Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 9th August 2005, 12:26 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Victoria Australia
Question Speaker Boxes Made out of Metal

Hello Everyone,
Me Again will another idea?
Has anyone one the forum experimented with welding up a speaker box out of say 6mm think steel and welding in cross braces to prevent wall flex.
I am sure you could get a very stiff box with this idea?
One thing i hate about my normal boxes is the boxy sound you get at times.
I know it would be heavy, but if it worked it would most likely be worth it.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2005, 12:38 AM   #2
Stocker is offline Stocker  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Austin
It could sound tinny.

To get the obvious joke out of the way.

If you have the materials on hand, go for it. Otherwise, use adequately spec'd MDF, HDF or plywood. Stay away from chipboard and LDF. Other exotic materials use as required

Anything done right will not resonate in a frequency of concern for the drivers installed.

Metal has one big advantage: you finish it, it's done moving. No swelling with weather (even soaking in water), no shifting joints.
__________________
Jesus loves you.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2005, 12:44 AM   #3
Variac is offline Variac  United States
diyAudio Editor
 
Variac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
Somewhere in here I remember a guy who tried steel about that thickness. He said it rang. I would think something like pickup bed liner sprayed on the inside would help. Or glue something like vinyl floor tile onto the inside. There is special stuff sold for this purpose too.
The HIGHLY regarded Wilson Benesh speakers use a metal framework of some sort.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2005, 12:52 AM   #4
SY is offline SY  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
SY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Blog Entries: 1
Don't forget the aluminum cabinet on the old Celestions...
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2005, 01:20 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Houston
Krell's LAT-1 is made from Extruded Aluminum

Krell LAT-1
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2005, 01:26 AM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NC
alum seems like the preferable material over steel...

it's roughly the same strength but is far lighter
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2005, 01:40 AM   #7
Variac is offline Variac  United States
diyAudio Editor
 
Variac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
You gotta define strength- the same problem as defining conductivity.
"tensile strength per pound?" Steel wins I'll bet. Its hella strong.

I think Alu's lower weight allows thicker walls which make it "stiffer per pound"

I think alu is inherently better damped (for a metal!) Not too many church bells made from aluminium...

It does seem that Aluminum is more successful. Now steel/sompthin' constrained composite might be pretty good! (I think thatthe Benesh folks combine a steel framework with carbon sandwich panels..tasty!
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2005, 01:42 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NC
Quote:
Originally posted by Variac
You gotta define strength- the same problem as defining conductivity.
"tensile strength per pound?" Steel wins I'll bet. Its hella strong.

I think Alu's lower weight allows thicker walls which make it "stiffer per pound"

I think alu is inherently better damped (for a metal!) Not too many church bells made from aluminium...

It does seem that Aluminum is more successful. Now steel/sompthin' constrained composite might be pretty good! (I think thatthe Benesh folks combine a steel framework with carbon sandwich panels..tasty!

alum is softer than steel no doubt and therefore has higher dampening properties... but 6mm steel is VERY strong... it would take a lot of pressure to flex that...

1/4" alum would be nearly impossible to bend... but resonance is still a problem

as far as that though you're right steel per thickness is stronger than alum
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2005, 06:44 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Artmaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kiev
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via ICQ to Artmaster Send a message via MSN to Artmaster
gday!
let's compire material's properties:

Material E, 109*Pa
aluminium 70,0-71,0
beton 14,6-23,2
tungsten 415
granit 49
iron 190,0-210,0
kapron 1,4-2,0
brick 2,7-3,0
ice(about t=-4oC) 10
marble 56,0-73,0
plexiglass 2,9-4,1
spider's web 3
rubber 0,9
lead 16,0-17,0
steel 200,0-220,0
glass 50,0-60,0
cotton 12
grey iron 115,0-160,0
silk 13
wool 6
ebonite 3

do not tell fortunes for it.
__________________
Artmaster live in www.artmaydan.org.ua
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th August 2005, 07:51 AM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Scottmoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
Unfortunately, because something is stiff, it doesn't necessarily follow that it will be uncoloured, or not resonate. Quite the reverse. Think of tuning forks.

The best anaolgies I can think of, and they have relevance here, are in swords, and battleship armour-plate. Tap a bronze sword, and you'll get a relatively dull 'thud'. A steel one will vibrate and ring quite cheerfully. That's why they tended to combine several metals for these things -to prevent them shattering. Same with armour-plate. Steel, when it was introduced, was harder than the older iron armour, but it shattered easily. So for a number of years they used compound armour -a nice hard steel face supported by a tough iron backing.

All of which sounds as if it's a bit of a downer, but it's not impossible, and superb results can come. Look at how good some metal drivers are, though it's taken quite a while to get them to a really good standard (thank you Acoustic Energy and others). So there's no reason metallic cabinets have to be poor. I still have a pair of the aforementioned Celestion SL600s in the loft (2 blown tweeters). They used a propriatory aerolam technique, mostly swiped from the aircraft industry using aluminium, which is a better bet than steel for this sort of thing. I don't think they can rebuild these cabinets any more though: I believe their supplier went out of business, though I speak under correction here. Unless of course, you can fashon a cab. out of bronze of course... A cabinet constructed from two different types of metal might also be worth trying. Good luck. There are real possibilities from metal cabinets, just like drivers, but it'll need some heavy thinking.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
what do you use in your speaker boxes? newfinish Multi-Way 3 20th September 2008 11:37 PM
6x9 Speaker Boxes Drivetime Car Audio 20 31st July 2003 08:17 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:53 PM.

Page generated in 0.11321 seconds (80.14% PHP - 19.86% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio