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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: US
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Hello,
I have a tweeter capacitor with a value of 3uf. I'll like to "re-cap" with 2 X Mundorf 1.5uf in parallel. My question is, would there be a sonic advantage to using one cap that is supreme silver/oil and the other a regular supreme? Or, does the sound quality just default the poorest cap? Thanks, Ken |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: calcutta
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hi
depends on how good / or accurate your tweeter is could you please mention its make and model and how good your measuring equipment is - , where if you change or use a cross over with the best components available to a one with generalparts - you will find an audible difference , but if you change only one cap it may not make much of a audible improvement Suranjan |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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I think it best to use one 3u silver, or two 1.5u silver. Since these have good acurracy, it should be not problem in sound quality.
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Hear the real thing! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Indiana
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Brand apart, the type of cap makes a huge diff. Generally (exceptions always exist) speaking, on a scale for worst to better:
- Electrolytics - Tantalums - Polystyrene - Polypropylene - Paper in Oil. You will not believe the difference you can make from replacing stock eletrolytics with Polypropylenes..... |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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The supreme silver/oil seems to be metalized paper in oil. So that seems good. Wonder what other brands have good metalized paper in oil?
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Hear the real thing! |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Indiana
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To answer the original question, electrically two 1.5uF in paralell are better than a single 3 uF because of lower ESR. However sonically I cannot say...
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Can I sound like a heritic here and suggest that you don't waste your money on mega-priced caps? I'm not implying that some aren't better than others (they certainly are -engineering tolerances are tighter etc), but I've rarely observed the manufacturers of some stupidly priced components (I can buy or build a perfectly good amp for the price of some of these things) displaying any proof whatsoever that their product has better performance than some much cheaper equivelants. Why? Simple: they can't.
I look at it this way: say you have a total of £100 to spend on a tweeter and a cap. You will invariably get better results spending £95 on the tweeter and £5 (or less ) on the cap than spending £95 on the cap and £5 on the tweeter. Am I overstating? Not really, I've known people do just that, and wonder why they were disappointed. Electricity is electricity. It's the drive units shifting air that you listen to. Just a thought. Cheers Scott. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
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Ok now hold on! Are you saying that better drivers reproduce sound better? Unbelievable!
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Quote:
OK, if you will now excuse me, I have to go now to renew my subscription to the Church of Snake-oil... Best Scott |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Indiana
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Quote:
The driver I had this connected to was a medium quality Vifa P13WH. With the Polypropylene, the sound was open, clear and holographic. With the Lytic the sound was congested, blurred and constipated.... Had I not witnessed this myself I would not have believed it. Granted the Lytic was rated at 100v and the Poly at 250v but still the signal never crossed 40vac. P to P As far as $50 caps.... I don't see the benefit either.... I guess I have not played with those yet to form an opinion. The effect I heard had nothing to do with tolerances, just a characteristic of the cap design I guess.... Also let it be know I am not a "buy expensive cable and see the magic" type either, but when t comes to components, i know they make a difference. K- |
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