DonoMan said:
Most certainly, depending on the crossover freq. (and type) though. For instance if you are just planning on using the ribbon over 6kHz with a 3rd order filter then you would be just as well off using the G2Si (provided you didn't need as much vertical radiation). IF however you want the driver to operate lower in freq. then the LCY is FAR better.
Jim Salk's Accubob (and my poor picture reduction technique..)
Attachments
I dont think the SS Rev's would keep up in detail with ribbon tweeters..DonoMan said:
I recommend Seas Excels and spend the rest of the money on a proper crossover (with money saved).
hah..you have ribbon tweeters in your car too!shaunly said:Im running those LCy 130 in my car right now, and all i have to say is!!! They're freaken awsome, very smooth and detail without harshness. Mine is cross at 2.5k with a 24db slope. I highly recommend it. I've heard other ribbon and they dont compare to the lcy.
I had them in my home and moved them to to car and getting another set for my home again..
you can order them through NpDang@gmail.com ..just tell him your from diyaudio.comDonoMan said:
Dave,
I thought you loved ribbons?
I still am deciding on which one to get. I wanted the LCY130 for a long time and to mate it to the 7" revelator... and still do but no one here seemed to know anything about the LCY... now it seems quite a few people love them.
I have since been wanting to get a ribbon but a higher efficiency than the LCY. I"ve been eyeing the Fountek NeoCD2 and wanting to pair it up with a high efficiency mid.
I wish i could just buy 10 grand worth of drivers and mix and experiment till i pass out......
sardon
sardonx said:
I made a copy of the LCY 130 ribbon... exactly the same but it's 95db/w efficent vs. 93db/w like the real LCY
the sound simply is first rate from both the orginal and the "improved" copy ... I had a pair of LCY 130's to begin with but returned them to DIY a better option
I bought quite a few drivers to experiment with and returned the ones that "failed"
the LCY is a fairly easy ribbon to DIY... I made a pair of "improved" copies for $70 total...
in several ways it seems my "copies" surpass the LCY 130... mostly in efficency though, but to my ears the sound is somewhat more precise and "clear"... I really don't know why this is..... maybe it's just partly a "proud daddy"
very very very very nice sounding tweeters without all the problems with dispersion normally associated with ribbons now adays
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61814
there's not too much "construction" to guide you on... if you need help understanding the concept Dhenry wrote a full on DIY ribbon guide quite awhile ago...
ribbon material is 4.3 micron pure aluminum foil... which is far more efficent than the 6 micron used in the LCY... though it is WAY harder to work with (I have a roll of 5.8 micron as well)... the LCY ribbon is a 1.5"x.75" ribbon... and I copied this exactly... I was able to achieve 1/64" between the ribbon and the poles... which is STAGGERING for cutting down on 3rd harmonic distortion
anything over 1/16" is considered good... most companies strive for 1/32"...
on one ribbon in some places the gap is less than 1/4 of a mm
as far as winding the xfrmer... it's 45 trifiliar windings of 13 awg for the primary on a 2.75" round 77 ferrite core... with 3 secondary windings of 20 guage that are trifiliar with 4 total wires paralleled... this is for 4 ohms nominal
the magnets are .5"x.5" cubes N50 Neo magnets... stacked 6 per pole making 1.5" ribbon just like the LCY... it's 1" deep .... creating a field of .95T... or more than that... 24 of these were $30 on ebay... the most expensive item
the steel is 1"x.5" and is 4 peices which are screwed together with steel bolts
the flanges are .5" oak and recess into my speakers...... they are rounded into the gap... by hand... the "slope" into the gap is more than what a normal quarter round would be... very curved... VERY helpful to cut down on pole defraction and such
I used aluminum mesh screen material (not shown) to make a permanent grill attached to the flange that's bolt to the front... this is VERY tight and won't allow even under pressure a person to touch the ribbon
also the ribbon is nearly airtight with foam tape on the edges around the poles and the flange... this creates a noteably softer sound as no sound is allowed to "miss" the flange opening and go behind the flange... also any sound that hits this is dampened somewhat... it made an audible difference for sure
edit: forgot... polymide tape was used to creat a uniform surface for the poles to the ribbon itself... this cuts down on any irregularities on the magnets surface... and where the magnets meet there is no "gap" there for distortion to increase from
there's not too much "construction" to guide you on... if you need help understanding the concept Dhenry wrote a full on DIY ribbon guide quite awhile ago...
ribbon material is 4.3 micron pure aluminum foil... which is far more efficent than the 6 micron used in the LCY... though it is WAY harder to work with (I have a roll of 5.8 micron as well)... the LCY ribbon is a 1.5"x.75" ribbon... and I copied this exactly... I was able to achieve 1/64" between the ribbon and the poles... which is STAGGERING for cutting down on 3rd harmonic distortion
anything over 1/16" is considered good... most companies strive for 1/32"...
on one ribbon in some places the gap is less than 1/4 of a mm
as far as winding the xfrmer... it's 45 trifiliar windings of 13 awg for the primary on a 2.75" round 77 ferrite core... with 3 secondary windings of 20 guage that are trifiliar with 4 total wires paralleled... this is for 4 ohms nominal
the magnets are .5"x.5" cubes N50 Neo magnets... stacked 6 per pole making 1.5" ribbon just like the LCY... it's 1" deep .... creating a field of .95T... or more than that... 24 of these were $30 on ebay... the most expensive item
the steel is 1"x.5" and is 4 peices which are screwed together with steel bolts
the flanges are .5" oak and recess into my speakers...... they are rounded into the gap... by hand... the "slope" into the gap is more than what a normal quarter round would be... very curved... VERY helpful to cut down on pole defraction and such
I used aluminum mesh screen material (not shown) to make a permanent grill attached to the flange that's bolt to the front... this is VERY tight and won't allow even under pressure a person to touch the ribbon
also the ribbon is nearly airtight with foam tape on the edges around the poles and the flange... this creates a noteably softer sound as no sound is allowed to "miss" the flange opening and go behind the flange... also any sound that hits this is dampened somewhat... it made an audible difference for sure
edit: forgot... polymide tape was used to creat a uniform surface for the poles to the ribbon itself... this cuts down on any irregularities on the magnets surface... and where the magnets meet there is no "gap" there for distortion to increase from
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