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#101 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: USA
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Wow, marble speakers would be crazy heavy, especially ones the size of mine
-Wes
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Anything worth doing is worth doing right... and redoing to make it better... and again to fix it back the way it was. |
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#102 |
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diyAudio Member
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gday!
first hand - it's no a problem realy. do you want to transport it often? I'm not sure. ![]() second - anyway you have to use very strong material, or thick wood, or veneer for nice box damping. and your box will be heavy as well. isn't it? should you will make it yourself - you want to get maximum quality, so it's not easy way.
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Artmaster live in www.artmaydan.org.ua |
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#103 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: USA
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Mark,
How is the shop setup progressing? -Wes
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Anything worth doing is worth doing right... and redoing to make it better... and again to fix it back the way it was. |
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#104 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have power a running table saw and jointer/planer. THe shaper is ready to move in to. Should be fully functional by the end of the month. Right now I'm working on heat. Got a big wood stove and am preparing the chimeny.
Mark
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Mark |
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#105 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: USA
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OK, back from a long delay (finishing school) I finally have time to finish these darn things.
I was doing some more experimentation with the veneer/practice blanks and I really like the look of just spraying on some dye and then sealing with shellac then lacquer. The wood has a little bit of irradescence that makes it look really nice. My question now is how to get rid of the wood grain texture in my final surface. I know that pore filling is how this is usually done, and I would simply use plaster of paris, but this seems to eliminate the irradescene of the veneer. Can I fill with multiple coats of lacquer and then sand back? Or do I need to get something like polyurethane? Any other suggestions? Thanks, Wes
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Anything worth doing is worth doing right... and redoing to make it better... and again to fix it back the way it was. |
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#106 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes you can!
You need thre or more coats before you start sanding. Use a block and soapy water as a lubricant. Sand it down with 320 until it looks decent and then coat with a couple more layers of laquer. Then sand it down. It is a good idea to coat the layers within a hour or less. Let it dry thoroughly for at least a day or two. THen sand them and give them the subsequent coats. Let it dry again for atlest a couple of days. Then sand it well. Give it a beauty coat. Let that set up a couple of weeks and then if you want the whole nine yards you sand it with 1000 lubricated at all times with the water and soap. And then buff it with automotive cream buffing compound. Yes it can be done by hand. Will look like a million bucks. Bottom line think this way. A good coat of laquer wet is about 0.012" If you have thinned it correctly and taking into consideration the actual solids content you may build up a layer of around 0.005". Not much! When I was doing some board room tables the first time I did what you want to. It took 36 coats of laquer to get that glass smooth surface. I since have cut that down to less than 12. Practice makes perfect! MArk
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Mark |
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#107 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: USA
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36 coats!!! Oh man, these things are 5 feet tall! I better buy some more pints of lacquer... or maybe a case. I cracked and bought a small air compressor and I am planning on buying a spray gun next weekend. It won't run an HVLP system, but I figure it should be better than trying to brush on coats. I think its about $75 from home depot. A quick question about where the veneer edges meet. I know there was some previous discussion about pounding/malleting/killing cats, but I was still unclear as to how this method works. I have angles that are only 30 degrees along one side and I like to keep them relatively sharp so bending a single sheet isn't an option. but fortunately the angles should make edge matching unnecessary. I'll post pics soon to hopefully make is more clear. Thanks so much for all your help so far. I know that many of my projects and possibly my interest in speakers in general might have crashed long ago if not for this site. -Wes
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Anything worth doing is worth doing right... and redoing to make it better... and again to fix it back the way it was. |
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#108 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Prairie Wasteland, Canada
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Quote:
30deg...when I have such angle I build a jig to hold a razor blade at a corresponding angle to cut the venner with...but bashing some butt joints together works damn well too(I think I mentioned it a month or two ago). I'm a little confused though...30deg is pretty acute, are you sure it's not sixty( it all depends on how you look at it). Got a drawing/plan? Mark's block sanding suggestion is spot on... personally, I like to use a balsa wood block(nice and true) and let it's own weight do the work...smooth as a baby's bum. Edit...What's wrong with butt? can't say butt 'round here without getting a hassle?
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Fighting the program since 1976. |
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#109 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Burleson TX
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Very nice look, and you'll pay dearly for it too!
I have used the folks before, might get some ideas here; http://www.woodnshop.com/Hardwood/Walnut_Veneer.htm Good luck DC
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youi can't do that...why it's heresey....or so they said to Paul Klipsch! |
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#110 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Bavarian Forest
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There is a method to transfer the surface of sandstone to textile, which can result in similar patterns, depending on the stone.
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