I would be very concerned about using MDF for DJ work. I would take all steps to avoid it. It is not suited for moving around. Spend money on plywood. Metal corners are only delaying the inevitable.
Back to your question. About the only thing you can use if you still plan on MDF is sheet vinyl. That will protect it better than any coating. Truck bed liner is OK but it's not vinyl.
Cal
Back to your question. About the only thing you can use if you still plan on MDF is sheet vinyl. That will protect it better than any coating. Truck bed liner is OK but it's not vinyl.
Cal
I hear ya regarding plywood vs mdf...I'm sure you're right...
But bear in mind that this speaker is only about 12" x 12" x 18", all wood glued with no screws, using tongue and groove joints. This thing will be seriously overbuilt. Not worried. If the cabinet were larger I'd be more concerned.
If it breaks I'll build another one out of plywood and say "damn I should have listened to that guy" . Thanks.
But bear in mind that this speaker is only about 12" x 12" x 18", all wood glued with no screws, using tongue and groove joints. This thing will be seriously overbuilt. Not worried. If the cabinet were larger I'd be more concerned.
If it breaks I'll build another one out of plywood and say "damn I should have listened to that guy" . Thanks.
lunchmoney said:
Your method is actually WEAKER than just butt joints with screws.
MDF is weaker than plywood in every way: shear, tension, compression. It is much weaker than plywood in shear, so when you cut some of it away to make the tongue & groove joint, you will create a weak point right there in the thinner section that will break when dropped.
On second thought (third?), I'm just going to go with the mdf.
I have an mdf sub with a heavy 12" driver that I've transported in and out of my car dozens of times with zero issues.
I think we're imagining drastically different levels of abuse. I will treat this thing the same way I treat my turntables, mixers, and cd players: much love. Haven't messed up a turntable tonearm yet (very common casualty in mobile dj'ing)...this thing will be fine.
However, I do see your point regarding the tongue and groove joints. I will instead use butt joints and 1/4" dowel pins. I hate using wood screws, because they inherently encourage the material to split.
Your concern is extremely valid and was worth a second thought. Thanks again.
I have an mdf sub with a heavy 12" driver that I've transported in and out of my car dozens of times with zero issues.
I think we're imagining drastically different levels of abuse. I will treat this thing the same way I treat my turntables, mixers, and cd players: much love. Haven't messed up a turntable tonearm yet (very common casualty in mobile dj'ing)...this thing will be fine.
However, I do see your point regarding the tongue and groove joints. I will instead use butt joints and 1/4" dowel pins. I hate using wood screws, because they inherently encourage the material to split.
Your concern is extremely valid and was worth a second thought. Thanks again.
drfrink24 said:
No, that is a properly joined edge, more than good enough for home speakers. But this discussion is about trying to make PA equipment with MDF.
drfrink24 said:
There is not one and only "proper" way. Just glue + clamps is good enough for home speakers, and that allows you to have big roundover edges without the router bit cutting through to a biscuit or a screw. If you want gonzo strength, then adding long screws to the mix, predrilled of course, would add substantial strength. Biscuits help it go together, but just do not take credit for them adding significant strength.
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