|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#191 |
|
diyAudio Editor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
|
It seems to me you are getting too upset. That is the only way you could make a fool out of yourself here. You certainly wouldn't want to be the sort of person that threatens to take his toys and go home.. something you once accused me of. Perhaps you had this reaction because the Supravox comments were mixed in with Frank's phase comments. In fact, that was what I was trying to ameliorate a bit- I felt your comments to Frank about the Supra recomendation were excessive, about phase more justified. I think your comment was valid, but feel that the truth is that we really don't have enough info on all the Supra products, etc. and should stay open minded to more info, rather than demanding that all agree with you and your friend that they are crap. My Supravox interest was not for field coils at all and I will return to the thread where the lower level models were being discussed. It is these lower level models that I was considering and shouldn't have entered the fray regarding the field coils. In fact I have decided to not discuss speakers at all anymore until I have finished mine. Interestingly they will have Fostex drivers instead of Supravox because I want to buy them soon and I don't have enough info on Supravox-reliability to risk buying them after your warning! Plus the Fostex look really cool!
|
|
|
|
|
#192 | |
|
diyAudio Moderator
|
Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
|
|
|
|
|
#193 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Vancouver Canada
|
Greets,
I have read with great interest the thread on the Fertins and would be interested in the group purchase. The only experience I have with FR was a pair of Lowthers in Medallion II cabs but sold those and now use some Unity speakers/TAD2001 and Altec 828/515. The FR concept just seems more elegant. Keep me posted! Thanks! Bob.Obo |
|
|
|
|
#194 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
|
I guess nothing is going to happen with FC drivers in this context.
Just as well. Unusually, I have the money but no time to start a speaker development project just now and I know I can get Fertins from Black Forest. Still, if anyone comes up with a smokin' deal on FC drivers, contact me privately at phclark@qwest.net. I'm taking this thread off my personal bar. It's been a slice. Peter C |
|
|
|
|
#195 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Los Gatos, CA
|
Just curious, do y'all think this driver would be good for an open baffle? If not, what type of cabinet do you think? If (big if) I did this, I would be mating it with the LeRibbon tweeter....
MANUFACTURER: ATD MODEL 17LB DATE 10/3/2001 Fs 99.7823 Cone Diameter 130.0000 ZMax 36.4923 Re 6.0000 Qms 4.1739 Qes 0.8213 Qts 0.6863 Mms 6.10g Vas 19.5 dBSPL 92 Power: 100W L 1kHz 0.7270 L 10kHz 0.1338 Z Min 6.6145 Z AVG 10.2670 http://e-speakers.com/products/atd-wide-range.html http://e-speakers.com/products/atd-tweeters.html At 1/3 the cost of a Fertin setup, you think it would sound decent? I'm interested in experimenting/experiencing the open baffle sound but at a lower cost.
__________________
-Brad- |
|
|
|
|
#196 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
|
Fs of 100 is a little high, you need a bass unit to complement this driver.
Depending on the size of the baffle, I believe there would be a problem with how much air the driver can move = not enough linear travel of the voice coil. Also there is a 5dB peak at 4kHz that looks ugly and needs a notch filter. So... view this driver as a midrange in a 3-way! /Peter |
|
|
|
|
#197 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
There is the posibility to cover the backside of the driver with cloth, wool or glassfiber. this will increase the power handling in the bassregion, give a little more bass output, & it also makes it less important to treat the wall behind the speakers with absorbing material. This calls for a bit of trial & error, but if it results in a better sounding speaker... I'm going to try it on my (really ugly)open baffles anyway...
/Per |
|
|
|
|
#198 | |
|
diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
|
Hi,
Quote:
Try it if you like though,
__________________
Frank |
|
|
|
|
|
#199 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Italy
|
You can try with a Tipole arrangement like my bass section on Tipolo project
ciao Filippo www.audiofanatic.it |
|
|
|
|
#200 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
Dave at one point suggested an angled cut to hole on the fieldcoil side of the driver. I did that and it opened up the soundstage in every direction. Thanks, Dave.
Now reasonably confident that the drivers have run in I would characterize the strong points of the driver/open baffle as: singing, lilting presentation and oustanding presence/transparency. Bass did eventually fill in and is reasonable enough with careful placement. During the course of the thread we noted that low powered pp suited these speakers more than SET but no explanation was offered why this is so. Recently, on another board, KYW offered this little nugget: "> I suppose the conclusion is there will be advantage in > using field coil drivers in an OB where one can change > the driver Q to suit. Up to a point - yes. You really need to start with a Driver having a Qe of 0.5 or more (up to Qe 1.5 or so will be okay) and a sufficiently large baffle. The lower the Driver Qe for a given Fs the larger the baffle has to be (plane baffle, folding back "wings are an idea that is not ideal acoustically IMHO) for the same LF cutoff. Go below 0.5 Driver Qe and you will NEVER have a large enough baffle to get a reasonably flat response at LF. You can BTW raise the Drivers effective Qe by driving it from a high source Impedance Amplifier. For example, Brian Cherry uses a PP Amp with 45's that I would estimate to have around 6.5 - 8 Ohm output Impedance without negative feedback used. He comments how this amplifier produces much better bass with his open baffle Fertin's than the Billie Kit, which of course has "only" around 2.5 Ohm output Impedance. If we do the numbers, using the high output impedance Amplifier will almost double the Qe, so our Qe = 0.45 Fertin de facto turns into Qe = 0.9. On comparison the 300B SE Amplifier will raise the Qe only to around 0.6. The above should also explain why Brian finds the high output impedance Amplifier a little uncontrolled on Box Speakers where the 300B SE Amp rules." I include this just to complete the discussion for reference. Thanks to all for their input. Brian
__________________
Disclaimer: I may or may not offer for sale items mentioned in this thread, and if I do, I may or may not make a profit. |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| First open baffle project | Moondog55 | Multi-Way | 18 | 10th August 2008 05:35 AM |
| Big open baffle project | hugobors | Multi-Way | 18 | 18th September 2006 04:17 PM |
| another Open Baffle project | Tomac | Multi-Way | 1 | 14th September 2006 10:11 AM |
| Open baffle drivers configuration: time to ask the experts | Peter Daniel | Multi-Way | 28 | 31st October 2002 06:54 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.15049 seconds (84.34% PHP - 15.66% MySQL) with 11 queries |