veneer, enamel or lacquer

lemans23 · 13th August 2005, 05:08 AM

hivi dg6 TWW config w/ vifa tweet...what do u think would be the best?

lemans23 · 14th August 2005, 04:46 PM

i decided on rustoleum black lacquer. any tips on a painfree application?

pinkmouse · 14th August 2005, 05:34 PM

Spend a couple of weeks, sanding, filling, sanding, priming, sanding, etc. until you get a perfectly good smooth primer coat, with no signs of the wood underneath. Then add the top coat(s), lightly sanding between applications.

mwmkravchenko · 15th August 2005, 02:56 AM

Use something that dries faster than rustoleum. Find a car laquer that is the colour that you want and use it. Speaking about spray cans. If you have a spray gun get a pigmented laquer the colour you want.

Why?

An oil based paint like the rustolwum will take along time to dry. It will get a lot more dust trapped in the surface, along with bugs and all sorts of wierd things. It will be a pain compared toa fast drying laquer.

Mark

lemans23 · 15th August 2005, 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mwmkravchenko
Use something that dries faster than rustoleum. Find a car laquer that is the colour that you want and use it. Speaking about spray cans. If you have a spray gun get a pigmented laquer the colour you want.

Why?

An oil based paint like the rustolwum will take along time to dry. It will get a lot more dust trapped in the surface, along with bugs and all sorts of wierd things. It will be a pain compared toa fast drying laquer.

Mark

what do you suggest then?

mwmkravchenko · 15th August 2005, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Find a car laquer that is the colour that you want

If the rustoleum is truly a fast drying laquer than you are fine. If it is an slow drying oil based paint then you will have the trouble that I mentioned. So the advice in a nutshell is something that dries fast. ( flashes off in about 5 minutes )

Mark

lemans23 · 15th August 2005, 03:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mwmkravchenko

If the rustoleum is truly a fast drying laquer than you are fine. If it is an slow drying oil based paint then you will have the trouble that I mentioned. So the advice in a nutshell is something that dries fast. ( flashes off in about 5 minutes )

Mark

no i mean what lacquer do u suggest

mwmkravchenko · 15th August 2005, 03:34 AM

I live in Canada my friend. I have acces to all the brands that you do. But I don't know what is available to you locally. The key to remember is the laquer base. Any car paint that you find in a can will be a laquer base if they say that it dries to the touch in about 20 minutes.

Brands are not that big a deal untill you get good enough to tell the differences. A frankly I have sprayed so many things with so many different paints that it amounts to build/coat and flash time. Any good quality car paint will do a good job. Surface prep is the most important thing.

I hope this helps!

Mark

warren o · 15th August 2005, 03:55 AM

You just need to seal the wood. A thin quick coat of polyurethane will do that.
Then check your library for Bob Flexner’s "Understanding Wood Finishing" book on finishing wood. He has written the seminal text on it & it is easier than you think. Much less sanding that you would imagine.

lemans23 · 15th August 2005, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by warren o
You just need to seal the wood. A thin quick coat of polyurethane will do that.
Then check your library for Bob Flexner’s "Understanding Wood Finishing" book on finishing wood. He has written the seminal text on it & it is easier than you think. Much less sanding that you would imagine.

i did 4 coats of polyurethane sandable primer/sealer, starting with 150 grit ending with 320 grit. i hope its alright cause it feels like i could iceskate on it it's so smooth

13th August 2005, 05:08 AM	#1
lemans23 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Indiana	veneer, enamel or lacquer hivi dg6 TWW config w/ vifa tweet...what do u think would be the best?

14th August 2005, 05:34 PM	#3
pinkmouse diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Chatham, England	Spend a couple of weeks, sanding, filling, sanding, priming, sanding, etc. until you get a perfectly good smooth primer coat, with no signs of the wood underneath. Then add the top coat(s), lightly sanding between applications. __________________ Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort

15th August 2005, 02:56 AM	#4
mwmkravchenko diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Perth Canada	After Pinkmouse's advice: Use something that dries faster than rustoleum. Find a car laquer that is the colour that you want and use it. Speaking about spray cans. If you have a spray gun get a pigmented laquer the colour you want. Why? An oil based paint like the rustolwum will take along time to dry. It will get a lot more dust trapped in the surface, along with bugs and all sorts of wierd things. It will be a pain compared toa fast drying laquer. Mark __________________ Mark

15th August 2005, 03:34 AM	#8
mwmkravchenko diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Perth Canada	Pretty much the same thing I live in Canada my friend. I have acces to all the brands that you do. But I don't know what is available to you locally. The key to remember is the laquer base. Any car paint that you find in a can will be a laquer base if they say that it dries to the touch in about 20 minutes. Brands are not that big a deal untill you get good enough to tell the differences. A frankly I have sprayed so many things with so many different paints that it amounts to build/coat and flash time. Any good quality car paint will do a good job. Surface prep is the most important thing. I hope this helps! Mark __________________ Mark

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14th August 2005, 04:46 PM	#2
lemans23 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Indiana	i decided on rustoleum black lacquer. any tips on a painfree application?

15th August 2005, 03:55 AM	#9
warren o diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Northeast PA	You just need to seal the wood. A thin quick coat of polyurethane will do that. Then check your library for Bob Flexner’s "Understanding Wood Finishing" book on finishing wood. He has written the seminal text on it & it is easier than you think. Much less sanding that you would imagine.

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