Time to get serious

[edjosh23]

I've been listening to my wr 125's for a few months now and I really enjoy them. I recently added some Hi-Vi TN28s to them for a little fun (sounds much better with the tweeter). But I never finished these speakers, there were just test boxes and now I'm ready to add a permanent tweeter, a permanent woofer, a permanent XO, and a nice enclosure.

Like everything I do, I'd like to try to keep it on a budget.

I've been watching more and more movies in my room and the wr125s get low, but not as low as I want. Since this is my home theater I'm running my Denon 1804 (90wpc). But I would kinda like to have the "A" channel be for the wr125s and the tweeter, and have the "B" channel be for the woofer. I'm guessing that each channel will have 90watts, this way the woofer can have a full 90watts to itself instead of sharing it with two other speakers.
I'm not sure if that will work or not, if that will or won't work I would like someone to tell me.

Remember this is all passive XOs.
I can just wire it normal 3 way with the passives, but I'm afraid the woofers won't have enough power to really kick.

I'm looking at woofers and I like the Hi-Vi D8.8, the X217WR3308 looks pretty nice as does the X217WR3304. The DAYTON SD215-8-8 and the DAYTON RS225S-8. They all look like great woofers. I want to put the woofer in the front of the cabinet so I like the idea of an 8", but low frequency responce is also important. I'm going to vent the woofer.

The wr125s will have a reworked TL part of the enclosure and will run rull range (maybe).

The Hi-Vi's TN28s are temporary, but sound quite nice. I'd rather not design a speaker with a top mount tweeter, I'm not good enough with wood to really make it look nice, and am not good enough with fiberglass to make it work like a B&W. I'd like to try out the HI-VI RT1L, they are very cool little tweeters.

What do you all think? Which woofer would give me the efficiency that I want to have lots of bass, and not need tons of power to really kick? Do you like the idea of using the HI-VI RT1L? Any other suggestions or comments?
I'd also love to hear some ideas on what the box could look like.

Thanks,

Josh

[edjosh23]

I did some work in winISD comparing some subs, I had a little trouble fitting all of them onto one screen, but I think it worked.

What do you all think of the woofers? Which would you all prefer?
The peerless and the Vifa don't look very promising.



Thanks,

Josh

[planet10]

If you want to use 8", and you want it to go low, i think there is one particular Peerless that is outstanding... can never remember its number... Fs of 25 Hz thou.

dave

[planet10]

and the new extremis from Adire -- there would be a family resemblence with the WR125 since they are both from the hand of Dan Wiggins.

dave

[ShinOBIWAN]

Originally posted by planet10
If you want to use 8", and you want it to go low, i think there is one particular Peerless that is outstanding... can never remember its number... Fs of 25 Hz thou.

dave

Also try modelling the Seas L22-RN4X/P another 8" with an Fs of 23hz.

[edjosh23]

Thanks for the recomendations, I was going to go with the Koda, but now I think I might have to go with the seas.

Here are the two speakers modeled. I think overall the seas would perform a little better, but I'm definately not an expert. What tuning frequency do you all recomend for me?
Do you agree that the Seas models better or would perform better in my situation?





Thanks,

Josh

[edjosh23]

Any idea of crossover points?

Should I leave the wr125 full range or chould I have a high pass filter on it so that it and the woofer don't overlap frequancies and have greater spl on those frequencies?

Thanks,

Josh

[Timn8ter]

If you're going to build an actual 3-way speaker the WR125 will need a band pass filter. You could possibly put the WR125 into a sealed 5 liter box and start with ~500 - 600Hz cross from the woofer.

[edjosh23]

Thanks Tim,

Where can I read about bandpass filter? I was thinking about having the wr125 in a small TL ported out the back. The Seas will be vented in probably a 1.5ft^3 box, I might be able to go a little bit bigger depending on how much space I give my wr125.

I found that some have crossed this seas at 300hz
http://home1.stofanet.dk/troels.gravesen/

so how about
Seas L22-RN4X - LP 300hz
wr125S - bandpass 300hz - 5khz
Hi - Vi RT1L - HP 5k

I was thinking tuning the Seas at about 26hz? does that sound like a good tuning frequency?
What should I tune wr125 to? If I'm going to us a XO than I won't build a TL, a sealed would be nice than, I guess. A .2ft^3 sealed enclosure looks like tuning is about 135hz. With such a small enclosure I can probably have a 1.75ft^3 woofer enclosure.

Design wise, should my enclosure be stright up (90 degrees) or tilted back a little (maybe 105 degress)?

Thanks,

Josh

[ShinOBIWAN]

Originally posted by edjosh23
Thanks Tim,

Where can I read about bandpass filter? I was thinking about having the wr125 in a small TL ported out the back. The Seas will be vented in probably a 1.5ft^3 box, I might be able to go a little bit bigger depending on how much space I give my wr125.

I found that some have crossed this seas at 300hz
http://home1.stofanet.dk/troels.gravesen/

so how about
Seas L22-RN4X - LP 300hz
wr125S - bandpass 300hz - 5khz
Hi - Vi RT1L - HP 5k

I was thinking tuning the Seas at about 26hz? does that sound like a good tuning frequency?
What should I tune wr125 to? If I'm going to us a XO than I won't build a TL, a sealed would be nice than, I guess. A .2ft^3 sealed enclosure looks like tuning is about 135hz. With such a small enclosure I can probably have a 1.75ft^3 woofer enclosure.

Design wise, should my enclosure be stright up (90 degrees) or tilted back a little (maybe 105 degress)?

Thanks,

Josh

26hz is fine for the port tune, providing you don't want cinema level subsonics - this is a single 8" afterall. I'm currently building a minimum compromise active 3-way featuring two of the L22-RNX4/P, its a very good driver for the price.

I'd steer you away from porting the mid range, it's going to very possibly ruin your sound by doing so. Sealed is a much better option if your porting the bass, if this was a 2-way design it would be another matter.

It sounds like your first project, so I'd avoid TL's and other fancy loading methods in favour of keeping it simple to give you the best possible chance.