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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tel aviv
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Hi
I'm in the midst of building my very first speaker system, and I'm not quite sure about the enclosure. I'm mainly uncertain about whether should the baffle be on the outside or on the inside, or in other words, should the baffle dimentions be the actual HxW or larger on each side by twice the thickness of the MDF? Is there any general acceptation as to how it's best to construct the enclosure in that aspect? Which sides are to be in, out or on top of which? And lastly, would sinking the entire baffle (about 0.7 cm), affect or distort the response? TIA, Jonathan EDIT CONCERNING BOX VOLUME: My drivers are SEAS 27TDFC (http://seas.no/seas_line/tweeters/H1189.pdf) and L18RNX/P (http://seas.no/seas_line/woofers/H1224.pdf). According to my caculations the Volume is to be 10.8 Liters, and this, taking the drivers' diameters into account, calls for a 25x43x11(cm) box. Are my calculations correct? could it be such a small box? Jonathan |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tel aviv
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Another thing I've been meaning to ask (although I'm sure it will show me for the newbie that I am): inductors, as I know them, are large gauged copper wire things. Yet what I was given when I went to buy some for my original design of crossover were tiny objects, very much like small resistors, marked with that color code. Am I missing something here? could it be due to the values of those inductors (0.5mH and 2mH)?
thanks, Jonathan |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Québec, Québec
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You probably got iron core inductors instead of air core inductors.
Iron core are much smaller, but you don't want iron core in audio, except for a subwoofer.
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DIYaudio for President ! |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Québec, Québec
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Quote:
__________________
DIYaudio for President ! |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tel aviv
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O.k thanks. I was getting worried about those inductors.
Any clue about the volume of the box? |
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#6 |
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just another
diyAudio Moderator
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Just use simple math W X D X H = volume of the box... this should be the internal dimentions. Rule of thumb is to add 10% to the volume to allow for displacement of drivers, bracing etc.
so once you have the internal dimentions just work out which way you are going to join your cabinet sides, top, bottom back and baffle, and add the necessary amount for the thickness of your MDF. Do a drawing it will help Tony. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tel aviv
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Yes, as I have said, I alredy have the dimentions of the box. My question was whether these dimentions appeaer reasonable considering the drivers' parameters.
And I gather there are is no general consensus as to the the way the box should be constructed? Jonathan. |
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#8 |
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just another
diyAudio Moderator
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Sorry Piro I misinterpreted your first post, probably should go to bed
With respect to how to do the baffle (and a completely non scientific approach), probably whatever way you find easiest to get it to seal well Tony. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tel aviv
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Okay.
How about the drivers' locations? (their distance from each other and from the edges of the baffle). Also, I've determined the width of the baffle as 5cm more than the width (diameter) of the woofer. Again, is this o.k or is there special importance to the baffle's dimensions? thanks again, Jonathan |
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#10 | ||
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just another
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Quote:
Tony. edit: the edge wasn't linked, here it is http://www.tolvan.com/edge/ edit2: oh and one other thing, you shouldn't have any of your dimentions (W D H) the same, or it will tend to cause problems with standing waves. |
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