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Old 23rd April 2005, 08:45 PM   #21
jleaman is offline jleaman  Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by wrl
Thanks for all the replies. I think maybe I'll try the dye method the Illusus was talking about.

Although bird eye veneers are still pretty expensive. What kind of black dye did you use? Also I'm confused about how this worked, was it because the dye penetrated deeper in the non-grain areas than into the grains?

Thanks again,

-Wes

What about arberite ? The same stuff they use on counter tops you can get this same finnish. I saw some here at the local hardware shop and it doenst have a HUGE HI price either.
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Old 23rd April 2005, 08:59 PM   #22
Illusus is offline Illusus  Canada
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There are many ways you can get a cool, similar finish, but the dyed/sanded wood has that 3D shimmer to it that just can't be beat.

Quote:
was it because the dye penetrated deeper in the non-grain areas than into the grains?
Exactly, the flat grain(less dense) areas absorb the dye deeply, the ridges where grain changes orientation don't absorb the dye much at all. When you sand, you take the thin layer of dyed wood off the ridges. Use fine sandpaper, 220 at least. Takes longer but gives you more control.
The idea for doing this came to me when I was block sanding my ex-project car. To find low/high spots in the body work, you spary a thin coat of black over primer and sand with a flat, light block. The low spots stay black and the primer shows through on the high ridges. Then I gave it a shot with wood, not the first/only one for sure.

I hope I finish my speakers first! I planned on the same finish! Don't want to look like a copy cat.
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Old 23rd April 2005, 09:17 PM   #23
wrl is offline wrl  United States
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Default Re: Copycat

I don't think you have to worry about me finishing first. I've kinda been continually working on this project for the last 3 years and I think that I spend about 90% more time thinking about it (mostly when I should be paying attention in class), than actually doing anything.

Thanks for the info

-Wes
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Old 23rd April 2005, 09:42 PM   #24
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The grain pattern looks a lot like what the veneer suppliers call "quilted maple." I've used it before and it's beautiful wood.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 23rd April 2005, 10:40 PM   #25
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Default All the elements to the explation are here you just need to put them together.

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The grain pattern looks a lot like what the veneer suppliers call "quilted maple." I've used it before and it's beautiful wood.
Quote:
There are many ways you can get a cool, similar finish, but the dyed/sanded wood has that 3D shimmer to it that just can't be beat.
This is indeed quilted maple and illusus has described most of the process.

You do need to colour the veneer. There are a number of ways. If you want to go the aniline dye way you should moisten the surface of the veneer with a clean damp rag. This will raise the grain a little bit. Let it dry. The next day or the afternoon if you did it in the morning you can apply the dye over the surface. You will get the colour variation. Then you can sand by hand with the grit sugested. If you like the colour clear coat a couple of times and then follow normal finishing practice.

Method number two involves a hybrid. Do the moisten bit. Mix up a batch of filler and tint it. It could be plaster of paris. Mix in some carbon black or black vegetable dye. Spread this slurry all over the surface and let it dry thoroughly. Sand untill you get the colour effect that you want. With this tequnique you can dye again using the aniline dye to create more shading while keeping the darker hilights.

PRACTICE FIRST

No Kidding

If you get the hang of this you can create some wicked effects.

P.S. The more quilted the maple the better the effect as you can see on the B&W's. They go through a hell of alot of veneer before they find that stuff. Better go in with some pictures before you buy. Because it is usually ordered sight unseen if you go with a paper back there has to be some damn good communication for something of this nature.

Mark
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Old 23rd April 2005, 11:28 PM   #26
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Yup, at the price of quilted maple, make sure you know what you're getting. glveneer.com wants US$964.25 or about $30/sq.ft. for a 4x8 paper-backed sheet. Ouch!
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Old 23rd April 2005, 11:38 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by Byrd
Heatmiser - There is a history.
Thanks for filling in those details. I stand corrected.

ShinOBIWAN, I owe you an apology for jumping on you like I did.

That's what I get for taking terms like "real wood veneers" at face value even when they come from a brochure. Those marketing folks are more creative (better liars) than I thought.
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Old 24th April 2005, 01:37 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by HeatMiser


Thanks for filling in those details. I stand corrected.

ShinOBIWAN, I owe you an apology for jumping on you like I did.

That's what I get for taking terms like "real wood veneers" at face value even when they come from a brochure. Those marketing folks are more creative (better liars) than I thought.
Hey no problem, no offense taken.

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Old 24th April 2005, 01:58 AM   #29
wrl is offline wrl  United States
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Lou, what kind of veneer was that?

I know you said it was man-made, do you remember how much it cost? My speakers are 5 feet tall ESL base cabinets so I really don't think I can afford birds eye maple, but maybe some other type of cheaper veneer would still look good. Although that grain pattern is really sweet.

Does anyone have recommendations for cheaper types of veneer that might still look good with this finish?

Thanks all,

-Wes
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Old 24th April 2005, 03:40 AM   #30
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Default It's called Formica

Yeah there are similar formica or the competitions plastic laminate. It's a hell of a lot cheaper to. And there is no finishing.

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