Planet-10, Carlos, Cal ....... i woke up at 6 this morning DETERMINED to make something change sound wise. I loaded up The Police and got to work. I diconnected the ART audio amp (its a rental) and tore down all the wires and x-overs.
Hooked up 12 guage speaker wire and the only interconnects i possess. Wired the Morel all by its lonesome and then ran bridge wire up to the tweeter terminals and put the L-pad resistors in place. And then? i lined up every single capacitor i own. (non Electolytics)I played music.
It was exhausting work. I started at 2 uF and worked my way up, moving at two or three songs per combination. I didnt want to jump around since i have no way of measuring FR of the woofers full range. Its 1 PM now and i can honestly say i think i am as close to 0 x-overs as i am going to be for the forseeable future, i have to finish the subs before i spend anymore money.
Its a toss up between 5.15 uF dearborn labs cap or the 6.77 uF Bennics. Actually i tried to have 5 uF left and the 6.67 uF right side. It was close but the snare drum pulled to the right then. (woofer tweeter overlap ?).
You were, all of you, right this whole time. I didnt need the 50 component 24 DB x-over. I just needed to get patient and play calmly and unhurried. I am now 1 capacitor and 2 resistors with a naked woofer.
My head scrapes the floor before you. Not as low as it does for Nelson Pass but its down there at boot height.
Now i can say "I HEAR THAT !"
Oh and on a side note. That Pioneer kicks the ART audios butt any day. 2 x 200, pffft! so what if it sounds like trash. I hooked it up once just to hear it before it goes back with no x-over in the way, just the cap and it was broken glass on the top end . Sure it sounded good when it had the juice to push through all that mess of a x-over before but, once unfettered, it didnt have the legs to run free. The Pioneer sounds great now with nothing eating up its output. I did the cable thing as well just on the right side. 18 gauge to 12 gauge = pwned!
Hooked up 12 guage speaker wire and the only interconnects i possess. Wired the Morel all by its lonesome and then ran bridge wire up to the tweeter terminals and put the L-pad resistors in place. And then? i lined up every single capacitor i own. (non Electolytics)I played music.
It was exhausting work. I started at 2 uF and worked my way up, moving at two or three songs per combination. I didnt want to jump around since i have no way of measuring FR of the woofers full range. Its 1 PM now and i can honestly say i think i am as close to 0 x-overs as i am going to be for the forseeable future, i have to finish the subs before i spend anymore money.
Its a toss up between 5.15 uF dearborn labs cap or the 6.77 uF Bennics. Actually i tried to have 5 uF left and the 6.67 uF right side. It was close but the snare drum pulled to the right then. (woofer tweeter overlap ?).
You were, all of you, right this whole time. I didnt need the 50 component 24 DB x-over. I just needed to get patient and play calmly and unhurried. I am now 1 capacitor and 2 resistors with a naked woofer.
My head scrapes the floor before you. Not as low as it does for Nelson Pass but its down there at boot height.
Now i can say "I HEAR THAT !"
Oh and on a side note. That Pioneer kicks the ART audios butt any day. 2 x 200, pffft! so what if it sounds like trash. I hooked it up once just to hear it before it goes back with no x-over in the way, just the cap and it was broken glass on the top end . Sure it sounded good when it had the juice to push through all that mess of a x-over before but, once unfettered, it didnt have the legs to run free. The Pioneer sounds great now with nothing eating up its output. I did the cable thing as well just on the right side. 18 gauge to 12 gauge = pwned!
Madmike2 said:I just introduced a DBX 2215 to the equation. I disconnected it in less then 3 minutes. Now i know why all hi-end systems are either pure digital to the DAC or dont have ANY eq in them. I went from dead silent to high pitched whine in 4 seconds flat. Horrible.
You think the DBX is bad? Try the DCX2496, ugh!
Madmike2 said:It was exhausting work. I started at 2 uF and worked my way up, moving at two or three songs per combination. I didnt want to jump around since i have no way of measuring FR of the woofers full range. Its 1 PM now and i can honestly say i think i am as close to 0 x-overs as i am going to be for the forseeable future, i have to finish the subs before i spend anymore money.
