I certainly don't mind reporting, and acting on, the results of a carefully conducted blind test. I'm more than happy to admit I can't hear a difference if I can't hear a difference. And all the money I save ($3 a pop) adds up to cash for components that do count.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Which "you" are you referring to? If it's me, I can tell you I haven't done any serious blind testing on crossover resistors, but used basic engineering principles to choose them. I verified my choices with measurement and uncontrolled listening tests; I stopped doing controlled blind tests on audio equipment years ago. This is a hobby for me, and proper controlled tests are difficult and tedious to set up.
If you mean Charlie, remember, he builds and sells high-end equipment for a living; in that world, blind testing and verification are not good for business. I don't have any personal experience with his stuff, but Charlie seems to be a very smart guy and his equipment has an excellent reputation, so don't read these comments as any kind of slam against him or his company. Quite the opposite.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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