Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 21st May 2005, 08:17 AM   #1
philip is offline philip  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ireland
Question Attack of the Clone

After two years of solid research and reading of the diyaudio.com pages, I’m finally ready to begin my own project. I’m probably only going to do this once, so I want to get it as good as I can. Reading up on speakers, I was taken by various attempts to “clone” commercial products, namely the Wilson Audio WATT/puppy combo; this speaker became my benchmark in performance and looks. As my drivers are totally different, any resemblance will be in looks (and hopefully performance) but what the heck!

I really like what Tony Gee does – he puts a lot of design into his projects – and so want to use the drivers and crossover of the “Tempo” (Seas tweeter, Vifa PL18WO mid) but in a closed box of ~15L for the top half. For the bottom half I want to use the Seas L22RN4X/P ported in a ~30L enclosure. This would be a 2.5-way loudspeaker (like some of Tony Gee's other projects) with a 1st order low-pass filter and zobel correction on the woofer. So far so good if you're only using one woofer, but here's where it gets interesting. I want to use two woofers. Is this possible?

I have no idea how to wire this. If I run the 2 L22’s in parallel, the sensitivity goes up way above that of the Tempo. If I run them in series then I now have a 16ohm load vs. the 8ohm of the uppers and who knows what will happen. So what do I do? I need the help of the diyaudio.com community because I really want to make this work. Thanks for any help in advance,

Philip
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st May 2005, 09:42 AM   #2
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 4
Default Re: Attack of the Clone

Quote:
Originally posted by philip
I’m probably only going to do this once
It is VERT hard to do it only once... not only is it addicting, with what you learn building the 1st one, you just know how to build the next one better

Quote:
I want to use two woofers. Is this possible?
What XO point were you thinking of? If less than 200-250 Hz you really should be thinking active woofers -- then the relative sensitivities don't matter.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st May 2005, 09:57 AM   #3
philip is offline philip  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ireland
Yeah, you're probably right, just reading about speakers is addicting. I mean build an all out project when I say do it once, this stuff isn't cheap. I've built a few kits so far but have been saving and planning for this special one so want to do it right.

The crossover point is not decided, but could be anywhere from ~150 like the real thing upwards. Tony Gee's Andromeda (1 x focal 13kx) uses 300Hz I think, and ~500Hz I think for the Geers EveII which he helped design (1 x ss 8"); these are examples of other series 2.5 way projects I know. Either way, two main considerations deciding the range of the crossover would be the roll off of the Vifa PL18 and the wierd cone action of the metal cone at higher Hz. I anticipate choosing a crossover point in the range of 150-300, maybe closer to 300. I could use the L26 to overcome this problem, but I really like the look of the 2x8's and they model a bit better for my purposes. I want to keep this project passive to maintain their versatility and because I like the concept of an integrated speaker i.e one input, speaker does the rest.

Philip
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st May 2005, 10:16 AM   #4
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 4
Quote:
Originally posted by philip
I mean build an all out project when I say do it once
Something i always try to talk people out of... you are likely to find that building up a couple simplier projects 1st will actually save you money...

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st May 2005, 11:21 AM   #5
philip is offline philip  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ireland
Maybe I need to back the train up a bit and ask a different question. This is about sensitivity. Before I knew much I would have said just run the two L22's in paralell and then cross them over to the upper speakers. However, I have heard that when you run two speakers in parallel their sensitivity increases by 6dB. That's what's stopping me. What are the effects of running two woofers in series (16ohm load) or parallel (4ohm load) on sensitivty?

The reason I am confused is because if you look at many mtm designs, you have 2 woofers in parallel being crossed over to a tweeter, often of similar sensitivity. If there is a massive sensitivity boost by running two woofers in paralell, then the speakers should not sound right, but mtm's sound great. What is going on in this situation?

Philip
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st May 2005, 11:36 AM   #6
philip is offline philip  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ireland
p.s. I know this has been discussed before with the general conclusion that in theory running two woofers in paralell raises sensitivity by 6dB. However, previous posts discuss additional factors such as driver spacing and baffle step but are ambiguous as to their effects on sensitivity.

Philip
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st May 2005, 07:26 PM   #7
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 4
Quote:
Originally posted by philip
I want to keep this project passive to maintain their versatility and because I like the concept of an integrated speaker i.e one input, speaker does the rest.
I always figured separate powered woofers were more flexible.... even a couple plate amps would do the job.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st May 2005, 07:29 PM   #8
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 4
Quote:
Originally posted by philip
I have heard that when you run two speakers in parallel their sensitivity increases by 6dB
Depends on your amp... again better just to have a separate amp -- and if you are crossing as low as you suggest, often cheaper. Certainly a much higher probability of better sonics.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd May 2005, 08:00 AM   #9
philip is offline philip  Canada
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ireland
Hey man, yeah, I'm sure separate powered woofers would sound great - I've heard that biwiring can really make improvements. However, there are many factors, not all of them related to speakers, that have led me to a single-amp design. As for the 2 8's, part of that is just me.

Anyways, I've been doing a lot thinking about this design. I know that it isn't recommended that you attenuate a woofer because of the high power involved, but I had an idea: Instead of using one attenuation circuit for the two woofers combined, what if I was to attenuate each woofer separately, so that their overall circuit was attenuated. For example, the sensitivity of the upper system is 87dB/1W/1m. What if I was to attenuate each of the L22's from 86 to 81, so that when run in parallel they achieve 87dB. I don't have an excessively powered amplifier, nor would I be running them at loud volumes so I don't know if this would be a problem in my case. Would this work?

Philip
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd May 2005, 08:44 AM   #10
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Blog Entries: 4
Quote:
Originally posted by philip
Would this work?
Not without affecting the sonics... the phrase "suck the life out of the music comes to mind". If you don't go active on the bottom, keep the XO 300 Hz +

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Attack of the mutant reflow toaster peufeu Parts 18 18th September 2009 06:42 AM
Virus Attack Help boris333 Everything Else 1 7th May 2009 02:10 PM
Gomyhit_com virus attack............ ashok Everything Else 21 21st March 2008 05:45 PM
Mosfet Class A drive: Low voltage sharp attack Vgs :VS: Smooth gentle Vgs. Brian Guralnick Solid State 9 20th April 2003 02:11 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:10 PM.

Page generated in 0.12182 seconds (82.75% PHP - 17.25% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio