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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
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How about a Fostex, crossed at about 100 Hz to a “pro” 10 inch driver like an Eminence Delta 10 or Kappa Pro www.loudspeakersplus.com/html/delta10.html or www.usspeaker.com/KAPPAPRO-10-1.htm or Fane 10MB www.loudspeakersplus.com/html/crescendo.html
These three are all 96-99 db to match the FE207. Both brands (now) have good reputations, pick the driver with best specs for your application, probably lowest Fs. P.Audio is an equally good brand, though I don’t know their models as well. Any of these I think would give much better bass than horn loading a Fostex. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Falkenberg
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The thing is (as i wrote) that i don't know the first thing about designing cabinets an such, build them? Yes, Design? No
![]() So what I need is something that has all this available from the start. How about a FE167 with the recommended standard bass reflex enclosure? But how does fullrange bookshelf work without sub-support? |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
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To easily check out most of the good high efficiency woofer options, 10" or other: www.usspeaker.com/homepage.htm & select the size you want; drill down for specs.
There's a lot there
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
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I think the most before rolloff you’ll get from a FE207 in a bass reflex is about 70-80 Hz. A FE167 won’t go as low. Low Xmax drivers.
I understand your point about designing cabinets. But for vented and esp. for sealed, it’s not much more than playing around with Unibox. You can get more than enough help here. If you put in a bit more design effort, there is more challenge, more learning, and you can choose something that better fits your personal needs. In summary more reward. Otherwise you have less options. What’s trickier is crossover design, but again you can get more than enough help here. BTW if you add a bass below a Fostex, I’d go for the 166/167. Cheers |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Falkenberg
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I get your point about the joy of learning. However, the thing i like is valveamps, the speakers are just something i need to use these amps.
Well, I've got some reading to do and the first things on the list is to start/finish my pre-amp and hypex poweramps.. Then we can start with valves and speakers, a subwoofer is not an option as long as i live in an appartment thou. Now it's all about space... Edit Thanks for the pointers
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
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I understand a sub is not on the agenda.
Yes a lot to this hobby. You apparently place the most importance on the amp – not my personal view, but fair enough. A 97 db combo like a Fostex/ pro bass should sound pretty damn good, and perfect for valve amps in all but the largest of rooms. I only thought of such a combo tonight (if I knew about such drivers two years ago & thought of it earlier, I would have done it myself!) Cheers
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pretoria, South Africa
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30x30x120, if you can extend the width to accomodate a 12" or 15" MID-Bass in an active setup you'd be in for quite a surprize if you can find a good matching horn tweeter (part of the problem). Behringer DCX is key to this and a couple of places have them going for rather cheap. I wouldn't be happy with small valve amps driving a ~90dB efficient midrange/wideband speaker (sorry, but the Bushhorn simply cannot be considdered fullrange for most music). Just build a good cabinett (much simpler than a horn) and you'll have some bass too (often missing from HE setups and excused away with the myth called speed)
I personally use the P.Audio SN-15MB which is very clean up to about 1.4kHz and quite tolerable even up to about 2kHz and beyond. A no of 5-6% (around 100dB@1W), a 40-45Hz cab tuning and a Behringer Ultradrive and you're set. Might be a little more that you've budgeted for, but well worth it in the end, especially when combined with a simple measurement setup and if you look at the future flexibility of such a setup and the ability to harness multiple amps if you have more that two chanels available. EQ is in there too. A 12"/10" Mid-Bass is quite sufficient for most people and simplifies tweeter choice, but likely not to have much bass or efficiency (good ole' Iron Law) Regards Martin |
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#18 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Falkenberg
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Quote:
These were my original plan but somehow i got sidetracked ![]() Oh, now i get it... 90db is to low... Anyway, the possible amps will probaly have atleast around 10W/channel. The primary project around 18W. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Pretoria, South Africa
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Which is about right for a 97-100dB speaker IME if you want any hint of real dynamics. If you only use it for background listening or in a small room though, it'd probably be alright (assuming reasonable output impedance). Try it out with a 20W amp and decide for yourself how much output you realistically need.
If you can get hold of some Tannoy co-axes you'd be sorted too. |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
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Mgoedeke
You said matching horn tweeter (part of the problem). What are good options, what do you use above a P.Audio SN-15MB? (A Beyma 380 IIRC could do) Cheers |
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