High sensitivity(>90db) budget speakers wanted - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 22nd April 2005, 02:23 PM   #11
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
How about a Fostex, crossed at about 100 Hz to a “pro” 10 inch driver like an Eminence Delta 10 or Kappa Pro www.loudspeakersplus.com/html/delta10.html or www.usspeaker.com/KAPPAPRO-10-1.htm or Fane 10MB www.loudspeakersplus.com/html/crescendo.html

These three are all 96-99 db to match the FE207.

Both brands (now) have good reputations, pick the driver with best specs for your application, probably lowest Fs. P.Audio is an equally good brand, though I don’t know their models as well.

Any of these I think would give much better bass than horn loading a Fostex.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2005, 02:53 PM   #12
kmj is offline kmj  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
kmj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Falkenberg
The thing is (as i wrote) that i don't know the first thing about designing cabinets an such, build them? Yes, Design? No

So what I need is something that has all this available from the start.

How about a FE167 with the recommended standard bass reflex enclosure? But how does fullrange bookshelf work without sub-support?
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2005, 02:54 PM   #13
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
To easily check out most of the good high efficiency woofer options, 10" or other: www.usspeaker.com/homepage.htm & select the size you want; drill down for specs.

There's a lot there
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2005, 03:07 PM   #14
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
I think the most before rolloff you’ll get from a FE207 in a bass reflex is about 70-80 Hz. A FE167 won’t go as low. Low Xmax drivers.

I understand your point about designing cabinets. But for vented and esp. for sealed, it’s not much more than playing around with Unibox. You can get more than enough help here.

If you put in a bit more design effort, there is more challenge, more learning, and you can choose something that better fits your personal needs.

In summary more reward. Otherwise you have less options.

What’s trickier is crossover design, but again you can get more than enough help here.

BTW if you add a bass below a Fostex, I’d go for the 166/167.

Cheers
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2005, 03:18 PM   #15
kmj is offline kmj  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
kmj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Falkenberg
I get your point about the joy of learning. However, the thing i like is valveamps, the speakers are just something i need to use these amps.

Well, I've got some reading to do and the first things on the list is to start/finish my pre-amp and hypex poweramps..
Then we can start with valves and speakers, a subwoofer is not an option as long as i live in an appartment thou. Now it's all about space...

Edit
Thanks for the pointers
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2005, 03:29 PM   #16
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
I understand a sub is not on the agenda.
Yes a lot to this hobby. You apparently place the most importance on the amp – not my personal view, but fair enough.

A 97 db combo like a Fostex/ pro bass should sound pretty damn good, and perfect for valve amps in all but the largest of rooms. I only thought of such a combo tonight (if I knew about such drivers two years ago & thought of it earlier, I would have done it myself!)

Cheers
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2005, 07:32 PM   #17
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pretoria, South Africa
30x30x120, if you can extend the width to accomodate a 12" or 15" MID-Bass in an active setup you'd be in for quite a surprize if you can find a good matching horn tweeter (part of the problem). Behringer DCX is key to this and a couple of places have them going for rather cheap. I wouldn't be happy with small valve amps driving a ~90dB efficient midrange/wideband speaker (sorry, but the Bushhorn simply cannot be considdered fullrange for most music). Just build a good cabinett (much simpler than a horn) and you'll have some bass too (often missing from HE setups and excused away with the myth called speed)

I personally use the P.Audio SN-15MB which is very clean up to about 1.4kHz and quite tolerable even up to about 2kHz and beyond. A no of 5-6% (around 100dB@1W), a 40-45Hz cab tuning and a Behringer Ultradrive and you're set. Might be a little more that you've budgeted for, but well worth it in the end, especially when combined with a simple measurement setup and if you look at the future flexibility of such a setup and the ability to harness multiple amps if you have more that two chanels available. EQ is in there too.

A 12"/10" Mid-Bass is quite sufficient for most people and simplifies tweeter choice, but likely not to have much bass or efficiency (good ole' Iron Law)

Regards

Martin
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2005, 07:44 PM   #18
kmj is offline kmj  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
kmj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Falkenberg
Quote:
I wouldn't be happy with small valve amps driving a ~90dB efficient midrange/wideband speaker (sorry, but the Bushhorn simply cannot be considdered fullrange for most music). Just build a good cabinett (much simpler than a horn) and you'll have some bass too (often missing from HE setups and excused away with the myth called speed)
So, are you saying that it's a better idé to build a pair of regular 2-way floorstanders with the same sensitivity instead of fullrange?In that case it's no problem since I know of an ultracheap floorstander around 90db with a real good sound (215$+cabinet).
These were my original plan but somehow i got sidetracked

Oh, now i get it... 90db is to low...
Anyway, the possible amps will probaly have atleast around 10W/channel. The primary project around 18W.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2005, 08:16 PM   #19
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pretoria, South Africa
Which is about right for a 97-100dB speaker IME if you want any hint of real dynamics. If you only use it for background listening or in a small room though, it'd probably be alright (assuming reasonable output impedance). Try it out with a 20W amp and decide for yourself how much output you realistically need.

If you can get hold of some Tannoy co-axes you'd be sorted too.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2005, 09:30 PM   #20
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
Mgoedeke

You said matching horn tweeter (part of the problem).
What are good options, what do you use above a P.Audio SN-15MB?
(A Beyma 380 IIRC could do)

Cheers
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
7W enough for 90dB speakers? kacernator Tubes / Valves 26 21st January 2008 04:48 PM
Budget High-Efficiency Speakers? mathman Multi-Way 7 29th March 2007 07:41 PM
help choosing speakers again >90dB wanted kmj Multi-Way 17 10th February 2007 02:14 PM
High Sensitivity, low cost bookshelf speakers? jonnythan Multi-Way 7 1st March 2006 12:50 AM
Ability of a PP 2A3 amp to drive 90db speakers? G Tubes / Valves 32 27th June 2003 05:43 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 03:56 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2