chamber for seas mp14rcy

zach · 17th August 2001, 09:18 PM

I need to chamber this driver in my 3-way, and I can't decide how to go about doing it. I am thinking about makeing a square box of about 3-3.5 L and do the asphalt tile on the sides method and stuff liberally with polyfill i have heard this is a good smple, general way.. I have also heard about cutting a sonotube and leaving the back end open, but sliced diagonally to catch standing waves in the end of the "chamber". I was wondering if you guys had any good ideas, especially if you've used this specific driver. Thanks.

Super · 17th August 2001, 10:55 PM

There are a few possibilities that I'm aware of. Some of the designs I've seen is a triangular enclosure, shaped like a wedge. This is going to eliminate the standing waves caused by the 90 degree angles of a conventional cube. The enclosure could be covered in thick speaker felt to absorb some waves as well. A variation of that sonotube method may work even better. A recent Parts Express project included adding a rear chamber to the Dayton 1 1/8 inch tweeter, made out of PVC. It may be hard to attach 5 inch PVC to this driver, but the thinner, sonotube or Quickrete tube may work better. The tube, cut to the appropriate volume, stuffed, and then capped at the end may work well. Also, a cap that you can slide back and forth along the end of the tube can allow for easy tweaking or adjustment. Once you've found the proper length and placement of the end cap, you can mark the side of the tube, and then glue or seal the cap to the end. However, it may be difficult finding area on the driver basket to attach the tube solidly. A cube might be the easiest to make, but other shapes may prove much more effective.

If you'd like to make a small sphere out of wood or mdf, try this link: http://members.home.net/exquisiteaudio/speakers.htm

AuroraB · 18th August 2001, 11:05 AM

I have used this midrange in several constructions.--- it's one of the very best in Europe, and not very expensive....
SEAS makes some quasi dome shaped chambers for these mid ranges, if your supplier have those, - personally I do prefer a slightly larger chamber, 3-5 ltrs, and I usually make them out of 6 inch PVC ( or paper, etc.) tubing, suspended between the front and rear with support rings made from plywood. If your box is deeper than 8-10 inches this works OK. Dampen the rear end HEAVILY ( 3 inches or more...) with rock wool or dense fiber glass wool, use a piece of light cloth or gauze to keep the fiber dust where it belongs..An oversized mid chamber doesn't really do any harm, as it only affects the very lower freq's, hopefully well outside your x-over freq??
Asphalt or bitumen coatings can release petroleum vapours, which might be harmful to your drivers, --i.e. cone, rubber suspension etc.

[Edited by AuroraB on 08-18-2001 at 06:08 AM]

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17th August 2001, 09:18 PM	#1
zach diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2001	I need to chamber this driver in my 3-way, and I can't decide how to go about doing it. I am thinking about makeing a square box of about 3-3.5 L and do the asphalt tile on the sides method and stuff liberally with polyfill i have heard this is a good smple, general way.. I have also heard about cutting a sonotube and leaving the back end open, but sliced diagonally to catch standing waves in the end of the "chamber". I was wondering if you guys had any good ideas, especially if you've used this specific driver. Thanks.

17th August 2001, 10:55 PM	#2
Super diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Connecticut	There are a few possibilities that I'm aware of. Some of the designs I've seen is a triangular enclosure, shaped like a wedge. This is going to eliminate the standing waves caused by the 90 degree angles of a conventional cube. The enclosure could be covered in thick speaker felt to absorb some waves as well. A variation of that sonotube method may work even better. A recent Parts Express project included adding a rear chamber to the Dayton 1 1/8 inch tweeter, made out of PVC. It may be hard to attach 5 inch PVC to this driver, but the thinner, sonotube or Quickrete tube may work better. The tube, cut to the appropriate volume, stuffed, and then capped at the end may work well. Also, a cap that you can slide back and forth along the end of the tube can allow for easy tweaking or adjustment. Once you've found the proper length and placement of the end cap, you can mark the side of the tube, and then glue or seal the cap to the end. However, it may be difficult finding area on the driver basket to attach the tube solidly. A cube might be the easiest to make, but other shapes may prove much more effective. If you'd like to make a small sphere out of wood or mdf, try this link: http://members.home.net/exquisiteaudio/speakers.htm

18th August 2001, 11:05 AM	#3
AuroraB diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Norway, -north of the moral circle..	I have used this midrange in several constructions.--- it's one of the very best in Europe, and not very expensive.... SEAS makes some quasi dome shaped chambers for these mid ranges, if your supplier have those, - personally I do prefer a slightly larger chamber, 3-5 ltrs, and I usually make them out of 6 inch PVC ( or paper, etc.) tubing, suspended between the front and rear with support rings made from plywood. If your box is deeper than 8-10 inches this works OK. Dampen the rear end HEAVILY ( 3 inches or more...) with rock wool or dense fiber glass wool, use a piece of light cloth or gauze to keep the fiber dust where it belongs..An oversized mid chamber doesn't really do any harm, as it only affects the very lower freq's, hopefully well outside your x-over freq?? Asphalt or bitumen coatings can release petroleum vapours, which might be harmful to your drivers, --i.e. cone, rubber suspension etc. [Edited by AuroraB on 08-18-2001 at 06:08 AM]