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Old 13th April 2005, 05:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Andy_A
So you would run a splitter, then? This sounds like it would be a good option, too. Question: Do you think I'd get the same level of performance just running one of the speakers instead of two?
If you are asking me, i'm in the opinion that none sounds better -- i prefer a virtual CC.

dave
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Old 14th April 2005, 12:01 AM   #12
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!!?! I have to put in my 2 cents - 2 drivers series or parallel will have the SAME efficiency (that is ratio of electric power in to acoustic power out) - sensitivity as usually thought of will be greater with the series connection - but less if you happen to have a 'current source' amp as opposed to the 'normal voltage source' amp.
Efficiency does not depend on the number of drivers - if you have 4 drivers then for a given acoustical power output each driver only has to produce a quarter of the power that one driver would but the total power input is the same. Probably distortion from suspension nonlinearities and doppler distortion will be reduced with more drivers

A series resistor will waste power (reduce efficiency and sensitivity) and change the damping (this maybe good or bad depending on the rest of the design) and change the design of the cross over - not good or bad but different.

I'd tend to vote for series, safe for the amp and I hate to waste power - so much easier to create 'good' low power. But it is but one of many design decisions and I bet the amp won't mind to much unless you play things very loud - just the amp designers doing a little CYA, of course maybe the amp really is not happy with 4 ohm loads ...

Bill
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Old 14th April 2005, 12:37 PM   #13
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series or parallel huh, hmmm. I would actually never use series with woofers because they are used in their resonance frequency region. And as we all know the impedance rises at the Fs, so when you would wire e.g. two woofers in series these two woofers have to be EXACTLY the same. A tiny difference in the mass or suspension will change the Fs AND then will change the impedance (drastically at the Fs!). So, power distribution between two series wired woofer will possibly NEVER be equal if the drivers aren't 100% the same. Also, the bassresponse won't be very acccurate that way. Both units won't act as one.

thats my five cents.
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Old 14th April 2005, 10:17 PM   #14
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What did I write! I must of confused myself by talking about a series resistor (to the paralleled drivers) - I meant to say I'd vote for the parallel connection with maybe a resistor, but probably none.

memo to self - think before typing, read before hitting submit!
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Old 22nd August 2016, 07:33 PM   #15
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Default parallel or series speaker connections

There are many amps with four pairs of binding posts. I always thought that meant the amp was designed to power two pairs of stereo speakers, usually in different rooms, at the same time. When playing two pairs of stereo speakers I thought they were in parallel. Does anyone one know if they are in parallel or series?

Some amps even have a speaker selection switch on the front. The switches, I've seen, have three positions: speakers, A, B, or A+B. Again i would like to know if they are in parallel or series. Is there a standard for this type of setup?

I also have a Nakamichi speaker selection switch with leads for connecting to a right and left channel set of amp binding posts. It has connectors for two pairs of stereo speakers, with the typical option A, B, or A+B.

My real question is: I have a pair of stereo speaker in two different rooms and would like to know what method is best, parallel or series. Both pairs are 8ohm.

Thanks,
henry
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Old 22nd August 2016, 07:54 PM   #16
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henry - I think the labeling the rear panel might give a hint - i.e. minimum 8ohms per pair, etc. If two pairs only, likely to be in parallel - where the combinations could get interesting is if three pairs

Which method is "best" very much depends on the system's variables, and don't forget there's only one volume control for all speaker outputs on most amps, so unless you add additional controls to secondary room(s), you won't have independent level controls. If thinking of adding controls to those rooms, the tapped transformer types are probably safest load on the amp.
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Last edited by chrisb; 22nd August 2016 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 22nd August 2016, 08:34 PM   #17
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Thanks for the reply. I also have been considering a remote volume control in one room. It would be between the amp and second pair of speakers. I was thinking of running a pair of cables to a volume control in a 1st floor room. Cables would then go a short distance to the speakers.

I'm only familiar with L pads and autoformers. Are tapped transformers a better alternative? Do tapped transfomers also have an off position? Are they expensive? I would like to minimize number of switches so an off position would eliminate the need for a toggle switch.
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Old 22nd August 2016, 08:50 PM   #18
Sonce is offline Sonce  Macedonia
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A+B amp output is strictly parallel connection. Do not connect two different loudspeakers in series!
L-pad is out of question. Tapped (auto)transformer is the only correct solution. Price depends on the maximum transformer wattage. Off position is easy to make with multi-position selector switch.
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Old 22nd August 2016, 09:05 PM   #19
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Thanks for the clarification. So an autoformer is the same thing as a tapped transformer. I have a top of the line Niles autoformer that is like new. Would that be a good choice? I found a few other brands in the $300+ range and don't want to spend that much.

I also don't have a problem with building one. Does anyone know of a parts list and schematic?
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Last edited by henrylrjr; 22nd August 2016 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 22nd August 2016, 09:57 PM   #20
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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something like this is what I had in mind for a simple control

Atlas Sound AT100D 100W Auto Transformer Speaker Volume Control Decora Style

as they're low voltage, they shouldn't require anything other than a simple plastic mounting bracket
Arlington Industries LVMB1 Single Gang Low Voltage Mounting Bracket New Construction

and of course, don't forget that will only turn the levels down, so if you want truly independent volume controls throughout the installation, a somewhat more elaborate amp and control configuration would be required.
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