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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
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Peter, I had access to a router, and routed the outside oak part, but forgot to route the inside of the speaker opening, and I will spend some time sanding smooth and rounding with 60grit paper. It is just mdf, so it should sand easily away.
If you look at the second picture, you will see that the outside edges were rounded, and the speaker mounting place is set in with a router. -- Brian |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Michigan
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Brian,
You are surely the speed king. It just a week ago you found the Thor article in the Audio Express. Your going to be done in no time.They look like their coming along great. I'm sure they will sound pretty good as well. You'll be able to tell us how the Aleph sounds vs the Leach. You might want to practice your staining techniques on some of your discarded cuttings. Finish sanding the test piece as you would the the speaker. Staining is a bit of an art. I'm assuming you have some instructions. Good Job, Rodd Yamas***a |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
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I was struck by your comment of using belt sander to make front flush with the sides. Here are some of my favourite bits. The first one is perfect for above task, second is good if you have to trim the inside of the driver opening, third for making round edges, forth for cutting round holes for drivers (I drill the center hole in the piece, measure the radius, insert the drill in the table and rotate the piece, cutting out the circle), next one is not that stiff so I use it for thin materials. last one is good for trimming inside of the cutout. Router is the most usefull tool for woodworking (especially if it's mounted on a table).
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Nanaimo
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i like those drivers where did yu get them and how much per unit.. ca or us. $ ( the mid bass driver.)
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
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Rodd,
There were two Thor articles in AudioXpress, the one that I have posted at: http://brian.prohosting.com/nancy/thor.pdf is from the July issue of AudioXpress, the latest issue just goes over the construction, while the July issue goes over only the design by D'Appolito (sp?). Once I finish them, I will try them with both amps, and see how they compare. As for staining, my two friends building Thor with me are a step ahead of me, and will start staining first, so I will be able to see how it goes with them and practice on scraps before actually staining my pair of speakers. Peter, I am not really experienced with the routers, I have used a table top router for rounding the sides, and a normal router with a template for making the indentation for the woofers and tweeter, but that is all. I purposely made the sides 1/16" too long, so that I would have extra space to make up for any inaccuracies (none yet), so taking off 1/16" off each side with a belt sander isn't too bad. I am also kind of worried about using a router, because the to red oak layer of the plywood isn't too thick. When I get a plunge router of my own, I will experiment on some scraps myself with bits, but for now, I am just using the tools that my friends have laying around. Thanks for the advice. I also want to buy a router jig for cutting the driver holes, instead of using a jigsaw. Jason, I bought all my drivers from Madisound: http://www.madisound.com/thor.html As for canada, http://www.solen.ca has the kit, and I think the parts available seperately. http://www.zalytron.com/ has just the drivers. $136.50 USD for one woofer. W18E-001 is the model name. Definately read the pdf article on my site about Thor, along with the article in this month's AudioXpress, if you are interested. As for doing the crossover yourself, and buying the drivers, look at the crossover schematic and cabinet design at: http://www.seas.no/thor.htm I am following the exact design for Thor posted on the seas.no website, except for that the external walls are 1.5" thick instead of 1" thick. PDF of cabinet in inches: http://www.seas.no/kit/THORIN.PDF PDF of cabinet in metric: http://www.seas.no/kit/Thor%20cab.pdf PDF of crossover schematic: http://www.seas.no/kit/FILTER_THOR_ODIN.pdf This is my first speaker, so my main goal was to choose a stable design for a transmission line, and build it to the best of my abilities. -- Brian |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Quote:
A 35% percent increase!!! So that plan just flew out the window... They lost me as a customer. If you want to buy just the drivers, Zalytron is the cheapest I could find...
__________________
My girlfriend's sub is bigger than mine...
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Nanaimo
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im still thinking about buying my focal drivers from www.speakercomponents.ca
he is a awsome guy to talk to on the phone and know's what he is talking about.. j' |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
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I've been buying from Zalytron for the last 13 years, always happy.
Usually when I plan to spend big bucks I'll drive there myself so no duties and taxes. I visit family at the same time.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Nanaimo
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where are they located at .. canada ??
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
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Long Island, NY.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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