Need tips on OB construction and staining.

[GuyPanico]

With my line array well underway, i'm faced with final construction and finishing. I'm using inexpensive pine ($10.50 per 1x8x6') pieces which I picked through to find the most attractive grain. What i'm having a hard time with as far as physical construction, is how to affix the wings to the front baffle. I'm going to make a pretty simple " ] " shaped baffle. Since i'm staining the wood, and going to radius the edges, I cant use screws. I also cant really use brackets because the midrange drivers are offset to one side of the baffle and there's not enough room except at the very top and bottom. Any ideas?

I've also never stained anything before. What is the basic procedure for pine? I know I need to pretreat the wood to avoid blotching of the stain. Do dark stains work well with pine? I'm wanting them to be pretty dark and shiney.

Thanks all.

[Chaucer]

Going through the same exact decisions myself.

Help out 2 Diyers at the same time!

[dswiston]

I'm not an expert but from my gatherings, pine doesn't stain well if untreated (more so if its a dark stain). It will usually look blotchy. I also experienced this first hand with some maple, which is the other wood I've read doesn't take stain evenly.

I know there are sealers and such out there you might want to try. Someone else who is better with finishing might also want to extend/correct me.

[Scottmoose]

Originally posted by dswiston
I'm not an expert but from my gatherings, pine doesn't stain well if untreated (more so if its a dark stain). It will usually look blotchy. I also experienced this first hand with some maple, which is the other wood I've read doesn't take stain evenly.

I know there are sealers and such out there you might want to try. Someone else who is better with finishing might also want to extend/correct me.

All quite true. You might want to consider using a coloured wax as it's easier to apply, or some form of antique oil finish. These tend to work better with soft woods than other methods in my experience (though I don't pretend to be an expert).

For the side baffles, I'd try attaching them to the sides of the front baffle, not the back, which should allow more scope for clamps. With a bit of judicious planing, it'll look fine -lots of people have done that (including me for a pair of Voigt pipes I was asked to build by a friend who didn't know any better).

If that won't do, try this: lay out a long piece of bubble-wrap to protect the drivers, and lay the front baffle down flat. Place the two side-pieces in position with a liberal quantity of glue, and lay another piece of scrap wood over the back, like a rear pannel. Then add a few heavy weights (some paint-tins etc) and leave overnight. Not ideal, but it works.

Best
Scott

[Nuuk]

You can get some interesting and pleasing finishes by using two coats of stain. Use a light stain for the first coat and a darker one over the top. I used pitch pine and medium oak (on some sideboards) and the result is very good.

[Audiophilenoob]

gel stain it...

or spray the stain on...

or if you must brush... mist the wood with water to raise the grain than sand off as much as you can... then use a thinned sealer on the wood ... then stain over the sealer... not a 100 year long lasting stain... but it will be more uniform

[GuyPanico]

How would I go about getting a shiney and smooth finish after staining?

[pinkmouse]

Wax, and lots of elbow grease...

[GuyPanico]

lol. What about a polyurethane or laquer finish? Are they fairly easy to apply with good results?

[Nuuk]

lol. What about a polyurethane or laquer finish? Are they fairly easy to apply with good results?

I get good results and the secret is to use a good brush.