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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marietta/Moultrie GA
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I've been doing some checking around... need a VERY HIGH PERFORMANCE 8" coax driver, to act as a substitute for a Tannoy 8" driver I can not get regularly (frequently out-of-stock and relatively expensive when available, as in $400 each!)...
Found some specs and such for the Radian 508/2B driver... EXTREMELY good-looking graph, for usage with a "stock" crossover that's available for it. No, it's not cheap... but if it can do what it says, it's worth it. Even better, would be the 5208C... which, AFAIK, is the same driver, only in a CAST basket rather than stamped steel of the 508. Only marginally (like 15% more, AFAIK) more expensive, and if the basket has very "open" windowing in the back, it should be quite a bit better sonically, than the stamped basket with its small windows (less reflection back to the back of the cone)... But, I haven't been able to find any first-hand user info, or any specs on the 5208C... if anyone has used it, or knows where specs (especially a response graph!) are available, I'd appreciate the info greatly... I'm still also looking at the P-Audio and B&C coax drivers... I may wind up ordering one of each of those and the Radian drivers, as well as an Eminence Beta 8CX... time for a driver shoot-out, soon. Thanks! Regards, Gordon.
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Speaker Design, Restoration and Repair- since 1985. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Republik of Kalifonia
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Gordon
I own the Radian 508/B, have for over a year, and can tell you that selling them has never entered my mind. They have a gorgeous presentation, and a common genetic with the Tannoy wing of Altec, if I have that right, and Radian is closely associated with Emilar. I would also look at Ciare, who makes some extreme high quality coaxials. Zalytron has the B&C coax's for a good price, and will include the Co. Rx for XO. But if Tannoy likeness is what you are after, look no further than the 508/512
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"Pilau Buggah, Big Islan Mo Betta!!" |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Romania
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Hello, do you still use the 508/2B ? I guess you've been living with them for some time, it would be great if you could tell some more about the enclosure you are using them in, any subjective impressions..
When purchasing, is the crossover included? Thank you! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Calais, ME
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My favourite speaker - Radian 508. Unfortunately, Radian discontinued their Studio Series. This model has a Polypropylene cone with foam surround.
I have another pair for PA use - the 508/2B. They were in storage for many years. When I took them out last year, the cone disintegrated in my hands. I don't understand why. They were stored under controlled conditions.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Calais, ME
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Looks like my picture failed to upload.
Radian 508
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mountain View, CA
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My concern with coaxials is how the horn mouth terminates into the cone. I'f this isn't a smooth transition I would not expect a smooth FR. I know Tannoy has a decent looking termination, but have not seen anything on the others.
Dan |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Romania
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Yes, I am aware of the many problems related to coaxials (they where debated extensively on the first part of the Beyond Ariel thread) but for my own use they are the best package I can afford and I would like to know a bit more about the 508 2B before ordering them..
@michael chua - thank you for the info, and the pics. It's weird the cones disintegrated.. that's not very good news.. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Also consider the B&C coaxes. They are used in the Danley SH100 and the Seaton Catalyst. My assumption is they are the 8CX21 and 8CXN51 respectively, based upon the descriptions I've seen.
If I was designing my sides/rears from scratch again, the 8CX21 would probably be my driver of choice for the MF/HF. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Calais, ME
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Hi SunRa
I don't really know the cause. It's like dry rot. The paper cone was very brittle. All it took was a light touch and my fingers went right through. This doesn't normally happen when the speaker is in use (ie exposed to air). It could be the plastic envelope that they used to wrap the speaker with. Some plastics are known to be friendly. The other aspect to be aware of is oxidation. The Radian air gap is very tight. Some of my Radian cones are stuck because of this. Again, its due to storage. If used daily, I'm sure these problems will not surface. The Radians I have are quite old, about 10 years. I'm quite sure they have improved on the materials by now. Radians are the best coax that I've tried. The compression driver is very sweet. Similar to the sound of Emilar and JBL2440. No titanium brightness like the JBL2445 (have a pair of those too).
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