Thank You p10!
- It should be used for listening to music, classic, vocal, more complex - needs precision. In room 5*6*2,5 meter, at home, should play with Zens and alephs, source is CD.
- SPL - is sound pressure level?
Ok, i don´t know the dB, but its a house of my own, as loud as classic music needs for good reproduktion. Loud parts need to be very loud if silent parts should be loud enough for to be able to listen to details.
- Ht . definetly no.
- It should be used for listening to music, classic, vocal, more complex - needs precision. In room 5*6*2,5 meter, at home, should play with Zens and alephs, source is CD.
- SPL - is sound pressure level?
Ok, i don´t know the dB, but its a house of my own, as loud as classic music needs for good reproduktion. Loud parts need to be very loud if silent parts should be loud enough for to be able to listen to details.
- Ht . definetly no.
Where To Start......
Frank, you mention that you have some JVC speakers that you say are not too bad.
I suggest that you first embark on mods and improvements to these existing speakers.
This can be low budget, and give you a feel for and understanding of different sounds caused by tweaking.
This way you can likely end up with a pair of cabinets that you can enjoy and the major cost is time, and the gain is experience.
The primary thing to do is connect some decent speaker cable - if this is wrong you will never get the sound you want.
I use 12 or 20 pair indoor telephone cable - this is cheap and has never let me down.
Next things to do would be change any electrolytic crossover caps to polypropylene caps bypassed with ceramics.
Then adjust the type, amount and placement of damping material inside the cabinet.
Another significant step is to fit RC compensating networks across each voicecoil at the voicecoil connections.
These above mods may modify crossover points and require that you fine adjust crossover capacitor values to get it sitting 'right'.
Cabinet mounting is also very important - lately I have been using 3 automotive valve springs - two under the back corners and one under the middle front.
This is a zero cost experiment and I like the result.
If after these mods you may decide that you do not like the tweeter sound and change it for something more to your taste.
"The Loudspeaker Cookbook" is a very good book to study, in addition to resources on the net.
If this is your first project along these lines, this process will/may be lengthy, but you get to learn a lot.
Eric.
Frank, you mention that you have some JVC speakers that you say are not too bad.
I suggest that you first embark on mods and improvements to these existing speakers.
This can be low budget, and give you a feel for and understanding of different sounds caused by tweaking.
This way you can likely end up with a pair of cabinets that you can enjoy and the major cost is time, and the gain is experience.
The primary thing to do is connect some decent speaker cable - if this is wrong you will never get the sound you want.
I use 12 or 20 pair indoor telephone cable - this is cheap and has never let me down.
Next things to do would be change any electrolytic crossover caps to polypropylene caps bypassed with ceramics.
Then adjust the type, amount and placement of damping material inside the cabinet.
Another significant step is to fit RC compensating networks across each voicecoil at the voicecoil connections.
These above mods may modify crossover points and require that you fine adjust crossover capacitor values to get it sitting 'right'.
Cabinet mounting is also very important - lately I have been using 3 automotive valve springs - two under the back corners and one under the middle front.
This is a zero cost experiment and I like the result.
If after these mods you may decide that you do not like the tweeter sound and change it for something more to your taste.
"The Loudspeaker Cookbook" is a very good book to study, in addition to resources on the net.
If this is your first project along these lines, this process will/may be lengthy, but you get to learn a lot.
Eric.
Frank (Sorry, not Ken!),
I should add that I have played around with pro speakers a bit, including numerous parties and doofs. The self powered JBL EON's are in my opinion the bee's knees. I have (seen them) thrashed, bashed, dropped, had a krell amp output accidentally plugged straight into the line input (!), and they just keep going.
I've heard them play outside in the open air and they can sound magical... for Pro Audio speakers
I don't think you are probably talking about Pro audio though, so I'll just stop right here, but I thought I would comment, cos I don't usually know jack about any of the questions asked here
Bill: Check http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/index.php - This page is essentially hidden because of the way the forums are laid out, I'll try to make the time to bring it forward.
I should add that I have played around with pro speakers a bit, including numerous parties and doofs. The self powered JBL EON's are in my opinion the bee's knees. I have (seen them) thrashed, bashed, dropped, had a krell amp output accidentally plugged straight into the line input (!), and they just keep going.
I've heard them play outside in the open air and they can sound magical... for Pro Audio speakers
I don't think you are probably talking about Pro audio though, so I'll just stop right here, but I thought I would comment, cos I don't usually know jack about any of the questions asked here
Bill: Check http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/index.php - This page is essentially hidden because of the way the forums are laid out, I'll try to make the time to bring it forward.
Re: Where To Start......
Eric is right on here. I have tweaked many a commercial speaker and engendered often massive improvements. A couple things that he missed, that are at least as important as the ones he did mention.
Ductseal. Wonderful stuff. The woofer basket and the juncture of the basket and magnet should be coated with ductseal to kill basket resonances. You probably have a closed back midrange, the steel basket should get the same treatment. Depending on the tweeter there might be a place to use it as well.
Tighten the box up: add some bracing to it. Some long 1 1/2" -2" wide pieces of plywood or hardwood glued on edge on each panel. These should be run the long way and at an angle such as to divide the panel into 2 unequal smaller panels.
I also found that puzzlecoating paper woofers & mids most often improved things.
You can also try to brace the wooder magnet against the back of the box, and if it is a ported design, see if stuffing the port improves the bottom end.
More detail & some other possibilities may be found in an article on modifying the TLS80 on my website.
dave
mrfeedback said:
Eric is right on here. I have tweaked many a commercial speaker and engendered often massive improvements. A couple things that he missed, that are at least as important as the ones he did mention.
Ductseal. Wonderful stuff. The woofer basket and the juncture of the basket and magnet should be coated with ductseal to kill basket resonances. You probably have a closed back midrange, the steel basket should get the same treatment. Depending on the tweeter there might be a place to use it as well.
Tighten the box up: add some bracing to it. Some long 1 1/2" -2" wide pieces of plywood or hardwood glued on edge on each panel. These should be run the long way and at an angle such as to divide the panel into 2 unequal smaller panels.
I also found that puzzlecoating paper woofers & mids most often improved things.
You can also try to brace the wooder magnet against the back of the box, and if it is a ported design, see if stuffing the port improves the bottom end.
More detail & some other possibilities may be found in an article on modifying the TLS80 on my website.
dave
Another tip for reinforcing the existing box, is to buy some lengths of timber, say 1"x 1" and cut them to the dimensions of the <i>inside</i> of the box. With the drivers removed, you can insert them through the woofer hole and screw them through the sides of the box to provide additional bracing. A friend did this to a pair of older speakers he bought once, which were very boomy: if you rapped the box it sounded like a drum. So braces were added side to side, top to bottom, and front to back. It didn't look so pretty afterwards with exposed screwheads (add putty and paint) but it didn't resonate either.
Also with extra battening like I described, when you add some damping material inside, you can drape it over and around some of the supports to provide even better absorption than just putting it at the sides. Carded wool is also practical as a damping material then (it's cheap here).
A small outlay of $ and some time and <i>planning</i> could bring some major improvements.
HTH
Cheers
Brett
Also with extra battening like I described, when you add some damping material inside, you can drape it over and around some of the supports to provide even better absorption than just putting it at the sides. Carded wool is also practical as a damping material then (it's cheap here).
A small outlay of $ and some time and <i>planning</i> could bring some major improvements.
HTH
Cheers
Brett
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