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#1 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Brain cramp.
I have an 8 ohm tweeter that I crossed over at 12K, 6 dB with a 1.5 mfd cap. It was a little strong so I added a 4ohm resistor to it. The output is fine but now there is an overlap with the mid. What do I have to add to it to get back to the 12K XO point? I'm thinking it's around 9K right now. Thanks for the help ahead of time, Cal Edit: I don't have any 1.1 mfd here right now or this would be easy. I have lots of other assorted so I would like to add to it rather than replace. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: British Columbia ,Canada
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Cal
Shoot me the complete filter.I can crunch something before you come. MLSSA is waiting. Will have praxis to show you as well. Al |
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#3 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Thanks Al,
I actually played around a bit and got it a little better. I'm thinking it's about as ready as it going to be for the test. I'm really enjoying having your LCR units here tonight. It was a real eye opener to hear yours vs mine. Are those gonig to be for sale one day? Cal |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: British Columbia ,Canada
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NO no not LCR
LCR uses the 2 Extremis the CSS125 as a mid and a usher tweeter. You have the RA241 for now. Al |
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#5 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Oops,
Sorry old boy, didn't know they had a number. I'll stamp that one on my heart How 'bout we have a duel tomorrow, 7pm, your place, ten paces, turn and fire your remote at the amp and we'll see who comes out on top. Mind you, mines bigger. Cal |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
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Quote:
By inserting the 4 ohm resistor on its own you changed the tweeters effective impedance to 12 ohms and this has changed the timing cct of the capacitor hence shifting the crossover point. To fix this you need to add a 2.2 resistor in series after the 1.5 uF capacitor and an 18 ohm in parallel with the tweeter. This will bring the tweeter level down by about 3dB and maintain 8 ohms for the crossover capacitor. Cheers
__________________
http://sites.google.com/site/quasisdiyaudiosite/ |
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#7 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Hi quasi,
Thanks a lot for your response. I did what I could with what I had on hand for now. I added an 8.2 across after the 4.2 in line, dropping the dB's heavy and basically bringing my XO back to the separation I had before and it actually sounds OK. The tweeter is quite efficient so no big deal. Man, I am such a hack. I'll have another go atter tomorrow before I head over to RAW I'm going to bed. Cal |
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#8 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Cal,
the easy answer is to change the cap to 1 uF to get back the same nominal XO frequency (13,300 Hz). Nothing else required. If needed i'll teleport one over dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Adelaide, Australia
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Quote:
Hi Cal, If he does that he will shift the crossover frequency back, but the level will be the same. I read that he wanted to bring the level down because it was too strong. Adding two resistors is still pretty easy. Cheers
__________________
http://sites.google.com/site/quasisdiyaudiosite/ |
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#10 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
an L-pad is more appropriate with a more complex XO or when you want to be able to dynamically change the level, but this is better when it is a simple cap XO. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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