Dumb Box Building Questions

[Redeye]

Hi folks.

I'm in the process of designing a couple of pairs of speakers at the moment - one passive pair, one active pair. I know plenty about the acoustics and electronics stuff involved but I don't have so much experience on the woodworking side. I'd be grateful if some of you guys could help me out with a few of the dumb questions I've got :

1. I'm planning on using MDF around 20mm (depending what they've got in B&Q when I go). I was also planning on putting the whole lot together with the glue + screws approach, which I was hoping to do in a way which avoids me needing to clamp while the glue dries. Are there any tips you can offer me on this method?

2. This sounds really dumb, but is there a recommended way to put the 6 panels together ie. which order to put them together, which panels overlap each other in which ways? I guess I should mention that I'm probably going to use a single internal bracing. Does this make life much more complicated?

3. Are there any websites with useful pictures about the actual box construction itself?

I'd really appreciate any advice here. Thanks in advance.

[Pete Mazz]

Screws and glue work well as long as you pre-drill the holes with the appropriate sized bit. Use #8 x 2" coarse thread bugle head wood screws and use a 9/64" drill bit, preferably with a countersink. Regular wood glue is fine as long as your cuts are good.

Panel cuts/assembly is usually:

Fronts and backs are full width and height.
Sides are full height.
Top, bottom and dividers are all inset.

Attach top, bottom and dividers to one side.
Attach the other side.
Attach back.
Attach front.

Baffle can be pre-cut with driver holes or done after assembly and finish, whichever you prefer.

Pete

[Redeye]

Thanks for that Pete - just what I was looking for.

[FrankDIY]

Originally posted by Pete Mazz

Baffle can be pre-cut with driver holes or done after assembly and finish, whichever you prefer.

Pete

I strongly suggest to cut holes before assembly since you will not have to destroy the box if you make an error.

Also, for the speaker hole, you should practice on a piece of crap before cutting the real piece

I am talking from experience here, hehehe

[schizeckinosy]

Originally posted by Redeye
1. I'm planning on using MDF around 20mm (depending what they've got in B&Q when I go). I was also planning on putting the whole lot together with the glue + screws approach, which I was hoping to do in a way which avoids me needing to clamp while the glue dries. Are there any tips you can offer me on this method?

This is how I usually put my boxes together (don't have big clamps), and it works well. What I do is assemble the two pieces that I'm attaching, and sit (carefully!) on the assembly while screwing into the pre-drilled holes. Hold a big square against the joint to keep it alligned properly.

Good luck, Dan

[cocolino]

Just a quick note for all of You not using clamps but the glue and screws approuch:

If You don`t care much about a nice and professional looking finish of Your speakers You may do so but whatever You want do after the box building process - be it spraying or veneering - the srew heads will come through the surface after a while - no matter what and how careful You do to hide them.
Believe me - I made a couple of dozens professional (looking) enclosures in my life already - don`t even think about that You can avoid it though.
The clamp method is still the best in this regards.

[Variac]

Maybe the best thing is to use the screws to assemble the box, then remove them when the glue has set. then fill the holes.

[cocolino]

Maybe the best thing is to use the screws to assemble the box, then remove them when the glue has set. then fill the holes.

Mark:
That`s a good idea but I have tried this one before also. This looks fine some weeks or maybe even two month but the holes will come through sometime finally (I even tried many different materials to close the holes: wood cement, laquer putty, epoxy, wood plugs..... no chance).
That`s particular true when You spray but even with veneer this happens unless You use thick (3-5mm) sawed type veneers. The usual thin (about 1mm and less) sliced veneers will not prevent the holes from coming through.
As I said: don`t even think about it........(if You are not satisfied with something less than perfect - and I know many of You won`t).

[Peter Daniel]

On one occasion I used carpenters glue and finishing nails. The nails were mostly used to keep the panels aligned and heavy weights were put on top to press them to each other.

Since finishing nails are rather thin, the marks from them were negligble (comparing to screws).

[JoeBob]

On a side question, how do you guys do your really nice boxes? I've never checked how the pros do theirs, I just route groves so that they fit together snugly, the glue and clamp, it turns out really nice for the look and I can jump and stomp on the boxes without any harm, so I'm happy. I'm just curious about other methods.