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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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I fancy having a play at fitting a faraday ring to a speaker (sub) I'm re-coning. My plan is to do a full height (full length of the pole piece) Faraday ring. Would it be ok to machine the pole piece down by 1mm, and electro-plate the pole piece with copper up to 1mm thick and re-assemble the sub (I see no problem in this)? the copper ring does not need to be electrically insulated from the steel pole piece does it?
I know I'll lose BL due to the bigger magnet gap but this is not really an issue for my purpose (or rather I hope the improvements will outweigh this) what advantages / problems am I likely to encounter? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Anyone know if the faraday ring has to be electrically insulated from the steel pole piece?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SiliconValley
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Hi Puggie,
The Faraday ring should be electrically connected to the steel pole piece to provide the best total current conduction path. On the topic of copper plating. Lambda Acoustics built some speakers with just a copper plating on the pole piece, their LE series. The plating did help to modestly extend the frequency range and flatten the impedance curve, but the thick copper sleeves used for Faraday rings in their TD series were substantially superior. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Thanks for the reply, what are you calling thick, I was planning on plating the pole piece with between a 0.5 and 1mm thickness of copper. I know Lambda seem to be producing a lot of drivers with a lot of copper in the motor but I've had problems trying to find much good technical info on them.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Zurich
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Quote:
John |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Quote:
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Thanks guys, this was looking nice and easy untill those last two posts
looks like I'll have to download that FEMM magnetic modeling package and have a play. So ideally I need to put as much copper in the motor as possible, while retaining the BL. I have a sub where the motor has come apart, the top plate and pole piece/back plate glue joins have failed so I have 3 pieces, top plate, pole piece and back plate and 3 magnets still bonded to each other. The voice coil is 2" dia The pole piece is 50.5mm outer dia with a 19.5mm dia vent through it and protrudes 19mm above the top of the top plate. so not much room for putting much of a copper ring around there, my plan was to turn the pole piece down by about 1mm and electro-plate this with copper to form the faraday ring, I was planning on doing this over the whole length of the pole piece. The top plate is 16mm thick and the hole in the centre 56.25mm. The magnet is made from 3 ceramic 'slugs' 21.5mm thick, 165mm outer dia and 61.5mm inner dia. I was planning on fitting a copper ring in the void between the top and back plates that would fit flush against the inside of the magnets with an inner diameter as close as I could get to the hole in the top plate so its going to be about 4.5mm thick. I have a couple of motors of dead subs which are to fit 3" VCs and magnets are 8.5" outer dia (BIG) I could look at turning new top plates and pole pieces to use these, this would give me the ability to fit a lot more copper round the outside of the VC and I would expect have a higher BL to offset the increase VC gap. The sub is a very high excursion design (XMAX of 2" peak to peak but the physical limits are a good bit more) so I could lose the pole vent and replace the dust cap with a phase plug to increase BL maybe. Any ideas advice etc is most welcome, this is really an experimantal excercise for me to see the effects of faraday rings and see if I can improve on this sub I have. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Zurich
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If you really want to get experimental, instead of a shorting ring, try wrapping some magnet wire tightly around the pole piece and run the wire in series with the voice coil, but so that the current runs in the opposite direction to the voice coil--if voice coil runs clockwise from + to -, run the pole piece coil counter-clockwise from + to -. You'll have to experiment with the number of turns, but you should be able to get the inductance down to zero. There is an article in one of the AES Loudspeaker Anthologies on this.
John |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Hey John,
Yeah, I have seen that somewhere... Do you happen to remember the author or title of the paper? I just searched and could not find it (I don't have the anthologies but can get any of the papers in them). If I can figure it out I'll build a speaker with and without next week, take some measurements, and give them a listen. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
And the difference between this and a DVC woofer with the coils wired reverse polarity is?????
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The golden rule of DIY: Build nice, or build twice! |
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