Its a toss up between 5.15 uF dearborn labs cap or the 6.77 uF Bennics. Actually i tried to have 5 uF left and the 6.67 uF right side. It was close but the snare drum pulled to the right then. (woofer tweeter overlap ?).
You were, all of you, right this whole time. I didnt need the 50 component 24 DB x-over. I just needed to get patient and play calmly and unhurried. I am now 1 capacitor and 2 resistors with a naked woofer.
Ooohhh, at last.
Mmmm... actually what you need on the tweeter (8 ohms?) is something between 1.5 and 2uf.
Listen carefully, take your time.
Also, midband peaks at around 1~3k are very easy to detect (and very hard on the ear), and you said your Morel woofer had a big peak at around 3k?
Tell me the model, I'll look at it.
Hey you're on the right path, but you may not have the right woofer for the job.
ShinOBIWAN said:
You think the DBX is bad? Try the DCX2496, ugh!
The DBX driverack Pro is very very nice to my ears
no hum... lots of features... no added noise at any frequencies that I can hear.... very clean and transparent
ShinOBIWAN said:Its digital yes.
That doesn't stop the analogue stages introducing hiss though, flogged mine on since it was annoying to the least on highish sensitivity speakers.
I was just relating to what you said in your earlier post.
Ya i knew you were on my comment i just thought it would be cleaner being digital. I guess it has to have digital out to an Exterior DAC then if its analogue stages are that bad.
Re: Re: Full props and shout outs to ....
Its a 6 ohm ribbon and why would i walk that far up ? I started around there and it was thin and tinny. as i got farther up the frequency range things started to fill out. The woofer is fine there is no ringing now that the foolish electrical mess is gone. I disconnect the tweeter and it sounds fine just no top end at all. there are numerous designs using this morel. I am sure i am not the first to go commando with it .
The Model is the MW-166
carlosfm said:
Ooohhh, at last.
Mmmm... actually what you need on the tweeter (8 ohms?) is something between 1.5 and 2uf.
Listen carefully, take your time.
Also, midband peaks at around 1~3k are very easy to detect (and very hard on the ear), and you said your Morel woofer had a big peak at around 3k?
Tell me the model, I'll look at it.
Hey you're on the right path, but you may not have the right woofer for the job.
Its a 6 ohm ribbon and why would i walk that far up ? I started around there and it was thin and tinny. as i got farther up the frequency range things started to fill out. The woofer is fine there is no ringing now that the foolish electrical mess is gone. I disconnect the tweeter and it sounds fine just no top end at all. there are numerous designs using this morel. I am sure i am not the first to go commando with it .
The Model is the MW-166
Madmike2 said:Its a 6 ohm ribbon and why would i walk that far up ?
Ah ok, you can use it lower (1st order) than "normal" tweeters.
Madmike2 said:The Model is the MW-166
Do you have a pdf file for that driver?
I would like to see a frequency response graph, but I don't understand and have no patience for that &/&#$$#%%$#%$ Morel official web site.
This is the only site i know of curtesy of Wintermute . Its the only graph i have ever seen, period.
I wish i had more info on it but the company is
http://www.eltimaudio.com/products/drivers.htm
Product info link below every picture.
I wish i had more info on it but the company is
http://www.eltimaudio.com/products/drivers.htm
Product info link below every picture.
Madmike2 said:Product info link below every picture.
Ok, got it.
Try a 3.3uf cap on the tweeter.
And go down in value, not up.
Carlos, i started at 2 and went up to seven nearly. I found that the sound is best at 5 there abouts. I will leave it there for now. Thanks for the suggestion though. I stopped when the mid got bloated (too much overlap) and went back to where it was no longer tinny (too much dip)
Madmike2 said:Carlos, i started at 2 and went up to seven nearly. I found that the sound is best at 5 there abouts. I will leave it there for now.
Strange... with your woofer you should have too much overlap by now, a forward midband.
Whatever...
Madmike2 said:Curse you Carlos now i am going through it again
You thought you can tune a crossover in 5 minutes?
Even adding more 100nf on the tweeter makes difference.
Calculations are just a starting point.
Hey, it's a labour of love.
When you get the right amount of attenuation and the right crossover point you can relax an enjoy the music.
Untill then, go
PS: it's easy to change components if you have the crossover external.
Aligators are handy.
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