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Old 25th April 2005, 08:08 PM   #11
Speakerholic
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Hi Chris,

You may find quite a range of answers on this one but to look at it from a reasonable side of things, you will find things far more important inside your boxes than the wiries going to and from your XO.

Quote:
Originally posted by DIY_newbie
Also, I used gold plated quick disconnects on the midranges and gold plated ring terminals on the tweeters. Should I have just soldered to the actual speaker drivers?
I use aluminum slide on connectors and depress the retainer tab inside so the wire can slide right up to where the connector part slides over the spade. This aluminum connector holds it in place nicely while I solder the wire directly to the spade. I use aluminum so the solder joint is between the wire and the spade as solder doesn't stick to aluminum and you can be sure of a positive connection. In my eyes, a good solder joint is more important that what kind of wire you use.

But that doesn't stop other from having widely varying opinions on this. As mentioned earlier, I try and be as reasonable as possible when considering what materials to use, where and how.

Beware of snake oil, there is much to seen in this hobby.

Cal
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Old 25th April 2005, 08:25 PM   #12
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Hi,
I second the cat 5 utp as speaker wire.
8 cores of insulated 24g in each cable. You can bundle as many as you like after stripping off the outer sheath. 40 ($75) per 1000 feet is cheap. Sound nice and clear & 24 core makes good bass cable @ my length of 700mm. 8core to treble and 16 core to mid.
I have not experimented with the clever braiding suggested on some web sites.
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