Enamel finish - Page 2

Jim85IROC · 26th April 2005, 05:51 PM

Fred,
I would have agreed with you about the bondo except that I have experienced the same problem on a pair of cabinets that have absolutely no filler material of any kind. Those cabinets were covered with the PE vinyl laminate, so I just used a router to make sure all butt ends were flush, threw a couple coats of black spray paint on, then wrapped in the laminate. Now I can see the same depressions through the laminate.

For my "good" speakers that I plan to build soon, I'm starting to think that perhaps I should cough up the extra dough for baltic birch plywood.

But... I still want to find a cheap alternative so that I can continue to use MDF on my low-budget projects.

BobEllis · 26th April 2005, 07:40 PM

How about using just a 1/4" layer of ply on top of MDF? It is thick enough that you won't get any telegraphing. I did this to get an oak finish on cabinets that were too rough to be prepped for veneer.

I used a watered down wallboard joint compound to seal my painted cabinets 6 months ago and have had no problems with seams telegraphing through. They are in the same room as a hot tub so it can get pretty humid, but they are not ported, which may be the difference. The wallboard compound is easy to apply and easier to sand than bondo, but very dusty.

It may help to put a couple layers of primer on the inside of the cabinet as well to minimize the moisture migration.

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26th April 2005, 05:51 PM	#11
Jim85IROC diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Stamford VT	Fred, I would have agreed with you about the bondo except that I have experienced the same problem on a pair of cabinets that have absolutely no filler material of any kind. Those cabinets were covered with the PE vinyl laminate, so I just used a router to make sure all butt ends were flush, threw a couple coats of black spray paint on, then wrapped in the laminate. Now I can see the same depressions through the laminate. For my "good" speakers that I plan to build soon, I'm starting to think that perhaps I should cough up the extra dough for baltic birch plywood. But... I still want to find a cheap alternative so that I can continue to use MDF on my low-budget projects.

26th April 2005, 07:40 PM	#12
BobEllis diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Upstate NY	How about using just a 1/4" layer of ply on top of MDF? It is thick enough that you won't get any telegraphing. I did this to get an oak finish on cabinets that were too rough to be prepped for veneer. I used a watered down wallboard joint compound to seal my painted cabinets 6 months ago and have had no problems with seams telegraphing through. They are in the same room as a hot tub so it can get pretty humid, but they are not ported, which may be the difference. The wallboard compound is easy to apply and easier to sand than bondo, but very dusty. It may help to put a couple layers of primer on the inside of the cabinet as well to minimize the moisture migration.

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